Painting woodwork

[Lime]

I used Dead Flat Oil on the walls and used gloss for the woodwork.
F&B gloss is not too shiny and fits in well.
As for the doors, on my front door I used Lime White on the door way frames and the door panels and Cream on the stiles and rails.
It depends on the door detail and decoration as to how you do it and a bit of experimentation is required to get it how you like it.
I have a different combination on other some other doors at the back of the house...different light more sun.

added.
To pick up more detail on the dado, picture rail and skirting I used a gold paint line.....not too much or it looks over done...but it gives the woodwork "shape".

 

[Nemesis]

Here's more about linseed paint.

I only have one external and very small window painted in it so far, courtesy of Biff:

http://www.holkham.co.uk/linseedpaints/

 

[Sadge]

We've used Holkam paints on the exterior...but have to say that we were very disappointed with the drying time and the finish. Understand all of the arguments about how good they are, but really wasn't impressed. It was on to bare wood as well.

To the extent that we actually painted over the linseed paint with an oil-based gloss :?

Thankyou all for your responses....think we will try the F&B gloss (in a variety of shades

 

[Nemesis]

Well the linseed oil paint isn't modern high gloss, but modern gloss isn't really what was used on historic joinery.

It depends really what sort of interior you have and how much you want to use historic precedent.

 

[skier-hughes]

I painted mine indoors, bare wood, and it was dry in a day, fully dry in a couple of days and this was early in the year, not very warm and no real heating.

The finish looks just like any other paint really, very good. It's not shiny like a gloss paint, but that's not what I was after.

What were your complaints exactly?

Graham

 

[Penners]

I'm partway through painting my new featherboarded garage with black linseed oil "barn paint". I'd have been finished if the bl**dy rain would stop.

I've found that the ambient humidity makes a considerable difference to the drying time, as does the substrate. It takes considerably longer to dry on planed timber than it does on sawn, and longer on a wet day (even under cover) than on a dry day (there's a surprise!). On average, it's touch dry in 2 days and handleable in 3.

The paint's lovely stuff, and dead matt.

 

[Nemesis]

Can we have a pic when completed?

(Rain? East Anglia??)

 

[Penners]

Yep - but don't hold your breath.... sunny Suffolk currently soggy Suffolk.

 

[skier-hughes]

It takes considerably longer to dry on planed timber than it does on sawn, and longer on a wet day (even under cover) than on a dry day (there's a surprise!). On average, it's touch dry in 2 days and handleable in 3.

The paint's lovely stuff, and dead matt.

Mine was planed timber, high quality dense douglas fir, but it dried quickly. The frames as I said were indoors though, not fitted whilst I gave them a couple of coats.

 

[Sadge]

What were your complaints exactly?

Ours were windows in English Oak - planed. We chose a white and even after 7 coats, it still looks as though a very watery paint has been applied and that the windows need repainting!

Ours were painted during the winter (in an unheated workshop) and took ages to dry....the longest being nearly 9 hours and still very tacky. Perhaps a darker colour covers more effectively?

It was such a shame...I went on the SPAB homeowners course at Holkham and was sold on the idea of the paint...but in practice, they all ended up being done again in Dulux

 

[skier-hughes]

Oak does take a long time to dry.

9 hours though is no time.

Can't say about the fact it is not looking like it is painted. My first coat was like that, the second covered it well.

Did you linseed oil the wood first and wipe off the excess oil?

 

[Sadge]

9 hours though is no time.

9 hrs is a very long time when it's the middle of winter and you have no windows

We did oil them first and remove excess. I'm afraid that whilst others may have the patience of saints, I do not. We found that windows painted in the afternoon, could still not be second-coated the next day...meaning in some cases that it could take 5 days to give a window only 2 coats - perhaps it was the cold temperature?

 

[skier-hughes]

In which case I suspect you were using the wrong type of paint for "your" needs.

This may have been the cause of the poor coverage and drying times.

"Apply the first coat of Holkham Linseed Paint (c). It is important to ensure that the paint is mixed thoroughly to avoid drying problems.......

In optimum conditions, 24ºC continuously, it should dry within 24 hours, it is best to leave it for at least 48 hours. Applied too thickly it can take weeks to dry as the paint will form a skin and remain wet underneath"

Graham

 

[Lime]

Is that really the case with Holkham paints?
Do they not put a drier in the paint at all?

 

[skier-hughes]

No idea, perhaps not. I didn't find it took an inordinate amount of time to dry, but I was not time pressured as I had windows in my walls and these were in the guest bedroom

 

[Penners]

9 hrs is a very long time when it's the middle of winter and you have no windows

Yes, but be fair - even a good modern oil paint (Dulux or similar) will take longer than 9 hours. You can certainly find paints that will dry quicker than that, but they won't be any good for an external application.

 

[michael]

Take a look at http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/paint/paint.htm It my not give you all the info you need but it will help you to understand traditional paints(see the oil paints section) there are also some links to related articles, products and services