Help needed for my first solo plumbing job

[TomW]

Jaqy - I'd be inclined to try and undo it with a plumbers wrench (it is after all what they were designed for!

They were designed to grip steel pipe or tube, not nuts.

They will do the job though, there can't be many plumbers out there who haven't used a pipe wrench on a particularly gunged up nut. What could you use instead?

 

[Lime]

Jaqy - I'd be inclined to try and undo it with a plumbers wrench (it is after all what they were designed for!

They were designed to grip steel pipe or tube, not nuts.

They will do the job though, there can't be many plumbers out there who haven't used a pipe wrench on a particularly gunged up nut. What could you use instead?

I'd use one of these if I did not have the correct spanner:
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=15115
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=9406
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=9407
(The bigger the better)

However a plumber of the past would have used a proper spanner, either a box, short arm open, slogging or a ring spanner.
http://www.tooled-up.com/MicroCategory.asp?CID=30&SCID=324&MCID=3696

I have never seen an old sink with an original waste fitted that had a mangled or marked nut.
The waste nut is soft brass and easily damaged.
They knew that and it was often on show, cupboards being a more modern kitchen addition.
Most plumbers used a ring spanner rather like the immersion heater spanner of today.

 

[robgil]

i would use a big adjustable my self. stillsons, foot prints , pump wrenches etc etc will be a bit unstable and could result in a sore knuckle, cracked sink or disfigured nut :shock: .

these tools provide pressure in the form of compression squeezing the object needing to be gripped, you dont need compression or grip for this you need pressure to the side of the nut to turn it. if the nut were rounded then you might use one of these tools, but its always less heath robinson if you simply cut the nut off.

edit - jeebus, those slogging spanners look a but hard core for a sink waste lime? i can just imagine putting one of those on the nut then bringing out the lump hammer and wallop! shatter! shriek!

 

[Penners]

I'm going to try lashings of anti-leaking stuff first....but what to use; LS-X, jointing compound, plumbers malt, silicone...?

I suppose there's no harm in trying that - provided you don't mind the hassle of getting it all off again if doesn't work!

Plumber's Mait (although I love the idea of plumber's malt!!) is unlikely to help. It really needs to be compressed within a joint to work. I'd still go with the trusty LS-X. As I said above, mist it with a little water after application, to help it to cure.

 

[MdB]

I would vote against silicone in this application. As you can't get it into the joint it is likely to fail after a short while.

 

[Lime]

edit - jeebus, those slogging spanners look a but hard core for a sink waste lime? i can just imagine putting one of those on the nut then bringing out the lump hammer and wallop! shatter! shriek!

They are similar in shape to one style of old spanner.
I would not recommend any hammering.

 

[robgil]

guys the water in this leak isnt under pressure, chewing gum , super glue, a decent sized bogie even could stop the leak . for reasons of good adhesion i would use what is already there.

 

[citizensmith]

a decent sized bogie even could stop the leak

My 6 year old son has just started a cold. If past experience is anything to go by there will be a considerable supply of the above in this household by next week. What should i charge and how would you like it packaged?

 

[Tom]

Hoorah!!!!! It's done!!!

After a lot of thought, we decided to do away with the original waste and take the whole lot out. The nut wasn't shifting at all and we risked cracking the sink. Given the very small working space and the fragility of the sink, the tool used in the end was.....a Dremel. Now, come on, get yourself off the floor and pull yourself together! Yes, I agree, it's not normally a plumbing tool but it was the gentlest and most controllable method that I could actually get access with. It took some time, a bit of swearing and a lot of patience to eat away at it bit by bit, but it's done and I'm really happy

So, now I have to buy a new waste and get that fitted....should be a bloomin' doddle after that lot!! :lol:

Massive, massive thanks to all who helped. It's been extremely good in broadening my knowledge and a great boost in keeping my confidence going

Here's the pics...

View attachment 2

View attachment 1

 

[FamilyWiggs]

Super news - and well done.

We both learned something; I always thought a plumbers wrench was for doing up nuts and compression fittings (albeit originally for big brass or lead nits). Thanks to Lime for pointing that one out.

 

[Tom]

I always thought a plumbers wrench was for doing up nuts and compression fittings (albeit originally for big brass or lead nits).

Lead nits???? Ouch!!!! :shock: :lol:

 

[MdB]

A Dremel sounds like an ideal tool for that job. It wouldn't be the fastest method but that is probably to its advantage.

Well done.

(remember when you fit the new waste, it is the seal around the bottom that is important.)

 

[Penners]

the tool used in the end was.....a Dremel.

Good choice of tool, Jaqy. I use my little Dremel for all kinds of fiddly jobs, and it's an excellent gizmo, although the dinky little carborundum wheels don't last long!

Yes, fitting the new waste should now be pretty straightforward, provided you do a good job of cleaning off all the old grot. At the risk of sounding like a cracked record, I'll just say again - use a neoprene washer coated on both sides with LS-X underneath the flange of the waste, inside the sink. And, as Rob pointed out, because this sink has an integral overflow channel you should use a slotted waste. Fix this in place with another rubber washer and LS-X above the big fixing nut at the bottom. The underside of the sink waste hole looks to be pretty grotted up (I hope you're keeping up with my technical language), so give it a really good clean and use plenty of LS-X on the rubber washer. Otherwise, when the sink overflows into the overflow channel, you'll get a leak.

 

[Moo]

a neoprene washer coated on both sides with LS-X underneath the flange of the waste

I don't understand a word of that, but it's almost poetic. Perhaps it should be set to music.

 

[philmac1944]

soon to appear on LS-X factor on a TV near you :wink:

 

[Penners]

a neoprene washer coated on both sides with LS-X underneath the flange of the waste

I don't understand a word of that, but it's almost poetic. Perhaps it should be set to music.

Well, I can't think of a family better qualified to do so. I trust my copyright on the lyrics will be observed.

 

[CatherineB]

soon to appear on LS-X factor on a TV near you :wink:

:lol: