Steps made of lime?

[Moo]

The steps down to the cellar in our last house were edged with a pretty solid slice of wood that had been set in, so that height and width weren't affected.
I don't know when this was done - perhaps it was how the original steps were designed. But it worked, and wasn't a bit unsightly.
Mind you, the steps seem to have been built from bricks, but would it be possible for a mason to carve out a recess on each of your steps to accommodate some wood? If you used oak it should outlast you with no problem, but either way it would be easy enough to replace should the need arise.

 

[JoceAndChris]

Wish I'd taken note of those when I visited you! It's a good idea, and similar to the 1980s picture where you can see the metal nosings that have subsequently been pulled off ( not by me). In order to stick either metal or wood, the surface would have to be flat ( getting a mason to cut them back as you say) and then a good glue used - it looks like something very black, sticky, and hard setting was used for the metal - bitumen? Wonder what's used nowadays.

Need to discuss the feasibility of all these good ideas with some craftsmen.

 

[JohnB]

Is it possible to put a wood step on the floor at the bottom and at the top, that taper to make a ramp that's gentle enough not to be noticeable?

 

[Moo]

I don't think the wooden strips were glued in place, Joce (not sure whether they had strong enough adhesives in those days). But on the other hand, I never noticed any evidence of nails, screws or dowels.

 

[Zebra]

Good work Zebra, lovely to see your steps - were they very tricky and fiddly to make? What was the motivation for doing so?

Thank you. VERY fiddly to make, as each one had to be individually scribed to fit around the existing studs and the existing brickwork. The motivation was the same as the upstairs floor; they were so wormy and weak, with all their bullnoses missing, that they really wouldn't be feasible to use on their own. I wasn't the first to do that, I hasten to add. Both the upstairs floor and stairs had been covered with boards/treads some time in the last century.

 

[Keith Bowman]

..... it can be dangerous. The business of walking up and down stairs is something that we come to take for granted, and if a step is suddenly different in height from the others in the flight it can unbalance us and easily cause falls......

A common ruse on defensive spiral stairs in castles though!

 

[JoceAndChris]

No exciting marauding attackers, sadly, except the squirrels throwing down beech nuts at me. Can't really see them sword fighting up the spiral steps though.

Thank you. VERY fiddly to make, as each one had to be individually scribed to fit around the existing studs and the existing brickwork. The motivation was the same as the upstairs floor; they were so wormy and weak, with all their bullnoses missing, that they really wouldn't be feasible to use on their own. I wasn't the first to do that, I hasten to add. Both the upstairs floor and stairs had been covered with boards/treads some time in the last century.

Very very tricky work then, and doubtless you saved yourself a fortune by making them yourself! Well done - wish I had your skills - maybe I should learn. I spend a lot of time waiting for poor Chris to have time to do things or saving up for this job or that job, would be nice to be able to do things myself ( except for painting and stitching which I find easy).

Is it possible to put a wood step on the floor at the bottom and at the top, that taper to make a ramp that's gentle enough not to be noticeable?

Hmm - not at the top, probably there's an awful lot going on there with ways into bathrooms and things, but maybe at the bottom.

Lots to look into and have priced up and thanks for all the good ideas.

 

[Penners]

I don't think the wooden strips were glued in place, Joce (not sure whether they had strong enough adhesives in those days). But on the other hand, I never noticed any evidence of nails, screws or dowels.

I suspect that the wooden nosings may have been mortared in place from below. The original nose of the step would have to be cut out to the shape of the new wooden nose. A further dovetailed trench (ie: wider at the bottom than at the top) would then be hacked out below this. The underside of the wooden nose would have a goodly number of screws driven partly into it, aligning with this trench. The trench would then be filled with mortar (or better still a polymer glue*) and the wooden nose pressed into place so that the screws are submerged in the mortar/glue.

I know this wouldn't accord with Joce's wish to eschew all but the most traditional of materials and methods, but (in my view) this is clearly a case where the modern approach would provide the safest solution.

*Actually, I reckon floor tile cement would be ideal for this.

 

[angrybird]

Joce pictures of stairs as promised x

the stairs haven't been finished yet but I hope you can get a rough idea

 

[JoceAndChris]

Angrybird that's great! Many thanks for the inspiration - what a transformation! It's hard to tell from your photos but if anything it looks like your other half has managed to even up the different heights of the steps, which is quite an achievement!

I know this wouldn't accord with Joce's wish to eschew all but the most traditional of materials and methods, but (in my view) this is clearly a case where the modern approach would provide the safest solution.

You really are such a lovely, calm voice of reason. Just as well there are sensible voices like yours, if I were in charge we'd all still be in mantuas and breeches, applying leeches, and swigging negus for breakfast.

 

[Zebra]

if I were in charge

Is someone in charge? Who is it?!

 

[angrybird]

thank you joce x
The stairs might not be to every ones taste but the rustic look is in keeping with the old Blacksmiths, i'm hoping a nice bespoke blacksmith made handrail along the left side of the stairs will add a bit more character.The wood seems to have softened the look of the stairs and I don't feel that i am going to break my neck every time I walk up and down them.
maybe a little more inspiration for you ...

http://www.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=wooden%20spiral%20staircase&rs=ac&len=13

http://www.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=stone%20%20spiral%20staircase

http://www.pinterest.com/search/pins/?q=carpeted%20%20spiral%20staircase

 

[LadyArowana]

if I were in charge

Is someone in charge? Who is it?!

Well it doesn't seem to be Mr Obama. I think it's probably the very well disguised aliens that move among us pretending to be photocopier salesmen.

 

[JoceAndChris]

:lol:

Gorgeous spiral staircase porn angrybird! Thanks for a pleasant 10 mins drooling over those!

Think I've made a decision after reading all this helpful input. Use a poultice to strip the red floor paint and generally clean up. Use Lithomex step product, which I accept is very cementy, to provide a smooth base just over the middle most damaged sections, and then get my spiral runner to cover the repair. This means the 4 or 5 inches of edges at the sides of the runner stay bare and in their damaged state (but hopefully after a strip and a clean much more yellow), and no one walks down the very edges except the cats. This means I get the look I want which is basically carpet, I avoid huge expenditure on a carpenter or stonemason, and the stairs retain their character and breathing holes as much as possible. Thanks all for helping me make a decision on it.

 

[Penners]

if I were in charge we'd all still be in mantuas and breeches, applying leeches

Leeches have, as I'm sure you know, enjoyed a resurgence as an effective form of medical treatment for certain conditions.

However, I wouldn't countenance leeches in the breeches. :shock:

 

[Willmatt]

Hi,

Due to losing/forgetting my log in and re registering, my post on litholiant on the first page was somewhat lost due to admin vetting. It is a St Astier product and supposed to be NHL based so appears unlikely to have cement as a hidden additive, although conceded the data sheets are vague! I have used both it and Lithomex in Scotland (moved here from down south and found conservation work particularly in Edinburgh has been relatively pain free). The product seem more scottish centred, I think due to Masons Mortar being a prominent or main stockist, a bit like the Scottish version of Mike Wye etc.

The product is extensively used on conservation projects here and specified by Historic Scotland, Conservation Depts etc.

I think it's a good way forward and Joce's stairs could be repaired for as little as £100 to £200 DIY based. A 1kg sample bag can be ordered for almost no cost and one step tried perhaps? Good photos very similar to Joce's stairs and with stair runner afterwards on Mountainstoneworks website under services and step repair (no relation to me and of no interest contractor wise being Scotland based!) with litholiant non colour matched on central steps and colour matched Lithomex on visible edges where strength not required. Hope this helps.....Willmatt