Quarry tiles over earth

[ShelleyM]

Here are some photos of the carpet and underlay after they were lifted a couple of months ago after probably being there for 17 years. You can also see how much in the left hand corner of the floor the amount of quarry tiles removed probably when the house was converted to oil fired central heating in the 80s I guess. The room in the back is the kitchen this is an extension to the original house probably around the 80s alsoI guess. It was just a concrete floor this photo was taken after the previous titles and kitchen removed. As mentioned in my previous post no signs of internal damp on the walls and the carpet and underlay don't appear to show any signs of moisture affects. This might sound a bit daft but was thinking about cleaning/restoring the quarry tiles and try to polish up the concrete and then cut tile shapes into this and paint or stain and then throw a rug over and strategically place furniture etc, what do you think ? It seems a sin to cover these tiles up and they are actually really level and even.

 

[Lacan07]

The issue is Paul the need for a DPM to protect the laminate, no DPM possible bust laminate DPM fitted possible moisture issues.

Yes indeed, but I guess what I'm saying is do we really know that the tile floor is prone to producing moisture. Its worth finding out because it could be bone dry and therefore save Shelly a whole lot of hassle.

 

[Lacan07]

Here are some photos of the carpet and underlay after they were lifted a couple of months ago after probably being there for 17 years. You can also see how much in the left hand corner of the floor the amount of quarry tiles removed probably when the house was converted to oil fired central heating in the 80s I guess. The room in the back is the kitchen this is an extension to the original house probably around the 80s alsoI guess. It was just a concrete floor this photo was taken after the previous titles and kitchen removed. As mentioned in my previous post no signs of internal damp on the walls and the carpet and underlay don't appear to show any signs of moisture affects. This might sound a bit daft but was thinking about cleaning/restoring the quarry tiles and try to polish up the concrete and then cut tile shapes into this and paint or stain and then throw a rug over and strategically place furniture etc, what do you think ? It seems a sin to cover these tiles up and they are actually really level and even.



View attachment 11764

My house came with a damp warning and the smell to match but I soon realised the smell was mainly the carpet which had been down for many years and probably wicked moisture from some of the external walls and perhaps under the suspended floor. If your carpets were in good condition after 17 years with no odours then I doubt the tiled floor will be a problem going forward.

I would just try and restore the tiled floors if that's your preference, there's enough work there for one person.

I don't know much about what can be done with concrete floors with regards to polishing, you'll have to research that. Why don't you mix it up a bit? Display the contrast between new and old - carpet or proper tiles, etc.

And yes, to 'chase' is to chisel out.

 

[ShelleyM]

My house came with a damp warning and the smell to match but I soon realised the smell was mainly the carpet which had been down for many years and probably wicked moisture from some of the external walls and perhaps under the suspended floor. If your carpets were in good condition after 17 years with no odours then I doubt the tiled floor will be a problem going forward.

I would just try and restore the tiled floors if that's your preference, there's enough work there for one person.

I don't know much about what can be done with concrete floors with regards to polishing, you'll have to research that. Why don't you mix it up a bit? Display the contrast between new and old - carpet or proper tiles, etc.

And yes, to 'chase' is to chisel out.

Thanks again, what do you mean by display the contrast between new and old - carpet or proper tiles?

 

[Toby Newell]

Yes indeed, but I guess what I'm saying is do we really know that the tile floor is prone to producing moisture. Its worth finding out because it could be bone dry and therefore save Shelly a whole lot of hassle.

We don't! And that is the issue lol. As I said, it could be ok. If not you have a damp issue plus a damaged floor that needs to be thrown away and you are back to square one. Minus the cost of the floor. So yes, perfectly possible but as a contractor I would not agree to do it, many would, it's a personal choice.

 

[Toby Newell]

I deal with 1/4" and 3/4" poly pipe for work installing boilers and water coolers. We have over 60 units in a well known London Museum, last month we had some 1/4" get so brittle I could just snap it with my fingers, caused a minor leak. The pipe was about 10 years old and had been exposed to sunlight as the unit was below a huge glass atrium. I've seen this happen a number of times.

I decided to plumb with copper at home, the temptation to plumb with PVC was strong but it comes with a different set of problems and once you learn to solder copper its pretty easy.

