Replacing the dreaded placcy!

[biffvernon]

To fix a window without screws . . . . . .

if you always drill the frame-fixing through a wedge then I can't see how the fixing would exert any significant force on the window frame joints.

Ah, but that implies your wedges are not at the corners, pushing against end grain. With wedges anywhere else the frame deforms inwards making any opening casements or sashes stick. Don't go there.

Btw, that picture of a green rectangle in a black border, posted earlier by MdB and described as molten glass, is actually a piece of mouth-blown cylinder glass set in lead came.

 

[shelli]

Btw, that picture of a green rectangle in a black border, posted earlier by MdB and described as molten glass, is actually a piece of mouth-blown cylinder glass set in lead came.

Phew - I thought it was Kryptonite and you had dastardly plan to destroy Superman !!

 

[Flyfisher]

Ah, but that implies your wedges are not at the corners, pushing against end grain. With wedges anywhere else the frame deforms inwards making any opening casements or sashes stick. Don't go there.

Correct about the wedges not being at the corners, but the frame will only be deformed if non-corner wedges are really hammered in tight (unless it's a very flimsy frame), and they don't need to be really tight because they're only holding the frame in place until the frame-fixings and screwed home.

Is wedge shrinkage a practical concern with wedge-only installations?

 

[skier-hughes]

I presume there's a glue element with expanding foam, as well as friction, but I don't really know as I've never used that method (or seen anyone else use it).

The barn down on the farm has used it, and I've no idea how it works either. Just squirted into the gap. The window didn't seem very solidly fixed when pushed gently!!!

 

[Penners]

I presume there's a glue element with expanding foam

There most certainly is. It's a polyurethane material, and if you've ever tried getting it off your fingers, you'll know how tenacious a glue it is.

You can buy the material in an almost foam-free form as polyurethane glue, for woodworking and many other applications. (Gorilla Glue is one brand). It's incredibly strong and has the advantage of being actually more effective if used in damp conditions. In fact, if the materials to be glued are dry, you're encouraged to mist them with water.

It's not cheap, but I do commend it to anyone who wants a wood (or most other materials) glue for damp conditions. Just be aware that it does still have a slight tendency to foam, so if you don't want your joint pushed apart slightly, cramp the two halves together well during curing.

 

[biffvernon]

Yes, polyurethane glue also has the advantage that it sets quicker than most wood glues. But I hate using it because it always gets onto my fingers and is impossible to remove.
The foam can exert a force great enough to bend a piece of wood as it sets so you have to plan things carefully.

 

[Penners]

polyurethane glue ....always gets onto my fingers and is impossible to remove.

Around birthday time, you need to drop heavy hints for a pair of work gloves.

If you were anyone else I'd suggest disposable latex gloves, but I'm worried this might trigger a bit of environmental finger-wagging. :wink:

 

[chuckey]

Just a "heads up" for any one reading this topic. Traditional victorian vertical sliding sashes have sash weight boxes which are about 3" deep and more or less the width of the side wood work. The windows were fitted from the inside so the hole in the inner brickwork is 6" wider then what you can see. This funny gap normally is squared up with a lath and plaster infill and its outer edge is under the architrave. in this case (change to placcy) some one has sorted out this funny void OR (as in my case) left them in and clad the front wood work with plastic, so the actual window frame sits in the old frame. It does make the window frames smaller but it saves on the enormous amount of making good, removing this wood work and it retains the original internal architrave.
Frank

 

[Penners]

A useful tutorial there on how to replace your traditional wooden sash windows successfully with modern plastic ones.

Hmmm...

 

[SD]

Thankyou everyone for all your useful replies to my DIY window fit query. Oh now I am very tempted to go the DIY route. Regarding BC I believe in getting all the boxes ticked. From experience its definetly worth reducing the number of potential issues that could affect a sale as far as possible. So how closely do BC look at your windows when they come to inspect? Do they have 'testing' methods to guarantee a secure fit or do they just look and say 'Aye its a windae.'. Perhaps I should get the carpenter to fit the larger windows at the front with our 'help' and then do the smaller ones to the back by ourselves. I feel optimistic again that we might be able to afford proper windows and not those nasty milk carton efforts .