Strip old windows of modern paint?

[JoceAndChris]

That sounds good and that is exactly what the man at Womersley's said on the telephone today. Thanks!

 

[FamilyWiggs]

following a recommendation on here I put this stuff up:-

http://www.lindab.co.uk/dokumenter/ARC0904_12pp rainline.pdf

It's very good, much better than plastic. I ordered it through my local Travis Perkins.

This looks very interesting Feltwell. How does it look in the flesh and what are the costs like?

 

[Penners]

How does it look in the flesh...?

Probably the same as it does with your clothes on.



:lol: :lol: :lol:




On second thoughts: :roll: :roll: :roll:

 

[FamilyWiggs]

:shock: :shock: :shock:

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[johnandrew]

I wouldn't bother with plastic guttering personally. It's brittle, it fades, it creaks like mad when it expands and contracts (which mine did every time the sun came out or in again, literally!) and if you put a ladder against it you risk breaking it.

When replacing my roof, I put cast iron up as per the original but I have 2 dormer windows that are only accessible by spending a small fortune on scaffolding. Wanting something as maintenance free and durable as possible, following a recommendation on here I put this stuff up:-

http://www.lindab.co.uk/dokumenter/ARC0904_12pp rainline.pdf

It's very good, much better than plastic. I ordered it through my local Travis Perkins.

Thanks Feltwell. A quick glance suggests that they don't do a square section one which I want for our house which is a shame.

 

[Feltwell]

following a recommendation on here I put this stuff up:-

http://www.lindab.co.uk/dokumenter/ARC0904_12pp rainline.pdf

It's very good, much better than plastic. I ordered it through my local Travis Perkins.

This looks very interesting Feltwell. How does it look in the flesh and what are the costs like?

Can't remember too well on the costs - not that bad, more than plastic but a good deal less than cast iron I remember. It looks much better than plastic, it is undeniably modern but the lines are quite "clean". In my case unless you bring a pair of binoculars round then you're unlikely to notice, it's 3 storeys up, halfway back on a roof slope! Will try and take a picture tomorrow if I remember. It's a doddle to fit as well.

Thanks Feltwell. A quick glance suggests that they don't do a square section one which I want for our house which is a shame.

That will limit your choice. You could always have the convenience of modern plastic with the look of genuine olde-worlde cast iron of course...... :wink:

http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;j...FY?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=cast+iron+shoe

 

[johnandrew]

Hmm...thanks Feltwell....I can't believe it's not cast iron.

 

[Feltwell]

For those that wanted to see Lindab rainline guttering.... (what an exciting bunch we are! )

Joce, it is linseed paint on that dormer - about 2 years old.

In close-up:-

And finally, this is what burnt sand mastic ends up looking like - next to linseed paint and lime pointing.

 

[Schoolmarm]

Where does the water go from that guttering? :?

 

[Feltwell]

Onto the main roof slope and down to the guttering at the edge of the roof.

 

[johnandrew]

And finally, this is what burnt sand mastic ends up looking like - next to linseed paint and lime pointing.

Is that the burnt sand mastic you made yourself?

Are those normal size bricks? If so, your mastic must look very good from usual viewing distances - very neat and tidy.

 

[Feltwell]

Is that the burnt sand mastic you made yourself?

Are those normal size bricks? If so, your mastic must look very good from usual viewing distances - very neat and tidy.

Yes, it's the burnt sand mastic I made myself. It's very very simple to do. Yes, they are fairly normal size bricks for the age of the house - about 9" x 3", a little bigger than new builds but not much.

The awkward bit on that window was that it's 3 storeys up, which was higher than the ladders I had at the time. So the mastic was applied whilst leaning backwards out of the window (with the sashes removed) with a nice big drop below! My back hurt like hell when I'd finished.

Note the lime pointing round the window, but nowhere else yet If anyone knows how to colour lime mortar for pointing I'd like to hear - the original mortar is almost black, with lumps of white lime in it.

 

[JoceAndChris]

What's the order?

We removed the dormer windows, sanded to bare wood and knocked out old putty. The putty instructions are saying prime before re-puttying. With the linseed based Aglaia paint, does that mean just rubbing in linseed oil into the wood?

(and Feltwell, your painting looks fantastic, thanks for posting the pics - didn't get round to saying it last time)

Many thanks for advice as usual!

 

[Feltwell]

I heat raw linseed oil on an old camping stove in a metal paint kettle -then paint it on to the rebates whilst hot and leave it for a day - before I put putty in. It thins when heated and so soaks into the wood better than if applied cold. You can paint it on cold then carefully heat it in-situ with a hot air gun apparently, though I've never tried that - if you do make sure you keep the heat away from any neighbouring glass.

An old saucepan on your kitchen stove would do just as well, linseed oil smells lovely when heated so you won't stink your kitchen out!

The theory is the linseed oil in the putty then doesn't all just soak into the dry wood too quickly. Might be overkill but it doesn't do any harm.

If you're using Holkham's linseed paint then this is what you're supposed to do to softwood timber before applying the paint as well.

 

[JoceAndChris]

Thankyou for your wonderfully clear explanation. I'll order the Holkams raw linseed oil right away.

(not using their paint as they don't have many colours and I'm too nervous to mix my own soft green)