charlesmh2000
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Nice article. Thanks for the effort.
- Thread starter Feltwell
- Start date
This has been really inspiring! I've just exchanged on a house built approx. 1912 with 15 sash windows. I've not had a decent look at them, they look in relatively good condition but the few I attempted to open were stiff so I'm expecting they will need some work and I'd like to draught proof them regardless. 12 of them are on double height bays and practically all are of differing sizes. Is there any advice on the best approach to board up a window to make it both secure and weather proof? I suspect I'll be renovating them one at a time over an extended period and it would be easier knowing that the house is still secure and there's no need to rush to get a window back in.
Feltwell
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Glad this old article is still causing inspiration!
Boarding up - to be most secure I used a bit of ply or OSB covering the whole frame on the outside, secured with a cross beam on the inside, bearing across the inside frame - if that makes sense. One trick is to screw & glue a piece of timber to the inside of the ply, that piece of timber sitting within the box frame - then secure your cross beam to that - that way all the fixings are on the inside.
On my first window, which was 9m up on the 3rd floor (start with an easy one!
) I fixed the cross beam on with a single coach bolt - so I could pass the ply diagonally through the window from the inside, pull it back towards me into position then rotate the beam to lock it in place.
Boarding up - to be most secure I used a bit of ply or OSB covering the whole frame on the outside, secured with a cross beam on the inside, bearing across the inside frame - if that makes sense. One trick is to screw & glue a piece of timber to the inside of the ply, that piece of timber sitting within the box frame - then secure your cross beam to that - that way all the fixings are on the inside.
On my first window, which was 9m up on the 3rd floor (start with an easy one!
) I fixed the cross beam on with a single coach bolt - so I could pass the ply diagonally through the window from the inside, pull it back towards me into position then rotate the beam to lock it in place.
Feltwell
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Good Luck! Have a poke around with a bradawl and start with one that seems solid is my advice. Bays can be good as you can board a side up and not plunge the house into darkness. I'm lucky here that most rooms have 2 windows.
My efforts with a bay, a very rotten one:-
https://www.periodproperty.co.uk/forum/threads/original-windows-repair-dont-replace.16118/#p219935
Feltwell
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Thank you Charles. Looks like you do this for a living - any tips to add? Every day is a school day...........
Dave55
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Thanks for a comprehensive well explained thread, it gave me the confidence and knowledge to have a go at my windows, five down and five to go!
Toby Newell
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Bravo! *clap emoji* Brilliant post! One of the best on here.
May I also add... Bakuma!
also, fyi Titebond 3 = American expensive version of a PVA D4 Adhesive.
best oscillating saw = Fein by far (inventors) the MM700 (previously supercut, also (old version) made under licence by Festool at inflated prices as Vecturo) used by glaziers for decades.
FYI all competant experts will admit to being simply very experienced amateurs that are constantly learning and as the man says, you can all do this, all you need is 1. a little research, 2. a little imagination, 3. a lot of patience and 4. a lot of experimentation.
5. a bit of self confidence, although this starts off low, it grows quickly when your successes overtake your failures!
May I also add... Bakuma!
also, fyi Titebond 3 = American expensive version of a PVA D4 Adhesive.
best oscillating saw = Fein by far (inventors) the MM700 (previously supercut, also (old version) made under licence by Festool at inflated prices as Vecturo) used by glaziers for decades.
FYI all competant experts will admit to being simply very experienced amateurs that are constantly learning and as the man says, you can all do this, all you need is 1. a little research, 2. a little imagination, 3. a lot of patience and 4. a lot of experimentation.
5. a bit of self confidence, although this starts off low, it grows quickly when your successes overtake your failures!
Toby Newell
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- Surrey
I have been singing the praises of hybrid adhesives for years now and, just as I predicted from zero end user availability 2 years ago they are now dominating, I have been using for 14 years and wondered what took so long.
If you use sealants online then their products are similar if not better than CT1 at half the price, CT1 is super heavily marketed, hence the high cost.
Toby Newell
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I like a company that has knowlegeable staff and also prints TDS pdfs with a full range of data. I was doing reasearch into adhesives and their tensile strength and elogation data was the most comprehensive in the UK. Everbuild and their parent company Sika were useless, they print differential data on their TDS's which is inconsistent and claim multiple competing products are 'the best'. I phonef technical several times and got the runaround. 3C sealants (Sealants online) stock v high quality products. If you check their TDS's and products you will see they are BS and / or ISO rated, some specifically for instutional use, like 'antipick' products for use in the justice system, this is a verification of quality.
It's like my deisel additive I buy, it has a NATO stock number and can be bought in 1000 litre UN IBC tanks, you know when it's NATO approved and the army buys it in one ton volumes it's got to be pretty good.
BDJ
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Hi FeltwellGlad this old article is still causing inspiration!
Boarding up - to be most secure I used a bit of ply or OSB covering the whole frame on the outside, secured with a cross beam on the inside, bearing across the inside frame - if that makes sense. One trick is to screw & glue a piece of timber to the inside of the ply, that piece of timber sitting within the box frame - then secure your cross beam to that - that way all the fixings are on the inside.
On my first window, which was 9m up on the 3rd floor (start with an easy one!
Related to this point, is it possible to repair the frame e.g. pulley stiles, without removing the sashes? Or does that risk weights and sashes collapsing?!
Feltwell
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