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Oops, my bad. Liberons Black Bison range includes a purportedly water resistant paste available in several colours including Clear.
- Thread starter overlander matt
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overlander matt
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Thanks for that! I had previously bought a tin of Mylands clear wax at the same time as getting the shellac primer. I hope this will be ok - I have a 5L tin! I'll have a test on a corner of the floor shortly. I don't mind filling up the gaps with a couple of applications for the larger/deeper ones first if necessary. I have a bit more caulking and painting to finish today - pushing cotton into ever decreasing gaps.
As for the wax and water compatibility issue, I'm hoping this floor won't see too much water... I noticed that any water dropped on the shellac primed wood (from the normal Karcher window condensation routine) left white spots. Hopefully, the wax will help to prevent this in future, assuming any water is cleared up quickly. I do have a small ensuite that has a wooden step on the way to a tiled floor. I'll no doubt need a different product there whenever I get around to finishing that!
The other finishing jobs in the hall and landing are related to the staircase. I need to clean up and polish the existing spindles, hand rails etc - I cannot face any extensive work on these at the moment and just need to get them looking better. Over the years there has been paint/plaster spilled on sections of the timber and has filled the grain. I don't know how best to remove this. I also have a large gap between the wall and a half spindle that ideally should be flush with the wall. Very open to suggestions for how to tidy this up before I get teh carpet down on the staircase.
Don't mention the kitchen refresh Steve. That is another job on the list to go with the utility following a rogue cider can explosion which stained all four walls... It's admirable that you have completed your task there!!
As for the wax and water compatibility issue, I'm hoping this floor won't see too much water... I noticed that any water dropped on the shellac primed wood (from the normal Karcher window condensation routine) left white spots. Hopefully, the wax will help to prevent this in future, assuming any water is cleared up quickly. I do have a small ensuite that has a wooden step on the way to a tiled floor. I'll no doubt need a different product there whenever I get around to finishing that!
The other finishing jobs in the hall and landing are related to the staircase. I need to clean up and polish the existing spindles, hand rails etc - I cannot face any extensive work on these at the moment and just need to get them looking better. Over the years there has been paint/plaster spilled on sections of the timber and has filled the grain. I don't know how best to remove this. I also have a large gap between the wall and a half spindle that ideally should be flush with the wall. Very open to suggestions for how to tidy this up before I get teh carpet down on the staircase.
Don't mention the kitchen refresh Steve. That is another job on the list to go with the utility following a rogue cider can explosion which stained all four walls... It's admirable that you have completed your task there!!
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As far as the half spindle is concerned theres a right way and an easy way I think. The right way would be to take the spindle out with the aim of inserting a piece of infill timber behind but, given that the half spindle seems to back onto a door architrave and a section of skirting that would be far from simple. The easy way would be to use some decorators masking tape to protect the spindle while isolating it from the abutting plaster and then inject a pressure applied decorators caulk to fill the cavity behind the spindle and to come flush to the plaster. A wet rag wrapped around a finger end to wipe off any excess to tidy the overall join and a little hand-sanding and paint.
Regarding the paint embedded in the grain; I'm assuming that's a the last picture of the header/fascia of the landing. It's possible you may be lucky inasmuch that it appears to be an old coat of an undercoat and gloss paint that someone has previously removed but this may have been applied over an old varnish. If that is correct then you may find that a light coat of paint stripper, applied over a small section at a time and agitated with a fine wire or other stiff bristled brush might shift a lot of it. If, on the other hand it's an emulsion paint then the same method using a little soapy water may do the trick. The moulding at the foot of the header though will probably need the use of a scraper of some kind to get the paint out of the crevice or sand-paper taped over the end of a flat bladed screwdriver or the rounded end of an old broken hacksaw blade. This latter is one of the improvised tools in my little box of odds and ends alongside stolen bits of my grand-daughters crayons..... Oh, nearly forgot to mention; said box also contains a couple of dentist picks - the nasty sharp hooked implement used by some of those unpleasant characters will exploring and removing old fillings - they great for picking out flecks of paint trapped in wood grain.
