A to Z of Period Properties

[JoceAndChris]

All of that very interesting!

I think it's a pity we missed out DOORS. I'd like to know the differences between a Georgian and Victorian door, what is a ledge and braced door, and what door furniture was used when.

EDWARDIAN: 1901-1914, arguably. This beautiful, flower-garden period of our history before the annihilation of the First World War set its stamp on many fine buildings throughout the land, and is characterised by such movements as ART NOUVEAU, and ARTS AND CRAFTS. EDWIN LUTYENS is an architect of this period. Edwardian style is often reminiscent of Georgian and Neo-Classical style; so simpler and less florid than Victorian stuff. I find it hard to tell some Edwardian furniture from Georgian, which is great as the prices are much more reasonable. If you are lucky enough to own an Edwardian house you should be wearing high-necked blouses and skirts with bustles as you sit by the firescreen you've embroidered trimming up a picture hat and wondering which variety of bare root rose to order. Bessy should bring you tea when you ring the bell, this is just about the last decade when servants are de rigeur.

 

[Nigel Watts]

Edward I (reigned 1272 to 1307) stamped his authority on the Welsh, building an impressive network of castles. Confusingly, these are often referred to as EDWARDIAN.

 

[Jon Maine]

Eaves

Responsible for keeping the wall roof junction nice and dry with hopefully enough overhang.

 

[worms]

Edward I (reigned 1272 to 1307)

Ah, Longshanks! Not such a popular figure at this end of the land! Amongst other nefarious deeds, he was in the architectural salvage business, nicking the stone of destiny for use in more modern furniture in London. The stone is now back north, conveniently for this thread, in a period property beginning with 'E'...

 

[MdB]

EEEK! : Sound heard when investigating old electrickary / plumbing / hidden woodwork etc. Usually followed by sudden loss of bank balance.

 

[DaveBrigg]

ESCUTCHEON
Here's your door furniture Joce. From the Latin for 'shield', an escutcheon is a (usually) metal plate around a key hole, door handle or more recently light switch. They range from the hand-wrought Tudor church door metalwork to the Georgian keyhole surrounds on sale in Homebase (styled 'Georgian' because they are mass produced in a former Soviet Republic on the Black Sea)

 

[Jon Maine]

Efflorescence - salts appear on the surface of brickwork in a white dust or crystal formation

 

[Nigel Watts]

ENERGY: Commodity required in boundless quantities to be a serious practising PPUKer. Currently I dont have much and am feeling overawed by the tasks ahead. Or it may just be my normal blues when I have several tax returns to fill in.

 

[Jon Maine]

Edifice: A building, especially one of imposing appearance or size

 

[Nigel Watts]

FENESTRATION: The subject most likely to enrage a PPUKer.

 

[JoceAndChris]

FABRIC, ORIGINAL: what you should always always make every effort to keep when you are doing up your period property.

 

[Jon Maine]

Ferramenta: supporting bars behind leaded lights

 

[DaveBrigg]

FOUNDATIONS
Before the advent of building control, the choice of foundations were at the whim of the builder. A process of trial and error caused some cathedrals to be constructed on huge rafts of stone. A need to save cash and time resulted in other properties being built directly onto the topsoil, with the only preparation carried out being a quick trim with a lawnmower. Even if your house has no foundations, as the owner of a period property you can take comfort from the fact that if it was going to fall down, it probably would have done so by now, and you are safe.
Unless you disturb the ground alongside the wall. Therefore, before lowering outside ground levels, digging French drains or planting daffodils try prodding the base of the wall. If you can poke a metal tent peg into the space below ground where common-sense suggests there should be bricks, it is advisable to leave this area well alone.

 

[Jon Maine]

Flagstones, for..................

 

[Jon Maine]

Floors of course

 

[Jon Maine]

Flues for............

 

[Jon Maine]

Fireplaces too

 

[Jon Maine]

Frost, can adversely effect lime if damp when the frost hits. A source of much debate on this forum

 

[DaveBrigg]

FRENCH DRAINS
One of the most recommended solutions for reducing damp at the base of walls and floors. Putting the word 'French' in front adds a touch of class to what is in effect a ditch filled with gravel. Key things to remember are:
1. The bottom of your french drain should be several inches below the base of the wall
2. It must be properly drained, to prevent it turning into a moat and making the damp worse. If your house is built on sand, the drain may drain without any help. If the soil has more clay you will probably have to add lengths of suitable diameter pipe, drilled with regular spaced holes facing downwards. This will collect water, which will then need to be fed away from the house. Needless to say, drainage is easier if the ground does not slope upwards away from your house.
3. Take care when disturbing the ground at the base of your walls. Unless you are confident about foundations, dig your french drain a little away from the wall, and angle the sides.

 

[Jon Maine]

finger plates