Nemesis
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I don't know about 'not addressing the market need'.. it's all there is in some parts of the country.
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Geoff Flegg
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Rhian said:
Nemesis
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http://www.diysashwindow.co.uk/
I have come across others but these have been used and recommended by people who post here.
There's this place too:
http://www.reddiseals.co.uk/acatalog/Sash_Repair_Kit.html?referrer=adwords&keywords=sash_window_repair
I have come across others but these have been used and recommended by people who post here.
There's this place too:
http://www.reddiseals.co.uk/acatalog/Sash_Repair_Kit.html?referrer=adwords&keywords=sash_window_repair
plumbers mate
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>>Most sash windows these days are painted white, their UPVC insert is white and same shape as a parting bead and other than the addition of the pile strip it will look from a distance the same as the original.
Because I don't like white paint, my Ventrolla beading will be ivory (cream). The uvpc bit on the inside will be covered by curtains anyhow.
It's all better than the alternative - eg rattling windows, a local chippy (are there any in this area? think not!) and bad work.
Anyhow - the deposit has been paid.
Because I don't like white paint, my Ventrolla beading will be ivory (cream). The uvpc bit on the inside will be covered by curtains anyhow.
It's all better than the alternative - eg rattling windows, a local chippy (are there any in this area? think not!) and bad work.
Anyhow - the deposit has been paid.
wobs
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I've used diysashwindow, and found they do a good kit, with most things you need and excellent instructions. If its your first attempt at doing sashes, then I would reccomend these.
I used these for my second window:
http://www.heritagesashwindow.co.uk/sashwindowsrepairing.htm
Much the same kit apart from no routing tool or mastic gooey stuff, or spare add-on weights. Cheaper kit as a result, but better if you're not on your first window. Also, some of the wood comes pre primed if you want.
Mighton and Reddiseals I would use for fittings and Reddiseals if I needed spare beading.
I note that the Reddiseal kit uses natural cord, which can attrach dirt more than that nylon stuff that the other two kit providers use.
My experience and opinions for what they're worth.
I used these for my second window:
http://www.heritagesashwindow.co.uk/sashwindowsrepairing.htm
Much the same kit apart from no routing tool or mastic gooey stuff, or spare add-on weights. Cheaper kit as a result, but better if you're not on your first window. Also, some of the wood comes pre primed if you want.
Mighton and Reddiseals I would use for fittings and Reddiseals if I needed spare beading.
I note that the Reddiseal kit uses natural cord, which can attrach dirt more than that nylon stuff that the other two kit providers use.
My experience and opinions for what they're worth.
bournonite
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Gawd....
Thats more than they would cost to replace with new timber ones! I can have new sashes made by our carpentry workshop which would cost a client about £500 a piece - obviously only a general idea there - they could be big or small, but we find that size of window is almost irrelevant to cost - its the work involved that costs, not the minimal amounts of wood.
Thats more than they would cost to replace with new timber ones! I can have new sashes made by our carpentry workshop which would cost a client about £500 a piece - obviously only a general idea there - they could be big or small, but we find that size of window is almost irrelevant to cost - its the work involved that costs, not the minimal amounts of wood.
Nemesis
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But - better to retain and repair...
thiambal
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Plus, the timber in new softwood windows is unlikely to be anything like the quality and durability of the originals
bournonite
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Um....
Who said the timber was inferior? Softwood is softwood. The old boys didnt have the preservatives we have to hand these days, so I think even modern softwood, properly treated, will last longer, so long as (Biff will jump in here...!) it is properly teated with appropriate materials. We either use oiled oak or treated softwood - either are usually better than original thank-you. We are professionals who take a pride in what we do, and want our clients to enjouy the benefits of such - I like to think that a house we've restored will last for another 100 years without significant work.....
Who said the timber was inferior? Softwood is softwood. The old boys didnt have the preservatives we have to hand these days, so I think even modern softwood, properly treated, will last longer, so long as (Biff will jump in here...!) it is properly teated with appropriate materials. We either use oiled oak or treated softwood - either are usually better than original thank-you. We are professionals who take a pride in what we do, and want our clients to enjouy the benefits of such - I like to think that a house we've restored will last for another 100 years without significant work.....
I'm with thiambal on the quality of softwood used in old windows as compared with the quality of most modern ones.
Yeah, it's possible to buy good quality softwood, the stuff loosely referred to as redwood, but generally you get poorer stuff - especially if you buy mass produced treated windows.
Yeah, it's possible to buy good quality softwood, the stuff loosely referred to as redwood, but generally you get poorer stuff - especially if you buy mass produced treated windows.
Nemesis
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The chemicals used in the treatments aren't too good for the environment either.
Conservation wise - far better to retain as much historic fabric as possible and repair rather than throw all history in a skip and replace. Most windows are repairable - it's finding someone willing to do the job that's the hard part.
Conservation wise - far better to retain as much historic fabric as possible and repair rather than throw all history in a skip and replace. Most windows are repairable - it's finding someone willing to do the job that's the hard part.
gsport george
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Is draught proofing really worthwhile anyway?
We seem to have the windows opne a crack for most of the year anyway to Supplement the "draughts" round the edges of all the sashes... If we draught proffed them I think we would simply end up having to open them a bit wider. Surely it is better to have a gentle leakage all round the sash than make all this effort only to end up having to open them a crack to get fresh air?
G.
