Treating Wooden Beams

[Hannah]

We are in the process of having all our interior beams sandblasted.

Could someone please recommend the best way to treat the beams once completed?

Many Thanks for all your assistance this year - & Merry Christmas.

 

[Mark]

Why on earth are you sandblasting the beams ?

 

[Moo]

Because their builder told them that it was the best way to get rid of the paint. And we're all agreed that builders know best, aren't we?

 

[Tom]

We had all our beams sandblasted but they were done by a restoration company who used a very, very fine sand and literally 'flashed' over them. They look beautiful now...still have black staining from a previous house fire in the kitchen, still have the little black marks made by nails etc. and still have the carpenter's and witch marks beautifully preserved *And* they don't look like driftwood!! If done by the right people, taking the neccessary care, it *can* be successful but, like many of you, I would stress the importance of finding the *right* people. The first guy I had round when we were getting quotes told me very proudly how he could 'get rid of all the dirt and have them looking like new in no time' !! :shock: :shock: I showed him the way out very sharpish!!!

Jaqy

 

[Hannah]

Yes, we are using a specialist restoration company and have checked all their references and seen previous jobs.

We tried using products recommended by Strippers but we were not getting the desired result (or were... but only after leaving for 5 days and removing and scrubbing for the same time - hence only one beam completed in 10 days and 100 more to go!).

Sandblasting was the final option - and we have spent two months finding the right person for the job.

 

[Tom]

Hannah, that's good news When we had ours done, they did a small area first, let the dust settle, then we went in to see whether we wanted it done more or all at the same amount. Get your guys to do the same for you. And don't forget to share your pics with us afterwards!!

Jaqy

 

[Andrew Bodenham]

To answer your original query; I've seen various things in tins applied to stripped / sanded woodwork, with varying degrees of success. Purists might say that the correct finish is no finish, but you may feel that your newly stripped woodwork looks rather dry and dusty, and needs some finishing to define the surface and bring out a little colour.
My goo of choice at the moment is Polyx waxoil by OSMO, available in satin or matt. Goes on nicely, dries overnight, no heavy build-up, looks great, excellent coverage. I've used it for floors, furniture, joinery and been really pleased with the results. One coat woud probably do for your application.
No connection with the company, before you ask!

 

[biffvernon]

Yes, that's nice stuff. You might also consider just using linseed oil. The Swedish oil that Holkham Paints sell is much more expensive than that from the DIY sheds and vastly superior.

A dusty, woodworm infested yet characterful beam in a renovated cottage rejuvenated with a coat of raw linseed oil.

 

[Gervase]

At the risk of being a heretic, I get my linseed oil from the local farmers' co-op, where it's sold as a feed additive for horses in five-litre containers. Thus it works out about three quid a litre and doesn't incur VAT. It's raw, unboiled linseed oil, but works a treat in limewash and for priming woodwork.

 

[biffvernon]

What colour is it, Gervase?

 

[Hannah]

Thanks for all your advise.

The renovation company have already stripped half of one beam as a tester for us and although it looks great it does look a bit dry. Seems like linseed oil is the best way to go - the beam in the picture looks great colour.

 

[Gervase]

What colour is it, Gervase?

It's a pale, greenish-yellow - hay coloured rather than straw-coloured. Smells lovely.

 

[Hannah]

Any tips on application for such a large job - At the risk of sounding very uneducated, would it be possible to spray? and then wipe off the excess?

 

[tumbledown]

I tried using linseed oil on some of my beams, but it seemed to darken them and save a bit of a shinny finish. However, I used boiled linseed oil rather than raw - maybe this was the reason?

On others I tried liquid beeswax thinned with while spirit. I found this didn't darken the wood and gave a more matt finish. In any case, both methods got rid of the dry and dusty look.

 

[biffvernon]

It's a pale, greenish-yellow - hay coloured rather than straw-coloured. Smells lovely.

Ah - that's the thing. Much of the linseed oil you find in builders' merchants is rather dark brown. It's like different types of olive oil, there's the first cold pressing and then there's the dregs that you wouldn't want to feed to your horse.

 

[andrew gayton]

raw is best; it will soak in before drying whereas boiled will tend to dry on the surface forming a 'skin'..... due to the dryers in the boiled.

 

[Penners]

I've tried raw linseed oil and I've tried beeswax/turpentine. Frankly there's not a great deal of difference in the look of the finish - and they both smell great (to me, anyway).

I should get hold of a little of each and do a small test area to see which you prefer.

 

[skier-hughes]

I've used linseed oil on a variety of oak beams and it is always a different colour, age of the wood, how pervious it is etc all seem to have a bearing. My wood varies from a nice deep colour to nearly black on an old fence post brough in, dried and used as a small lintel.

Graham

 

[middi]

The only advantage in using pure bees wax mixed with turpentine as opposed to linseed oil is that the wood will remain completely neutral colour and it is best for repelling dust.

I would recommend it for interior oak beam use over linseed oil.

The reason for using turpentine with wax is solely to aid application with a brush on difficult pitted beams, and best applied as a "warm" mixture.

Totally useless for external work.


I purchased a 5 gall. tub from a bee kepper at a craft fair stool a few years ago, (I still have a bit left).

Once the beams are cleaned the result is stunning.

If you use pure wax you are more or less stuck with it, as nothing else will stick to it, exept more wax.

 

[Hannah]

Thanks for all the tips. We will try both on a small section and see which comes out best.
Still after some advise for application if anyone can help?