tools , budget or ex rental?

[robgil]

no good to me then im afraid , i dont have any central heating.

 

[Penners]

i wanted to employ ms robgil as my grafter in exchange for food , water and a camp bed but she is too pregnant at the moment

Wll, I'm sorry, but you should have thought of that, shouldn't you? After all, she didn't achieve her current status on her own.... :wink:

 

[middi]

I've lost the plot here "ask your wife to do some grafting so she can get pregnant" .I must swapp my scaffold pole DIY contraption and buy a proper grafter as FF described ( sounds like good fun !!)

 

[FamilyWiggs]

Middi - it's my first language and I'm having trouble understanding what's going on!! 8)

 

[Moo]

I was wondering how long it would take for this thread to drift off the subject into general smuttiness.
Interesting that the discussion about boilers is still doggedly focused on technicalities.
Does anyone have any theories as to why this should be?



(Answers on one side of the paper, please.)

 

[FamilyWiggs]

Moo - despite the other thread being mine, I did try valiantly earlier on to derail it with my old boiler in the back of the Landrover post...

 

[robgil]

Some f the budget tools are good value, I often buy second hand hilti tools as hilti have a price capped repair scheme on current models which is economic so I buy a knackered tool on Ebay send it to Hilti and the cost comes in at a third the cost of a new one!!

just got one , its a hilti te 25. i love new toys.

 

[Jon Maine]

Some f the budget tools are good value, I often buy second hand hilti tools as hilti have a price capped repair scheme on current models which is economic so I buy a knackered tool on Ebay send it to Hilti and the cost comes in at a third the cost of a new one!!

just got one , its a hilti te 25. i love new toys.

Enjoy, your toy, try not to get white finger !!

 

[robgil]

i probably wont be able to , it turned out that its not a breaker drill.
the guy who sold it to me though is replacing it with a nice makita drill instead , its a medium duty one so hopefully i will get white finger from that instead.
still it would have been nice to be able to take advantage of hilti's after sales service deal.

 

[AMc]

I toyed with buying an SDS hammer drill with chisels for ages - again to remove concrete screeds and a badly poured slab. In the end I managed perfectly well with a long pry/crowbar, a small lump hammer and a little cold chisel. I'm glad I didn't bother as it would have been too unweildy for most normal drilling tasks.

If you're about to embark on any serious work I would seriously consider a pair of cordless drills - one with hammer and one without that share a common battery and at least 3 batteries. Endless tasks are speeded up by being able to drill a hole then screw in a fixing without having to change bits and adjust the action. Always having a spare charged battery is also a lifesaver. In years of DIY I never expended a battery in a normal job but now on a full time renovation I regularly flatten 1 completely every single day. Cordless tools also come into their own when your sparks cuts the power for hours at a time!

Screwfix have a good range and usually something on offer if you sign up to their email marketing. I'm currently being tempted with a 10% off £50 spend but I don't need anything and couldn't afford it if I did!

 

[Gervase]

One of the best combinations you can get is a cordless drill and an impact driver. Once you've used an impact driver you'll never want to use any other sort of cordless drill/driver; it'll put a four-inch screw into oak one-handed, and will drive screws in or whip them out without burring the heads. I use Makita, but deWalt, Hitachi and Bosch all make them now. Obviously it's not a tool to be used in place of a cabinet maker's turnscrew, but in the right place it's an absolute godsend.

 

[robgil]

i use metabo drills , one of which is cordless and they really do make the job easier. not an impact drill though but still very good as a cordless screw driver. i spent a long time working on abrrett sites as a plumber so although the houses are made from cardboard decent drills were still a god send at times.
the breaker i got is one of these,

http://www.powertoolsuk.co.uk/webcat/details.asp?ProductCode=HM0810T&id=1695

its a none rotary demolition drill but it came for a good price and will be more than adequate do do my breaking for me. ive got a concrete path all the way around the house that will also need broken so i will get my moneys worth out of it , then perhaps sell it on. i can even put a clay spade type bit on it to help me dig the trench for my lpg tank , which will be a nightmare if all i have to use is a spade.

its just a shame it doesnt have a rotary action as well but they cost way more than i can spend at the moment.

 

[Feltwell]

will drive screws in or whip them out without burring the heads.

Gervase, that sounds fantastic. I absolutely hate the way that pozi screws "cam out" when being driven in - the torx design seems so much better, but rarer and more expensive. I was using some phillips-headed masonry screws at the weekend, I must have thrown away more than stayed in - as soon as they started to bite the torque required to drive them meant the bit slipped, as soon as it slipped once they were useless.

In my ignorance I had no idea what an impact driver was for - I assumed it was a more "mechanical" tool for freeing stuck bolts etc, much like the airtools that garages use. So presumably you use the impact driver as you would a normal cordless driver, but it "hammers" slightly as it screws in or out? Or am I completely wrong again???

 

[robgil]

you know guys it doesnt hurt to drill a pilot hole before screwing into hard wood .

 

[Flyfisher]

I've been using these screwdriver bits with serrated points, which are supposed to grip the screwheads better than standard steel bits. I don't pretend this is an exhaustive analysis, but I've not really noticed any 'cam out' problems with spax screws and a standard cordless driver.

I can imagine an impact driver would be good though, particularly for removing stubborn screws. I certainly wouldn't be without my pneumatic impact wrench in the workshop for loosening rusty nuts and bolts on the tractor and mower.

 

[Feltwell]

you know guys it doesnt hurt to drill a pilot hole before screwing into hard wood .

Try screwing Masonry screws into masonry! They work really well - and enable you to fix near the edge of brick, which is why I was using them over normal plugs and screws - but by 'eck they need some effort to get them in! And yes the pilot hole was the right size!!

 

[Penners]

Once you've used an impact driver you'll never want to use any other sort of cordless drill/driver; it'll put a four-inch screw into oak one-handed, and will drive screws in or whip them out without burring the heads.

Gervase - by "an impact driver" do you mean the same thing as a hammer drill? I have a cordless driver/hammer drill, but I've never thought of using the hammer action when screwdriving - only when drilling masonry.

Or is an impact driver a different animal?

 

[Moo]

Thanks for asking that question, Penners. I was wondering just the same thing, but now a proper chap has raised it I feel I can peep above the technical parapet without looking silly.

 

[robgil]

you know guys it doesnt hurt to drill a pilot hole before screwing into hard wood .

Try screwing Masonry screws into masonry! They work really well - and enable you to fix near the edge of brick, which is why I was using them over normal plugs and screws - but by 'eck they need some effort to get them in! And yes the pilot hole was the right size!!

hilti do an excellent fixing for brick etc , drill a hole , pop in the fixing then wallop it with a punch. it spreads barbs i think in the hole so its secure then you can screw threaded bar / bolts etc into the wall.
i used them to hang massive steel risers in the 123 buildings on bankside. http://www.bankside123.co.uk/

 

[Jon Maine]

you know guys it doesnt hurt to drill a pilot hole before screwing into hard wood .

Try screwing Masonry screws into masonry! They work really well - and enable you to fix near the edge of brick, which is why I was using them over normal plugs and screws - but by 'eck they need some effort to get them in! And yes the pilot hole was the right size!!

hilti do an excellent fixing for brick etc , drill a hole , pop in the fixing then wallop it with a punch. it spreads barbs i think in the hole so its secure then you can screw threaded bar / bolts etc into the wall.
i used them to hang massive steel risers in the 123 buildings on bankside. http://www.bankside123.co.uk/

They also do these in stainless steel and a removable variety to which uses a section of rubber getting squashed as you tighten it up to hold the load.