We seem to have the windows opne a crack for most of the year anyway to Supplement the "draughts" round the edges of all the sashes... If we draught proffed them I think we would simply end up having to open them a bit wider. Surely it is better to have a gentle leakage all round the sash than make all this effort only to end up having to open them a crack to get fresh air?
G.
Nemesis
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When winter comes, I stuff loo paper into most of the gaps, leaving out where the sash rails meet in the middle. That removes most draughts and gives some ventilation.
thiambal
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True, and maybe darftproofing is not so important for those of us who like a healthily cold house for the witner.
However, as most people like to heat their houses to near tropical conditions these days - there is no point them losing half the heat through drafty windows - and draft proofing is better than ripping them out and putting UPVC in.
I have found that draftproofing does reduce the rattling a fair bit, even when open
However, as most people like to heat their houses to near tropical conditions these days - there is no point them losing half the heat through drafty windows - and draft proofing is better than ripping them out and putting UPVC in.
I have found that draftproofing does reduce the rattling a fair bit, even when open
Nemesis
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Ours thankfully don't rattle!
plumbers mate
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There is no way I could ever DIY my windows - I'm an OAP now, have a bad back and can not work on ladders or steps. And I'd be doing the job solo. Two of the windows have sashes which are getting on for 800mms x 800mms so are a bit heavy.
The only sash window firm I could find for the NE only covered 100miles area which didn't quite reach Tyneside.
The other firms were all too far away.
So if it was a choice between Ventrolla or replacement plastic windows, which would you choose?
The only sash window firm I could find for the NE only covered 100miles area which didn't quite reach Tyneside.
The other firms were all too far away.
So if it was a choice between Ventrolla or replacement plastic windows, which would you choose?
thiambal
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Depending on what you need done - you do not really need a specialist sash window firm.
You need a a decent carpenter who is confident in working with sash windows -and it helps if he knows a decent joiner who can make new parts if anything cannot be saved.
If he is a proper carpenter who has served his apprenticeship etc than he is certainly more competent than than the chap who visited us from Ventrolla. What is more you can discuss the work and get done what you want - rather than having to give in to the standard Ventrolla way.
This is what we did and it cost us £700 rather than the £2500 that Ventrolla wanted. I did all the painting myself which would obviously have cost more - but Ventrolla will not do anything more than prime anyway.
If it really does come down to a choice between UPVC and Ventrolla - then the only answer you are likely to get here is Ventrolla - because at least you are rescuing the windows.
However, and although I will get shot a dawn for saying so - if you cannot use a ladder - are you going to be able to paint and maintain the windows after Ventrolla's work or in the future? If not - can you afford to pay someone to do the work? Ventrolla is an expensive system to use if the window then rot because of lack of maintainence.
You need a a decent carpenter who is confident in working with sash windows -and it helps if he knows a decent joiner who can make new parts if anything cannot be saved.
If he is a proper carpenter who has served his apprenticeship etc than he is certainly more competent than than the chap who visited us from Ventrolla. What is more you can discuss the work and get done what you want - rather than having to give in to the standard Ventrolla way.
This is what we did and it cost us £700 rather than the £2500 that Ventrolla wanted. I did all the painting myself which would obviously have cost more - but Ventrolla will not do anything more than prime anyway.
If it really does come down to a choice between UPVC and Ventrolla - then the only answer you are likely to get here is Ventrolla - because at least you are rescuing the windows.
However, and although I will get shot a dawn for saying so - if you cannot use a ladder - are you going to be able to paint and maintain the windows after Ventrolla's work or in the future? If not - can you afford to pay someone to do the work? Ventrolla is an expensive system to use if the window then rot because of lack of maintainence.
thiambal
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Alternatively - I have just put Sash Window and Tyneside into http://www.yell.co.uk and it has come up with half a dozen firms that advertise rennovation work on sash windows based in - durham, gateshead, barnard castle, middlesborough, blythe, bedlington.
Have you explored all options?
Have you explored all options?
bournonite
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Good idea thiambal...
Nemesis.... you seem to forget most of the old wood is soaked in a liberal bucket of lead paint!!!!!!!!
I'll have to get the safety stuff on the lastest timber treatments - the chemicals used aren't that 'orrible - at the local timber yard he's using copper compounds - I'll ask what they are - but when we recently did a health and saftety check on treated timber, we were told it wasnt toxic enough to warrant wearing gloves when handling..
Nemesis.... you seem to forget most of the old wood is soaked in a liberal bucket of lead paint!!!!!!!!
I'll have to get the safety stuff on the lastest timber treatments - the chemicals used aren't that 'orrible - at the local timber yard he's using copper compounds - I'll ask what they are - but when we recently did a health and saftety check on treated timber, we were told it wasnt toxic enough to warrant wearing gloves when handling..
Nemesis
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It is still far better to retain and repair than to rip out and replace.
I haven't forgotten about lead paint either, but removal with care isn't too dangerous, nor in fact is leaving it in situ...
I still am not too convinced about the chemicals, the less we use them the better really.
http://www.helm.org.uk/upload/pdf/Timber%20Sash%20Windows_1997.pdf
http://www.spab.org.uk/publications_Q&A_timberwindows.html
I haven't forgotten about lead paint either, but removal with care isn't too dangerous, nor in fact is leaving it in situ...
I still am not too convinced about the chemicals, the less we use them the better really.
http://www.helm.org.uk/upload/pdf/Timber%20Sash%20Windows_1997.pdf
http://www.spab.org.uk/publications_Q&A_timberwindows.html