LadyArowana
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No matter how many regs there are and how draconian the enforcement people will just find other strange and exciting ways to demise http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/news/3804909/Man-killed-by-clothes-horse.html
- Thread starter mr-squirrel
- Start date
MdB said:
No. It states no vents are required for stoves below 5kW without draught stabilisers, IF the design air permeability is greater than 5 m^3/(h.m^2).
Further down the page in Note 4, it states that pre-2008 houses are unlikely to have an air permeability of less than 5 m^3/(h.m^2) @50 Pa, unless extensive measures have been taken to improve air tightness. It does not say that you can safely assume adequate air infiltration.
Most pre-2008 houses won't have any design for air tightness, so I'd read this as meaning you're meant to survey the structure and calculate the design air permeability. A room with plastic double-glazed windows and laminate floors should ring mental alarm bells.
Flyfisher
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I've always thought that horses are dangerous beasts.LadyArowana said:
LadyArowana
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Flyfisher said:
Indeed, particularly if you try and hang clothes all over them.
My personal experience of carbon monoxide poisoning (nearly killed my brother in law and did kill two of his friends) suggests you would be wise to fit a carbon monoxide detector with an alarm (not the passive indicators) and a heat alarm too. I've never set our smoke alarm off with the woodburner but in the renovated bits we were told to fix heat alarms to minimise the risk of false alarms.
88v8
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We used to have one. It was called Peebles. One day while it was out of its cage, the kitchen door was opened and it flew away.MdB said:
Alas, poor Peebles.
Ivor
worms
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Onetap said:
On so many levels!mr-squirrel
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Finished my install before christmas, very pleased with it. The proportions have worked out well for the size of room, it looks like is meant to be there.
I know it's not very period, i'd have dearly liked to line the chamber in sandstone but it would have obliterated the budget. And in doing this project i've found a few other problems i need to address - par for the course.
Here are a few pics:
Most of the construction done, ready for the hearth. I dug out the old rear hearth down to the foundation stones and concreted a new base for my brick chamber. A slab for the constructional front hearth was poured on top of hardcore and blinding, then built up in brick to desired level. Local building standards were very helpful.
Fabbed up a steel frame for the register plate that fits snugly in the opening. The mounting tabs are offset so the frame floats and allows for expansion.
The frame is sealed against the brickwork by fire rope which was compressed as i tapped the frame into place, sealing the join and leaving a nice shadow detail but allowing the frame to expand freely. Fireproof silicone too as an extra measure.
Hearth cut and fitted, then room was re-wired from the loft to reroute the ring main. DPM to tidy up also etc.
Liner install time, pulled it up no problems at all.
Stove in and fabbed a register plate to mate up to my frame. Welded on a flange, larger than the stove spigot so even when the stove pipe is fitted you can still drop the plate for inspection. Made for easy install also.
Plate slid up and stuffed with two layers of fire rope, very tight seal. Probably a bit over-engineered considering i have a liner, but best to do the job properly. Fixed the plate with some nice button head hex screws. These screw into captive nuts in the frame. Ended up just needing one 15 degree bend and a straight section of stove pipe so it will be easy to sweep through. Less restriction for the flue too.
Up and running, still a few odds & ends to finish off with painting & pointing etc. The wall has just been patched up for now as it is coming down in the Spring.
In case anyone is wondering the hearth below the stove does not get even remotley warm. This is a low hearth temp stove with a heat shield on the bottom, so it is approved to sit on a 12mm hearth on top of flooring/carpet if required, shows how well the shield works.
So the next job is to repair the floor and take the walls down, i can't wait to get rid of the laminate flooring and pathetic 70's studwork even if it takes me all summer until it's re-habitable. I've a feeling a lot of re-pointing will be in order so going to attend a few courses on working with lime, thankfully i have the Scottish Lime Centre nearby. I don't mind inserting a brick and cement mortar fireplace, but want to repair the existing fabric like for like. They seem to offer some excellent courses and resources, they're getting a call tomorrow.
I know it's not very period, i'd have dearly liked to line the chamber in sandstone but it would have obliterated the budget. And in doing this project i've found a few other problems i need to address - par for the course.
Here are a few pics:
Most of the construction done, ready for the hearth. I dug out the old rear hearth down to the foundation stones and concreted a new base for my brick chamber. A slab for the constructional front hearth was poured on top of hardcore and blinding, then built up in brick to desired level. Local building standards were very helpful.
Fabbed up a steel frame for the register plate that fits snugly in the opening. The mounting tabs are offset so the frame floats and allows for expansion.
The frame is sealed against the brickwork by fire rope which was compressed as i tapped the frame into place, sealing the join and leaving a nice shadow detail but allowing the frame to expand freely. Fireproof silicone too as an extra measure.
Hearth cut and fitted, then room was re-wired from the loft to reroute the ring main. DPM to tidy up also etc.
Liner install time, pulled it up no problems at all.
Stove in and fabbed a register plate to mate up to my frame. Welded on a flange, larger than the stove spigot so even when the stove pipe is fitted you can still drop the plate for inspection. Made for easy install also.
Plate slid up and stuffed with two layers of fire rope, very tight seal. Probably a bit over-engineered considering i have a liner, but best to do the job properly. Fixed the plate with some nice button head hex screws. These screw into captive nuts in the frame. Ended up just needing one 15 degree bend and a straight section of stove pipe so it will be easy to sweep through. Less restriction for the flue too.
Up and running, still a few odds & ends to finish off with painting & pointing etc. The wall has just been patched up for now as it is coming down in the Spring.
