Pointing removal tool recommendations

[xanthe]

Oooh... in my googling of plugging chisels, I happened upon this site which looked rather interesting. They recommend using a 'scutching chisel' along with a plugging chisel and have lots of pretty step-by-step pics.

Thought I'd post link in case useful for anyone: http://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/scutching-tools/what-is-a-scutching-tool

 

[88v8]

Scutch chisels with their renewable teeth - aka combs - are good for cutting hard material, or brick or stone. But not for pointing, as they're no good for working sideways.

I depointed a whole cemented stone wall with an old plugging chisel and a lump hammer. Let me give you an essential tip:
Work backwards.
Cut a starting hole and work away from it towards you. In other words, cut forwards, but move backwards, like digging a veg patch.
Don't be cutting so you move forwards because then you're always working against strength, whereas working towards you you're working into weakness.

Try it, you'll understand.

Ivor

 

[xanthe]

That makes lots of sense - cutting against a weak void rather than a solid foundation. Am compiling lists of plugging chisels - should I get the ones with the guard? Fluted or unfluted? Lots of different sizes?

Is there a particular type of hammer that is best. I'd prefer something that is effective but on the small and not too heavy side (the maximum full kettle of water weight rule).

I think the Christmas stocking may be a bit too heavy for the mantelpiece this year!

The fireplace is proper bricks with a finger-width line of pointing. The blocks in the cellar have differing thicknesses as the blocks aren't completely even.

One issue I may have is paint...

Three walls of the cellar are bare stone. The other has thick layers of white gloss paint on. The stone itself is Wealden Sandstone and is surface dressed (little diagonal cuts everywhere).

The outer part of the fireplace is bare brick, but the whole inside of the inglenook is also white gloss. Bricks are either late C17th/early C18th.

Is there a way of removing the paint without damaging the surface? Should I remove the paint before removing the pointing in those areas?

 

[88v8]

I wouldn't try to remove cement pointing from finely gauged internal brickwork. Any damage will be so apparent.
Paint the fireplace pointing with lime-colour Sandtex.
PO here painstakingly painted all the cement pointing in the house, which meant all the pointing. Must have taken ages.
Visually, unless one knows one wouldn't know.

Hammer. I used a 2lb lump. It's easier with a fat hammer because it's less likely to miss the end of the chisel and hit your hand. That said, depointing coursed rubble with constant changes of chisel orientation, I did hit my hand several times, the knuckle of the second thumb joint. I was tired, but I had to complete the job against time pressure, in the end it hurt so much it made me cry.
So, with guard. Which mine doesn't have. But there may be times when the guard gets in the way, so I'd have a guardless one as well in case of need. They're cheap enough to have a few.

Paint... someone will be along to answer. The rich man's answer is plastic media blasting which will take the whole lot off with no damage whatever, but I guess is kinda messy.
http://www.blast-cleaning.co.uk/index.php?menuid=50&component=content&task=article&articleid=39&categoryid=9

Ivor

PS edit your profile to show your location. I'm sure you've told us but I forget. it's me age.

 

[Zebra]

I'm going to differ from Ivor here, and say use a hammer with which you are comfortable. I find a lump hammer rather heavy and unweildy, and use a claw hammer for virtually everything. Particularly when doing quite precise work, it's much easier to handle (so you don't hit your hand :wink: ). I don't even take a lump hammer to work - I chase out backboxes, everything, with a claw hammer. I think trying to swing a lump hammer repeatedly would go against your doctor's wishes.....

What would a heat gun do to brickwork?

 

[mattice]

Cut a starting hole and work away from it towards you. In other words, cut forwards, but move backwards, like digging a veg patch.
Don't be cutting so you move forwards because then you're always working against strength, whereas working towards you you're working into weakness.

Ivor - now I feel stupid... now looking forward to spring and more pointing.

On a separate note, I second the fluted chisel, especially for sub 10mm which ours are.