Nemesis
Member
- Messages
- 9,402
- Location
- Planet Earth
How are you proposing to do this?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Settle an argument.....
- Thread starter KayW
- Start date
Hi Nemesis
Still trying to decide on the insulation. Going to remove the current cement render and metal lath. Use sheepswool between the frame where the wattle & daub has been removed- we have a gap of about 120mm. Then a mixture of breathable membanes, battoning and some type of fibreboard ( like gutex/pavertherm?) with an air gap. Busy using this forum at the moment researching from others posts the best method. Then 2-3 coats of lime render (found a good conservation builder to do this bit as want a good finish). We are also thinking of extending the eaves as this was typical of the style and will enusre the water runs off well away from the walls to help protect the frame.
Any recommendations on the best method?
Still trying to decide on the insulation. Going to remove the current cement render and metal lath. Use sheepswool between the frame where the wattle & daub has been removed- we have a gap of about 120mm. Then a mixture of breathable membanes, battoning and some type of fibreboard ( like gutex/pavertherm?) with an air gap. Busy using this forum at the moment researching from others posts the best method. Then 2-3 coats of lime render (found a good conservation builder to do this bit as want a good finish). We are also thinking of extending the eaves as this was typical of the style and will enusre the water runs off well away from the walls to help protect the frame.
Any recommendations on the best method?
Penners
Member
- Messages
- 17,294
- Location
- Suffolk, England
That sounds an expensive project. Are you sure it's necessary? Are the eaves unusually shallow?KayW said:We are also thinking of extending the eaves as this was typical of the style and will enusre the water runs off well away from the walls to help protect the frame.
A run of guttering should prevent roof surface water from running down the walls, and decently rendered walls should be all the protection that the frame needs.
Hi Penners
I know its going to be expensive but hoped it would be worth it.
The eaves are narrow and with the external insulation was worried they would not be wide enough.
The back of the catslide roof is fake asbestos style slates while the front is thick welsh slate. Re-roofed 15 yrs ago. I was planning to re-roof the back to match the front and then it was suggested we insulated under the slates over the rafters. We are planning to use the attic rooms as there is evidence these were used orginally (original wide floorboards) so insulating on the outside of the rafters made sense to keep the head room. I therefore anticipate the whole roof being re-covered. Thought I might as well extend the eaves at the same time.
Sofits, and fascias are very rotten or non existant so these also need doing. PVC guttering in a sorry state.
Will keep the welsh slates as much as possible by removing myself and all the original rafters which look in good nick.
The roofing felt is also not breathable at the moment so was going to take the opportunity to change this for a breathable one.
We are restoring the house over the next 18 months so want to do a quality job but conserve as much of the historic material as possible. We plan to move in when its habitable. This is my full time job for the next year (sabbatical from work) - doing as much as my husband and I can and then using skilled tradesman for the rest.
Would appreciate your opinion on whether this is going too far?
I know its going to be expensive but hoped it would be worth it.
The eaves are narrow and with the external insulation was worried they would not be wide enough.
The back of the catslide roof is fake asbestos style slates while the front is thick welsh slate. Re-roofed 15 yrs ago. I was planning to re-roof the back to match the front and then it was suggested we insulated under the slates over the rafters. We are planning to use the attic rooms as there is evidence these were used orginally (original wide floorboards) so insulating on the outside of the rafters made sense to keep the head room. I therefore anticipate the whole roof being re-covered. Thought I might as well extend the eaves at the same time.
Sofits, and fascias are very rotten or non existant so these also need doing. PVC guttering in a sorry state.
Will keep the welsh slates as much as possible by removing myself and all the original rafters which look in good nick.
The roofing felt is also not breathable at the moment so was going to take the opportunity to change this for a breathable one.
We are restoring the house over the next 18 months so want to do a quality job but conserve as much of the historic material as possible. We plan to move in when its habitable. This is my full time job for the next year (sabbatical from work) - doing as much as my husband and I can and then using skilled tradesman for the rest.
Would appreciate your opinion on whether this is going too far?
Penners
Member
- Messages
- 17,294
- Location
- Suffolk, England
It's very difficult to say whether it's going too far, KayW (particularly as I'm no expert!), but I suppose if your insulation cladding will extend the exterior walls outwards, there could indeed be an argument in favour of extending the eaves too. If you're stripping the roof anyway, then my comment about the cost becomes less relevant.
You could perhaps do this by adding sprockets to the rafters, assuming that you have a steep pitch roof.
You could perhaps do this by adding sprockets to the rafters, assuming that you have a steep pitch roof.
jocelyn plummer
Member
- Messages
- 2,297
- Location
- North Norfolk
Yes, I too would love to know what a sprocket is, did I have a sprocket in the holy land house :?: :?
Penners
Member
- Messages
- 17,294
- Location
- Suffolk, England
If you're going to have sprockets, you'll need more than one!
If you look carefully at some roofs, you'll see that the bottom few courses of tiles lie at a shallower angle than the rest of the roof. This is achieved by setting a tapered "sprocket" on top of the foot of each rafter. It's a technique often used where the rafters terminate on the inside face of the wall, so as to carry the tiling over the top of the wall to create eaves.
It seems to me that it could suit Kay's requirements very well.
If you want me to post a drawing, let me know.
If you look carefully at some roofs, you'll see that the bottom few courses of tiles lie at a shallower angle than the rest of the roof. This is achieved by setting a tapered "sprocket" on top of the foot of each rafter. It's a technique often used where the rafters terminate on the inside face of the wall, so as to carry the tiling over the top of the wall to create eaves.
It seems to me that it could suit Kay's requirements very well.
If you want me to post a drawing, let me know.
Penners
Member
- Messages
- 17,294
- Location
- Suffolk, England
I've just quickly knocked up this crap drawing of a sprocket. The shape of the sprocket and the way it's used will vary enormously, depending on how the rafter is attached to the wall, the angle required, whether fascia and/or soffit boards are needed, and so on. But this gives you a vague idea of the principle.
jocelyn plummer
Member
- Messages
- 2,297
- Location
- North Norfolk
Yipeeeeee, I think we did have sprockets in the Holy Land. Thanks Penners!
Was that because the roof was raised several times over the centuries, ending up with a very steep catslide and overhang?
Was that because the roof was raised several times over the centuries, ending up with a very steep catslide and overhang?
Penners
Member
- Messages
- 17,294
- Location
- Suffolk, England
Joss, you must be so proud! :wink:
Sprockets don't necessarily imply a modification to the roof - they're frequently incorporated into the original roof design.
Sprockets don't necessarily imply a modification to the roof - they're frequently incorporated into the original roof design.