Sonyaclegg
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Zebra, thank you for the link. It was amusing. To think that bark up or bark down divides a great nation!
- Thread starter Sonyaclegg
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Here is a picture of my Dovre stove.
It was here when I moved in. It probably wouldn't have been my choice but it seems to work ok. For scale, the fireplace is 12'Wx7'Hx4'D and the room, 26'x18' is one of the warmest in the house. The advantage with these stoves is that you can fully fold back the doors and have an 'open fire'. As a stove it is not the most efficient due to its dual use but it works quite well. The look is definitely more 'cottagey' (some may say 'hobbity') than 'Stately' but if you are going to have to have a canopy, grate and fireguard then that'll probably not look much different to the Dovre with the doors open.
I have an open fire in another, similar sized, room. I don't go in there much in the winter.
It was here when I moved in. It probably wouldn't have been my choice but it seems to work ok. For scale, the fireplace is 12'Wx7'Hx4'D and the room, 26'x18' is one of the warmest in the house. The advantage with these stoves is that you can fully fold back the doors and have an 'open fire'. As a stove it is not the most efficient due to its dual use but it works quite well. The look is definitely more 'cottagey' (some may say 'hobbity') than 'Stately' but if you are going to have to have a canopy, grate and fireguard then that'll probably not look much different to the Dovre with the doors open.
I have an open fire in another, similar sized, room. I don't go in there much in the winter.
LadyArowana
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ChrisD said:
More 'Gandalfy' than Hobbity I thought :lol:
JoceAndChris
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Sonyaclegg said:
Thank you Sonya! And the heating system sounds state of the art!
DJH
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Yes it does. I always tried to persuade customers to zone their new heating systems when I installed them. It's easy enough with the use of motorized valves but a detail often overlooked is that the return pipe from each zone should return independently to a footer on the boiler. If this isn't done and the returns are all connected in the main circulation return often some zoned radiators can heat up when they aren't supposed to. Doing it this way does use more pipe but well worth it for complete control.
Another mistake often made is that the return on the primary (hot water) circuit should also return directly to the boiler return tapping. This applies to all fully pumped systems with the pump fitted on the flow with the cold feed to the system (where an expansion tank is fitted) connected by looping under and then up to connect to the flow within about six inches of the pump on the inlet side. This then puts the system, boiler as well, under positive pressure.
Has anyone felt a luke warm radiator somewhere when either the heating is turned off or shut down by a motorized valve?
That's how I used to do it anyway...
Doug
Another mistake often made is that the return on the primary (hot water) circuit should also return directly to the boiler return tapping. This applies to all fully pumped systems with the pump fitted on the flow with the cold feed to the system (where an expansion tank is fitted) connected by looping under and then up to connect to the flow within about six inches of the pump on the inlet side. This then puts the system, boiler as well, under positive pressure.
Has anyone felt a luke warm radiator somewhere when either the heating is turned off or shut down by a motorized valve?
That's how I used to do it anyway...
Doug
DJH said:
So what is causing this? Is it through conduction from the return manifold? I'm not quite seeing how a radiator can get warm if there is no water flowing through it.
I ask as I've just been putting down lots of underfloor pipes and the manifold is a good 5m from the heat source. Currently the zones aren't individually switched - there isn't really the need but I have a couple of actuators and can add them if needed in the future.
DJH
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Yes, that's what is sounds like to me although I haven't much experience of underfloor heating systems apart from installing my own, but the flow and return from the manifolds are best taken back to the heating source directly without any other pipes connecting to them. This enables you to fit the mixing valve and the underfloor circulating pump near the boiler to help reduce short cycling of the appliance. Do you have a dedicated circulating pump for the underfloor heating circuits?
The ideal design of the system should, in my mind, has a header and footer distributors, which, in effect are large diameter pipes with tees off them for each zone and independent circuit such as the underfloor heating manifold/s.
Hope this helps but maybe too late now?
