What to do about cottage door?

[pineapple]

Sorry for the late reply.
I experimented with photographs but it was difficult getting a pic that properly showed the issues. I had another locksmith come out. He said the lock was an early Yale circa 1940s. Anyhow he sorted the problem of the snib locking when I shut the door behind me by removing the snib! He said the door was probably a re-appropriated barn door and it was too thin for a modern lock. However he said this could be got round by fixing a new lock onto an extra layer of wood. I don't know whether it is worth the hassle given the unwanted ventilation issues. I'll have a look at the tape link. I did try some plastic tape which was supposed to be self stick - but it doesn't stick.

 

[MikeG]

Honestly, if you showed us some photos we'd advise on how to deal with the "ventilation issues". None of this stuff is difficult.

 

[88v8]

I'll have a look at the tape link. I did try some plastic tape which was supposed to be self stick - but it doesn't stick.

That tape is very sticky. Clean the surface with meths before you start, and allow to dry just long enough to drink a glass of dry sherry.

A tip from several years of use: The tape expands. It can expand a lot. The thicker tapes can end up looking like a bouncy castle. If you have a 4mm gap* do not think it will seal better with a 6mm tape, or you will never get the door shut.
The sizes given are for constructional joints, not for draughtproofing. See here http://www.affixit.co.uk/Expanding-Foam-Tape/Seal-Joints-1-4mm/Expanding-Foam-TapeBR1-4mm-JointsBR10mm-Width.Html?search_in_description=1&zenid=f29baa6ad7102bf8004caa49930f45da&keyword=expanding&cPath=74 where it says down the page that 4mmm tape expands to 9mm, this is really what it will do if left to its own devices, as when the door is left open during the summer.
Even for an 8mm gap I would use that size, for draughtproofing it will be just fine.
After you fit it you may think huh! because it doesn't expand; don't worry, the initial expansion can take a day or so, but after that it will rebound immediately, and it does a very good job of sealing uneven gaps which a normal hardware shop seal does not do.

At the bottom of the door bear in mind the tape is soft and does not care to be walked on. If you have a bottom draught, use a door snake.

Yes, thicken up the door to take a lock. If the thickening is done with a proper piece of wood, not ply, and the edges bevelled off with a chisel, when painted it can look suitably rustic.

Ivor

*apologies for the foreign measurements

 

[Cubist]

Hi Pineapple,

Did you ever get a solution to this door problem?

Cheers.

 

[pineapple]

Hey folks an update!
Not got the draught sorted yet but yet another issue was that if I wanted the door to shut properly I had to lift the door a bit so that the catch would meet with the keep (not sure if that's the right word). It seems the door has dropped over time. One solution would be to move the keep but it is old and well embedded into the door frame.
I mentioned it to the locksmiths who visited and they all scratched their heads. :roll:
Then I told the couple who will be fitting my kitchen. Door lifted off, a couple of washers added to the hinge, sorted.
Just started painting it. When that's done will try the draught proofing suggestion.

 

[Penners]

So far as I'm able to see from the photos, I think it's possible that the problems with that door could be largely rectified by moving or fitting new butts. That is, the planted-on strips around the frame that the door closes against (or should!).

You'll probably find that these are nailed or pinned on and should be removable by carefully prising them off. Then remove the lock box from the frame. You should now find that you can close the door more deeply into the frame (turning the handle of the lock to withdraw the tang if necessary), thus closing off the gaps. Once you've found the optimum closed position, replace the butts (if the old ones were damaged fit new ones) so that they are snug up against the door. Leave space for draught strips if you want to.

Now re-engineer the position of the box, if necessary by sinking it deeper into the frame, so that it holds the door appropriately.

If, instead off closing on to planted-on butts, the door closes on to a rebate cut into the frame, all of the above suggestions are completely useless!