paulbandler said:sounds ideal, if you want condensation and black fungus
I'm a bit unclear why that would result. Is it a question of whether the ventilation provided is adquate for the level of anticipated water ingress?
The water level in a wall depends on the ratio of water ingress to evaporation. Cement renders crack, letting water in, but are not permeable enough to allow more than minimal evaporatoin to occur. If you then stop or greatly reduce evaporation on the other side too, you've got a recipe for a water content that goes ony one way, up and up, until saturation occurs. If well sealed this takes a long time, but the same process still happens. Unfortunately soaked walls can sustain considerable freeze thaw damage. And of course the interior insulation makes them much colder.
Now with interior insulation with vented cavity, your new insulation substantially drops the temperature of the existing wall material, causing condensation to occur at much lower RH than now or than original design. And you permit interior air access to this now cold wall.
Putting 2 impermeable layers
The insulating board planned is one integrated layer of insulation and plasterboard.
What type of material determines what porosity, but whatever it is youre still making the water balance much worse. Really youre heading into a likely problem situation imho. You might get away with it, but I wouldnt try.
I might begin by checking out the exterior render to see fi there are any weak or loose patches that could be removed and replaced with lime, to give evaporation areas.
NT