My cider is all made and stored in an outbuilding to avoid the mess when the odd bottle goes bang but that does present some hazards when the more lively ones are transported over to the house.
Regarding the paint embedded in the grain; I'm assuming that's a the last picture of the header/fascia of the landing. It's possible you may be lucky inasmuch that it appears to be an old coat of an undercoat and gloss paint that someone has previously removed but this may have been applied over an old varnish. If that is correct then you may find that a light coat of paint stripper, applied over a small section at a time and agitated with a fine wire or other stiff bristled brush might shift a lot of it. If, on the other hand it's an emulsion paint then the same method using a little soapy water may do the trick. The moulding at the foot of the header though will probably need the use of a scraper of some kind to get the paint out of the crevice or sand-paper taped over the end of a flat bladed screwdriver or the rounded end of an old broken hacksaw blade. This latter is one of the improvised tools in my little box of odds and ends alongside stolen bits of my grand-daughters crayons..... Oh, nearly forgot to mention; said box also contains a couple of dentist picks - the nasty sharp hooked implement used by some of those unpleasant characters will exploring and removing old fillings - they great for picking out flecks of paint trapped in wood grain.
My cider is all made and stored in an outbuilding to avoid the mess when the odd bottle goes bang but that does present some hazards when the more lively ones are transported over to the house.
overlander matt
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Thanks Steve. I suspect the caulking will be my favoured approach to the spindle on this occasion. I really don't want to mess with the banister too much! There may be a time when this gets addressed in future with the attention it deserves. That is not right now - I have too many indoor jobs that need to be finished before embarking on this.
The marking on the timber is indeed on the photo you have identified. I suspect it is most likely plaster as the ceiling has been skimmed and a metal bead attached. I've got some way to go with the cleaning up of various surfaces before the carpet goes down. I'll look to clean it up and finish the transition between wood and plaster/paint. As luck would have it, I am off to see the dentist tomorrow - failing my ability to convince him to hand over an old pick, I'll have to order one.
As for the cider, external storage seems wise. The damage caused here was remarkable. With dark paint on the walls all will need repainting. The limestone floor tiles were etched too.
The marking on the timber is indeed on the photo you have identified. I suspect it is most likely plaster as the ceiling has been skimmed and a metal bead attached. I've got some way to go with the cleaning up of various surfaces before the carpet goes down. I'll look to clean it up and finish the transition between wood and plaster/paint. As luck would have it, I am off to see the dentist tomorrow - failing my ability to convince him to hand over an old pick, I'll have to order one.
As for the cider, external storage seems wise. The damage caused here was remarkable. With dark paint on the walls all will need repainting. The limestone floor tiles were etched too.
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Soapy water will do the trick with plaster but may produce a white bloom on the woodwork if it penetrates any wax below if left too long. I find that usually the the odd small white bloom can be removed with the application of a little fresh wax but if this fails rubbing the bloom back with some fine wire wool before applying the wax may be needed. A dab of methylated spirit on a soft cloth can also soften any wax or shellac already in place allowing it to be smoothed out to cover the damage.
Sets of Dental Picks can be had for under a tenner from eBay or Amazon... this discussion though has me thinking I might investigate one of those Ultrasonic Tooth cleaners, could be better than my Dremel in some instances.
Re cider damage - my brother tells me that one of his grandsons ended up grounded for a month after trying the Mento in a bottle of Coke trick in has parents conservatory. They don't think he laced the coke with rum first but... the juries still out.
Sets of Dental Picks can be had for under a tenner from eBay or Amazon... this discussion though has me thinking I might investigate one of those Ultrasonic Tooth cleaners, could be better than my Dremel in some instances.
Re cider damage - my brother tells me that one of his grandsons ended up grounded for a month after trying the Mento in a bottle of Coke trick in has parents conservatory. They don't think he laced the coke with rum first but... the juries still out.