Need double-glazing in Lincs

[Lindyboo]

Can anyone recommend a double-glazing company who operate in Lincolnshire (East Lindsey district) - or give me hints on which ones to avoid?

Ta

 

[Nemesis]

Depends what you want - if you want nice windows (oak with DG) try Biff Vernon...

http://www.biffvernon.freeserve.co.uk/oak_works.htm

 

[skier-hughes]

I'd second the Biff recommendation.

 

[biffvernon]

I'll third that. You need someone who lives in East Lindsey.

 

[Nemesis]

Er - like who exactly Biff?

 

[Moreteyne]

What about Everest ?

 

[Nemesis]

Far, far too far away from Lincs.

 

[Moreteyne]

Coldseal ?

 

[Nemesis]

Is that a recommendation or one to avoid?

 

[Lindyboo]

Greetings all

Wood-framed d/g would be out of my range and we need something low maintenance. A bit of the bedroom window fell off yesterday providing unwanted ventilation, so we have to get something done asap.

The local area phone book lists a fairly small number of d/g firms and of course it's pot luck choosing one. Had d/g installed at the previous house and was ripped off (learned from that one) so am hoping to get a better deal. Any tips on how to get a good deal from a d/g salesmen would be welcome, too!

TTFN

 

[MdB]

When you say d/g I assume you mean uPVC d/g. I think you will find most people here will suggest that this is not the best option (some people will more than just suggest...)

There are various companies that will refurbish old windows to look like new at costs comparible or cheaper the uPVC so that is an area to look at.

Good quality oak windows (like Biffs) are very low maintainance if left unpainted (do I remember that right Biff?) and will have a lifetime many times that of uPVC.

Both of these options will also look a lot better than plastic.

 

[Nemesis]

How do you know wood framed would be out of your range? And oak lasts for well, centuries! (probably longer than the DG will.) Linseed oil paint if you wish to have them painted is supposed to last well too.

You aren't going to go for placcy surely? It doesn't last, environmentally it's nasty, looks crap...

Have a chat at least with Biff. He makes very nice windows. I am sitting next to one as I type. He's also a nice guy and worth ringing.

 

[biffvernon]

Plastic windows are, of course, completely evil and never worth getting under any circumstances. However, if you are determined to sup with the devil, then go to Spire Window Systems, Tattershall Road on the Fairfield Industrial Estate, Louth. They might not be the cheapest but they are probably the best firm locally. They make all my double glazed units for me.

 

[Lindyboo]

Well, I confess I'm making an assumption about the cost of oak d/g against upvc. I also confess I'm not comfortable about the environmental aspects of upvc, but in my state of grace about oak d/g (and other woods used for the same purpose) I'm concerned that I'll end up back at square one, ie, rotting windows which swell and shrink and have to be coated every couple of years with some sort of protection (paint, oil or whatever). Aesthetically, as the cottage is red brick, I feel that white paintwork would look better than a natural wood colour, which means that the oak would have to be painted from time to time, which wouldn't be the case with upvc.

How does the cost of oak d/g compare with upvc - any ball-park figures?

Ta

 

[Nemesis]

How long does uPVC last?

Not long I think - and looks terrible in a period building! It really isn't the long lasting low maintenance material those flogging it would have you believe I fear.

Actually, weathered oak looks wonderful with red brick, and linseed oil paint last many years I understand before requiring recoating.

No idea about costs, never enquired about uPVC (not cheap I suspect) but ask Biff.

My windows (timber) mostly have been in place for many, many decades. The only ones which required replacing were nasty modern ones made with poor quality timber.

 

[Roger H]

M#gnet do timber casement double glazed windows that aren't that expensive. They do proper sashes, side hung 'cottage' types off the shelf. FSC timber on the softwoods with hardwood option for 20% more. The off the shelf ones I got were dead-ringers for the chunky timber in my existing openings. Still sitting uninserted in the garage though so can't vouch for their long term performance. Whatever goes in, I would tend to set it back in the brickwork to match existing. Anything pushed to the face of the building looks especially wrong.

Roger

 

[rogerh]

My wooden windows are still going after two hundred and fifty years. Personally I wouldn't bother with double-glazing (and for uPVC ones the payback time is longer than they're likely to last), although unless you're listed you may not have the choice. If you use a linseed oil paint, though, (e.g. Holkham's http://www.holkham.co.uk/linseedpaints/why.html) they shouldn't need painting more than every seven years or so.

(Another Roger H)

 

[rogerh]

By the way, are you sure your existing window is beyond repair? It's rare for any window to be that far gone and you may find it's cheaper to get a joiner to fix what's already there.

 

[biffvernon]

Anything pushed to the face of the building looks especially wrong.

That rather depends on the building. Flush windows were the norm until 1666 in London and much later elsewhere. Timber framed buildings usually have flush set windows.

Personally I wouldn't bother with double-glazing (and for uPVC ones the payback time is longer than they're likely to last), although unless you're listed you may not have the choice.

You will have to comply with Part L of the Building Regs (unless listed or in a Conservation area), which almost certainly makes double glazing a must. If you are putting in a new window anyway, then the payback time of double as opposed to single glazing is very quick.

If you use a linseed oil paint, though, (e.g. Holkham's http://www.holkham.co.uk/linseedpaints/why.html) they shouldn't need painting more than every seven years or so.

Albacks, the Swedish company that makes the Holkham Linseed Paint, say that after 7 years a coat of linseed oil should be applied and only after a further 7years should a single coat of paint be required. No stripping, sanding, flaking etc, just a 14 year minimal maintenance cycle. (Of course you can get a paint designed to coat uPVC when it goes all yellow and horrid.)

How does the cost of oak d/g compare with upvc - any ball-park figures?

It depends on the size and complexity. You really ought to ask for a quote, though he'll probably say he's busy for the next few months.

 

[Lindyboo]

By the way, are you sure your existing window is beyond repair? It's rare for any window to be that far gone and you may find it's cheaper to get a joiner to fix what's already there.

The existing windows are long beyond their lifespan. All of them are rotten from the sill up to about 6 inches or so - a gentle poke with a screwdriver will go right through and even sanding brings out chunks. The opening windows are also rotten as I discovered yesterday when a corner of one fell off. I think they were installed in the 70s - cheapo mock-Georgian style (in a Victorian cottage). Also the glazing has been spoiled by careless use of a sander which has left severe scuffing on the glass of many panes.

And I haven't yet mentioned the chimney breast which is partly constructed out of polystyrene ...

L