Doug
The ideal design of the system should, in my mind, has a header and footer distributors, which, in effect are large diameter pipes with tees off them for each zone and independent circuit such as the underfloor heating manifold/s.
Hope this helps but maybe too late now?
Doug
Zebra
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Ah, that was Lady A, not me.Sonyaclegg said:
I'm already ahead of you with the zebra print hot water bottle cover Lady A!LadyArowana said:
88v8
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The heating systems I designed and installed - all two of them - I put the pump in the return, downstream of the header tank.
One feature we liked, one of the rads in the bathroom was in a permanent loop so it came on with either heating or hot water alone. In this way, the towels were always dry, even in spring/autumn when the heating wasn't in use, and the bathroom was always warm.
It was a fully pumped system of course, I think this gives much faster cylnder recovery than gravity. It might also be better for the life of the pump - ours was still going strong after 31 years. I used to turn down the speed in the summer when the heating wasn't in use.
Ivor
- I put the pump in the return, downstream of the header tank. One feature we liked, one of the rads in the bathroom was in a permanent loop so it came on with either heating or hot water alone. In this way, the towels were always dry, even in spring/autumn when the heating wasn't in use, and the bathroom was always warm.
It was a fully pumped system of course, I think this gives much faster cylnder recovery than gravity. It might also be better for the life of the pump - ours was still going strong after 31 years. I used to turn down the speed in the summer when the heating wasn't in use.
Ivor
Yes it is a bit late - it is all in now but fortunately we have a simple system and it sounds like it is ok. We have a single pump in the heating loop of our heat pump. It pushes the hot water about 5m into the house where it is directly distributed into the floor loops via a manifold. The return is identical. As the temperatures produced by the heat pump match that required by the floor, there is no mixer nor additional pump so all very simple. It seems to work well and now we have the extra loops in, the heat pump no longer short cycles which is good.DJH said:
DJH
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That's good news. I have no experience of heat pumps apart from working on a property where the pump was situated in the garage and the external pipes seemed to me to be permanently frosted although the house was warm enough what with building works still going on inside at the time.
Anyone who is having a heating system installed or altered, it's a good opportunity, on a fully pumped system, to ensure that at least the primary return goes directly back to the boiler and is not connected to the heating return in any way, at least until it's back at the boiler. It will stop back circulation and luke warm radiators in the summer.
I expect at some time or another we've had to turn a radiator off at the valves for the summer months.
Doug
Anyone who is having a heating system installed or altered, it's a good opportunity, on a fully pumped system, to ensure that at least the primary return goes directly back to the boiler and is not connected to the heating return in any way, at least until it's back at the boiler. It will stop back circulation and luke warm radiators in the summer.
I expect at some time or another we've had to turn a radiator off at the valves for the summer months.
Doug
Frosted or condensation? If frosted then the ground loops aren't working very well - we have an outgoing temp of 4°C and a return of 6°C. You don't want to go much lower than that due to the dangers of freezing the fluid in the pipes which can then wreck your heat pump.DJH said:
DJH
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No, they were definitely frosted. The pump was in an unheated garage which I understand is not the right place to have it. It was a new installation and the flow out was a good temperature although it seemed to be working constantly but, to be fair, they were trying to warm the house to help speed up it drying out.
I was impressed with the whole concept and, although it's a bit late for me now, like to install something here. Come to think of it my neighbour has plans for a new house.
Doug
I was impressed with the whole concept and, although it's a bit late for me now, like to install something here. Come to think of it my neighbour has plans for a new house.
Doug
LadyArowana
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Sonyaclegg said:
It seems that in Japan too one is expected to have a tidy woodpile. I may be spending too much time online here, because whilst hiking up to a temple I saw this farmhouse and thought "oh yes, must snap a picture for the good people of PPUK". :lol: The temple also had some amazing woodwork holding it up on the side of the hill, and had clearly been recently repaired, but the photos didn't come out well.
