skier-hughes
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NHL wil be different to your B&Q bag.
3.5 does not set as hard in 28 days as NHL5.
3.5 does not set as hard in 28 days as NHL5.
- Thread starter thiambal
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biffvernon
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That's the stuff - just add a shovel of earth per wheelbarrow full.thiambal said:
Take the topsoil off and use the subsoil - one spade-spit down.
thiambal
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So basically, that blue circle stuff from B&Q is fine (that means I do not even try to start understanding non-hydraulic, hydrated nhl 3.5 etc) .
Pick a good colour sand, add additional soil if required for colour. Try not the be too cack-handed whist putting it in, keep it damp for a few days and rough it up a bit when it starts to set?
Starting to sound a bit more straight forward.
Pick a good colour sand, add additional soil if required for colour. Try not the be too cack-handed whist putting it in, keep it damp for a few days and rough it up a bit when it starts to set?
Starting to sound a bit more straight forward.
Nemesis
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The hydrate is OK - but mix it first with water and store it a while and it will be better and easier to use. It will be a non-hydraulic lime putty.
But - as it's a small amount, it will be more expensive but possibly easier to buy a few tubs of ready made putty.
However - I'd do a bit of reading up first re hydraulic and non-hydraulic.
Then there's adding pozzolans, which I would avoid at the moment. Worth reading about those too.
But - as it's a small amount, it will be more expensive but possibly easier to buy a few tubs of ready made putty.
However - I'd do a bit of reading up first re hydraulic and non-hydraulic.
Then there's adding pozzolans, which I would avoid at the moment. Worth reading about those too.
thiambal
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Starting to sound less straight forward :-(
thiambal
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Starting to sound less straight forward :-(
Jon Maine
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Just get some hydrated from the local merchant and mix it with water to form a cream cheese consistancy and let it stand a week or two or longer if you can. Any excess water should just settle on top.
Then mix this with some local aggregate 3-1, the lime is very bright, so the darker the aggregate, the darker the dried mortar.
Perhaps you should go on a lime day to understand the different types of lime one day, but in reality not a big problem for what you are doing. As you can probably tell there are several different angles on the subject but essentially if its lime its ok, certainly for a low garden wall.
Then mix this with some local aggregate 3-1, the lime is very bright, so the darker the aggregate, the darker the dried mortar.
Perhaps you should go on a lime day to understand the different types of lime one day, but in reality not a big problem for what you are doing. As you can probably tell there are several different angles on the subject but essentially if its lime its ok, certainly for a low garden wall.
Nemesis
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Once you have your head around it it's pretty simple - it's just people have their own ideas of what to use and ways of doing things.
We have mixed the stuff up from dry with water and left it a while in covered tubs but we have a mixer which helps. I know others have mixed it up and used it as they go. Haven't tried that way.
But buying the putty ready made, if there's not a lot to do, is a good introduction.
Read up and learn a bit more is always a good plan.
We are now pondering how to match our original, which is very white with lumps of lime and black bits in it.
If you don't have anything to match, it's not so difficult. If you don't need rapid curing you don't need to worry about pozzolans. If the wall isn't going to get splashed by traffic then the lime doesn't need to be 'hard'.
When we rebuild our chimney and the roof ridge tiles we will be using a hydraulic as it's exposed and requires something a bit beefier. Adding pozzolans to non-hyrdaulic nd using hydrualic lime gives a tougher result but less flexibility and breathability.
We have mixed the stuff up from dry with water and left it a while in covered tubs but we have a mixer which helps. I know others have mixed it up and used it as they go. Haven't tried that way.
But buying the putty ready made, if there's not a lot to do, is a good introduction.
Read up and learn a bit more is always a good plan.
We are now pondering how to match our original, which is very white with lumps of lime and black bits in it.
If you don't have anything to match, it's not so difficult. If you don't need rapid curing you don't need to worry about pozzolans. If the wall isn't going to get splashed by traffic then the lime doesn't need to be 'hard'.
When we rebuild our chimney and the roof ridge tiles we will be using a hydraulic as it's exposed and requires something a bit beefier. Adding pozzolans to non-hyrdaulic nd using hydrualic lime gives a tougher result but less flexibility and breathability.
Nemesis
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This is a good intro - although she's a bit sniffy re mixing hydrate it works fine (and Andrew Gayton uses it so that's OK by me...)
http://www.blackdog.ukf.net/
I know that the info is on the internet somewhere - I think Hull local authority has a basic PDF - but the book is worth buying (SAPB, this site, or direct).
Also:
http://www.ihbc.org.uk/context_archive/54/overviewlimes_dir/overviewlimes_s3.htm
http://www.blackdog.ukf.net/
I know that the info is on the internet somewhere - I think Hull local authority has a basic PDF - but the book is worth buying (SAPB, this site, or direct).
Also:
http://www.ihbc.org.uk/context_archive/54/overviewlimes_dir/overviewlimes_s3.htm
thiambal
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Right, Ok. Mix the good old B&Q lime with water, leave it for a couple of weeks, stick sand in and off you go. Sounding all the more managable.
Nemesis
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Have you a proper little pointing trowel?
Very useful. And a hawk.
Very useful. And a hawk.
thiambal
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Erm, got a hawk and a 6" point trowel. In fact I have two of them as I lost one and found it shortly after removing the label from the second.
Nemesis
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One like this?
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/250mm-PLASTERERS-TROWEL-AND-SQUARE-TOOL-90083-Draper-STE;jsessionid=0a010b441f43b6467f5484014d44abbf8ed67a8a1ec4.e3iKaNePch4Re34Pa38Ta38Tb3f0
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/250mm-PLASTERERS-TROWEL-AND-SQUARE-TOOL-90083-Draper-STE;jsessionid=0a010b441f43b6467f5484014d44abbf8ed67a8a1ec4.e3iKaNePch4Re34Pa38Ta38Tb3f0
thiambal
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No, but I have got one of those as well.
Nemesis
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That's the one to use. Marianne Suhr recommended... 
Penners
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Welcome to the club, Sam. Speaking as founder-member and chairman, I share your confusion.thiambal said:
Could any of you experts please give a very brief speech about these various terms, types of lime and under what circumstances each of them should be used? Or point us club members to a good website that doesn't assume prior knowledge?
In return, you'll be given honorary club membership and taught the special handshake.
Nemesis
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Buy Jane Schofield's book!
skier-hughes
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I could, but then I'd have to kill you
Nemesis
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SPAB has some useful leaflets too.
GeoffP
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I also have an interest in this as I have a large farmhouse to completely repoint at some stage in the future but I must admit, I am completely lost now, as I’m sure you must be.
A while ago, I downloaded some information which I call my “idiots guide to lime” which you might find interesting but as it’s quite a long document, I’ll send it to you by p.m. so as not to clutter this thread.
Hope it is of some use to you.
Geoff
A while ago, I downloaded some information which I call my “idiots guide to lime” which you might find interesting but as it’s quite a long document, I’ll send it to you by p.m. so as not to clutter this thread.
Hope it is of some use to you.
Geoff