I was referencing the rubber seals, not the actual pipe, but yes, PVC isn't really a long lasting plastic, it stress cracks, embrittles and is UV degradeable. HDPE is probably better for cold feeds being naturally UV resistant, more flexible, almost as strong as just as chemical resistant. Only issues I can see are fire rating, PVC is naturally intumescent, and cost. Although for hot feeds HDPE has a lower glass transition temperature so softens at lower temperatures.

 

[Lacan07]

I was referencing the rubber seals, not the actual pipe, but yes, PVC isn't really a long lasting plastic, it stress cracks, embrittles and is UV degradeable. HDPE is probably better for cold feeds being naturally UV resistant, more flexible, almost as strong as just as chemical resistant. Only issues I can see are fire rating, PVC is naturally intumescent, and cost. Although for hot feeds HDPE has a lower glass transition temperature so softens at lower temperatures.

Yes, for sure those rubber seals are the biggest weak spot for the larger diameter poly pipe used in domestic plumbing and the collars can fail too.

 

[Lacan07]

Thanks again, what do you mean by display the contrast between new and old - carpet or proper tiles?

I was just thinking out loud, restore the old floor and maybe do something different on the new concrete floor for contrast, perhaps modern tiles (if you don't mind a bit of step)

 

[ShelleyM]

I was just thinking out loud, restore the old floor and maybe do something different on the new concrete floor for contrast, perhaps modern tiles (if you don't mind a bit of step)

Oh right got you now yes that was the plan

 

[Toby Newell]

Oh right got you now yes that was the plan

Restoring the old floor is a big ask, especially with possibility of going through services but might be best option.

Lacan is right, there may be no issue with throwing a dpm on and fitting a wood / laminate floor on top (a floating quality 20mm eng floor would be my choice) but I always have my professional head on and I don't think it would be prudent to take risks as the downside is pretty bad ie sunk cost in floor gone, back to square 1 actually square minus 1 as you now have damp issue.

I think I might fit sandstone or similar to new area and try and restore rest but would be banking on going through a pipe or wire at some point, happy days if you don't.

Maybe try the (almost) cost free damp test, instead of hiring a proper hood hygrometer simply cut 450 x 450mm squares of HD plastic sheet and tape down in multiple places, leave for 24hrs then remove and see how damp the floor is. Make sure room is not totally unheated so temporary heating may be required (lower temps = lower RH)

 

[Lacan07]

Restoring the old floor is a big ask, especially with possibility of going through services but might be best option.

Lacan is right, there may be no issue with throwing a dpm on and fitting a wood / laminate floor on top (a floating quality 20mm eng floor would be my choice) but I always have my professional head on and I don't think it would be prudent to take risks as the downside is pretty bad ie sunk cost in floor gone, back to square 1 actually square minus 1 as you now have damp issue.

I think I might fit sandstone or similar to new area and try and restore rest but would be banking on going through a pipe or wire at some point, happy days if you don't.

Maybe try the (almost) cost free damp test, instead of hiring a proper hood hygrometer simply cut 450 x 450mm squares of HD plastic sheet and tape down in multiple places, leave for 24hrs then remove and see how damp the floor is. Make sure room is not totally unheated so temporary heating may be required (lower temps = lower RH)

Yes, that would be an interesting test, you could use something like 'Proplex' sheets from Wickes.

 

[ShelleyM]

Restoring the old floor is a big ask, especially with possibility of going through services but might be best option.

Lacan is right, there may be no issue with throwing a dpm on and fitting a wood / laminate floor on top (a floating quality 20mm eng floor would be my choice) but I always have my professional head on and I don't think it would be prudent to take risks as the downside is pretty bad ie sunk cost in floor gone, back to square 1 actually square minus 1 as you now have damp issue.

I think I might fit sandstone or similar to new area and try and restore rest but would be banking on going through a pipe or wire at some point, happy days if you don't.

Maybe try the (almost) cost free damp test, instead of hiring a proper hood hygrometer simply cut 450 x 450mm squares of HD plastic sheet and tape down in multiple places, leave for 24hrs then remove and see how damp the floor is. Make sure room is not totally unheated so temporary heating may be required (lower temps = lower RH)

Thanks Toby I appreciate all your comments and I’ll have a go at the plastic sheet test and I’ll keep you posted, I have no heating atm so do you suggest I just run an electric blow heater whilst the plastic is down ?