In case anyone is wondering the hearth below the stove does not get even remotley warm. This is a low hearth temp stove with a heat shield on the bottom, so it is approved to sit on a 12mm hearth on top of flooring/carpet if required, shows how well the shield works.
So the next job is to repair the floor and take the walls down, i can't wait to get rid of the laminate flooring and pathetic 70's studwork even if it takes me all summer until it's re-habitable. I've a feeling a lot of re-pointing will be in order so going to attend a few courses on working with lime, thankfully i have the Scottish Lime Centre nearby. I don't mind inserting a brick and cement mortar fireplace, but want to repair the existing fabric like for like. They seem to offer some excellent courses and resources, they're getting a call tomorrow.
Penners
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Hmmm - not my taste but clearly a well-engineered job. Well done, Mr Squirrel.
At the risk of sounding like the voice of doom, be careful about letting those logs lean against the body of the woodburner. A friend of mine used to stack them like that, and one day found a log that touched the side of the stove smouldering.
At the risk of sounding like the voice of doom, be careful about letting those logs lean against the body of the woodburner. A friend of mine used to stack them like that, and one day found a log that touched the side of the stove smouldering.
As Penners advised, please keep those logs away from the sidewalls of the burner.
My logburner, fitted a few years ago in a generous opening, ignited the logs ( very dry old willow) that I had accumulated in the space around the burner and tight againt it.
I was upstairs enjoying the smell and " aroma" of burning logs when that magical romantic spell was rudely interrupted by the sound of the smoke alarm.
I rushed down the stairs to find the upper section of the stacked logs in flames.
I was lucky, there was a generous brickbase and no combustible materials closer than one meter to the logs, no register plate just a SS flue liner.
The " spontaneous" fire was the result of a very hot burner side wall coupled with very dry seasoned willow ( highly flammable)
I nearly S *%T myself.
WE live and learn ( some just live, albeit a shorter life :wink: )
Middi
My logburner, fitted a few years ago in a generous opening, ignited the logs ( very dry old willow) that I had accumulated in the space around the burner and tight againt it.
I was upstairs enjoying the smell and " aroma" of burning logs when that magical romantic spell was rudely interrupted by the sound of the smoke alarm.
I rushed down the stairs to find the upper section of the stacked logs in flames.
I was lucky, there was a generous brickbase and no combustible materials closer than one meter to the logs, no register plate just a SS flue liner.
The " spontaneous" fire was the result of a very hot burner side wall coupled with very dry seasoned willow ( highly flammable)
I nearly S *%T myself.
WE live and learn ( some just live, albeit a shorter life :wink: )
Middi
FamilyWiggs
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Good god man! :shock:
See, that's the trouble with Italians - they don't play cricket. Every civilised Englishman knows you can't burn willow; you have to make cricket bats out of it. 8)
See, that's the trouble with Italians - they don't play cricket. Every civilised Englishman knows you can't burn willow; you have to make cricket bats out of it. 8)
FamilyWiggs
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Va bene, Middi. Vi prego di continuare!
Schoolmarm
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Is the flexible liner fitted OVER the stove pipe? Or is it the other way round? It needed to be female pointing up and male pointing down.
I also don't understand what is going to happen with your finished hearth level when the laminate floor is removed as the hearth looks very high. In fact I don't "get" any of this :lol: :lol: :lol:
I also don't understand what is going to happen with your finished hearth level when the laminate floor is removed as the hearth looks very high. In fact I don't "get" any of this :lol: :lol: :lol:
Penners
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I think that's often referred to as the Missionary method of installation, isn't it?Schoolmarm said:
mr-squirrel
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You can tell it was an engineer that built it, anything other than a multiple of 90 degrees does not compute. 
I've always viewed the hypotenuse on a set square with suspicion.
Yeah, you need to use the correct adapter to terminate the liner. They are designed to allow you to seal the liner and allow any condensation to collect and run back into the stove. The flue is about 5.5m of 6" liner on a short run of 5" stove pipe and draws perfectly, the stove seems very happy.
The log pile is just for effect really - i'd rather keep the flames inside of the stove if possible! Storing a wee pile of logs on the hearth at the side finishes them off a treat for the following evening's burn with nice radial cracking. I wouldn't leave it unattended for long, all it takes is a grumpy log to pop and break the glass. Amusingly the home insurers were more interested in the potential of having builders in to install a stove than actually using one! They only cared if i had an open fireplace - certainly more dangerous, granted.
The final floor level will end up higher but i need to have a chat with building control and go through the floor construction options. It'll all make sense in the end 8).
I've always viewed the hypotenuse on a set square with suspicion.Yeah, you need to use the correct adapter to terminate the liner. They are designed to allow you to seal the liner and allow any condensation to collect and run back into the stove. The flue is about 5.5m of 6" liner on a short run of 5" stove pipe and draws perfectly, the stove seems very happy.
The log pile is just for effect really - i'd rather keep the flames inside of the stove if possible! Storing a wee pile of logs on the hearth at the side finishes them off a treat for the following evening's burn with nice radial cracking. I wouldn't leave it unattended for long, all it takes is a grumpy log to pop and break the glass. Amusingly the home insurers were more interested in the potential of having builders in to install a stove than actually using one! They only cared if i had an open fireplace - certainly more dangerous, granted.
The final floor level will end up higher but i need to have a chat with building control and go through the floor construction options. It'll all make sense in the end 8).
Schoolmarm
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AhhhMdB said:You use an adapter designed to convert from stove pipe to flexible liner (which does the male female bit correctly :shock: ). I can't see any good reason not to use the correct part for this job.Schoolmarm said:
just what I needed!