uPVC windows not always a bad thing.

[biffvernon]

Putty lamp in action at SPAB meeting last year:

 

[skier-hughes]

 

[skier-hughes]

So is there any ideal way to cut glass.....

I bought a diamond tipped glass cutter.
I marked where I wanted to cut my glass
I dipped cutter in oil.
I made one good mark acros the glass.
I try to break it, as per instruction sheet which say to hold each side and break - fail
I put glass on wood and the bit that needs to brerak off overhangs, try to break it, can't, hit it gently with wood, won't break, whack it with wood it breaks, but goes any which way.

Try again, make a deeper cut with cutter, if I can and it still breaks anywhere it likes.

Funnily enough, if I drop the glass into the broken glass bag it splinters and breaks with much ease, but when I'm trying to break along this line it just won't go.

The glass is 24" pieces that have broken and I'm trying to tidy up for my greenhouse, instead of just going out and buying new ones. Though considering so far I have cut 11 pieces, some twice, and not got it right yet I'm going to have to buy a lot more than I hoped for.

Glass is 3mm, so not very thick.

Do you think it is just the quality of the greenhouse glass is poor and so breaks anywhere?

I don't think I should scribe the line more than once should I? As I don't expect it'll run true for a second mark.

Graham

 

[NT]

heat lamps arent hard to make. Simplest is a linear halogen lamp on a dimmer.

If you want one twice as long, 2 linear halogen lights fixed together end to end, put 110v lamps in and wire them in series or use 240v lamps in poarallel. Add dimmer. From the colour above it looks like 240v lamps in series may be the best option to get nearest the right temp without knob twiddling.


NT

 

[Gervase]

I find with glass that a second scribing guarantees failure! You just have to be very firm and confident with your first scribing. I put a bit of stirling board underneath and another one on top and press down on it firmly and sharply with my palms, and that seems to do the trick. Most times, at any rate!

 

[Penners]

Huh! Define "most"!

 

[skier-hughes]

1 in 20 :lol:

 

[Gervase]

Cynic! Probably eight of of 10.

 

[Penners]

Wow - you're a glass-cutting God!

 

[inwood]

I've got a useful tile cutter with a diamond tipped blade - can glass be cut on this?

It certainly flies through porcelain and ceramic tiles.

 

[Geoff Flegg]

I've got a useful tile cutter with a diamond tipped blade - can glass be cut on this?

It certainly flies through porcelain and ceramic tiles.

I have one too, and whilst I haven't cut sheet glass with it, I have cut small glass tiles.

It worked OK, but there was some chipping on the edge it cut - more so than you'd get with a normal glass cutter.

 

[Penners]

I've got a useful tile cutter with a diamond tipped blade - can glass be cut on this?

There's one way to find out! :wink:

Do post back your results, please.

 

[Andrew Bodenham]

So is there any ideal way to cut glass.....

I bought a diamond tipped glass cutter.
I marked where I wanted to cut my glass
I dipped cutter in oil.
I made one good mark acros the glass.
I try to break it, as per instruction sheet which say to hold each side and break - fail
I put glass on wood and the bit that needs to brerak off overhangs, try to break it, can't, hit it gently with wood, won't break, whack it with wood it breaks, but goes any which way.

Try again, make a deeper cut with cutter, if I can and it still breaks anywhere it likes.

Funnily enough, if I drop the glass into the broken glass bag it splinters and breaks with much ease, but when I'm trying to break along this line it just won't go.

The glass is 24" pieces that have broken and I'm trying to tidy up for my greenhouse, instead of just going out and buying new ones. Though considering so far I have cut 11 pieces, some twice, and not got it right yet I'm going to have to buy a lot more than I hoped for.

Glass is 3mm, so not very thick.

Do you think it is just the quality of the greenhouse glass is poor and so breaks anywhere?

I don't think I should scribe the line more than once should I? As I don't expect it'll run true for a second mark.

Graham

Horticultural glass is good to practice on. After a bit of practice I can now get an accurate cut about 95% of the time. Here's how:

1. Work on a clean flat surface, e.g. thick ply, chipboard etc, ideally with a slightly soft layer on top, e.g. card, thick paper, non-slip matting.

2. A good glass cutter - I have an oil-filled wheel type cutter that I got from Axminster.

3. Ensure glass is clean along the cut line. This preserves the edge on your wheel.

4. Make ONE cut using steady but not hard pressure, steady speed - as though drawing a line with a pencil. Use a straightedge or ply / MDF template for curves.

5. Lift the glass and tap along the underside of the line with the ball end of the cutter - most cutters have a round, weighted end for this purpose. You can see the cut propagating through the glass as you do this.

6. When you have tapped all along the line the two pieces will usually separate. Occasionally it may be necessary to gently flex the glass to complete the cut.

Im my experience old glass (e.g. salvaged from old windows) is much easier to cut (less tough) but can be a little erratic, especially if the surface is not cleaned first or has scratches.

If you're having problems with new glass then you probably need a new wheel in your cutter. I haven't tried the diamond type - the pro's at the glass merchants use the steel wheel type and that's good enough for me.

 

[skier-hughes]

Ok, as soon as the rain stops I'll give those ideas a go.

Graham

 

[Penners]

Ok, as soon as the rain stops I'll give those ideas a go

Can you afford to wait that long?!!

 

[skier-hughes]

Saves getting the hose pipe out for the plants in the greenhouse, no glass, self watering greenhouse!!!!