Penners
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- 17,294
- Location
- Suffolk, England
I've certainly made them from birch ply, FF, although it was some years ago and I'm relying on a fallible memory for the thickness of the feathers. If you find that your feathers are just too rigid, slim them down a bit. They don't have to flex by very much to be effective. You can also use ordinary timber, but in my experience the grain makes it more likely that the feathers will snap.Flyfisher said:Interesting suggestion about the DIY feather springs Penners, I wouldn't have thought ply would be springy enough because of the ways the grain of the various layers are arranged. Perhaps birch ply is different somehow? I've got plenty of 18mm WBP ply so perhaps I'll give that a go.
For moulding, a router table is a good compromise against the cost of a spindle moulder. However, with the right diameter of cutter block a spindle will give you a higher tip speed, hence a smoother finish. When I used to use a spindle moulder you could still buy unserrated clamp-type Whitehill blocks, which allowed you to fit your own cutters, ground out of high-speed steel. These could be honed to a much better edge than tungsten carbide. However, I don't know whether this type of block is still permitted.