Limewash on Cement

[worms]

Once mixed in (I just use a paddle mixer on the electric drill), the linseed oil doesn't seem to come back out of suspension even if it is left to stand for a week or so (stored in an air-tight container). I think the mix looks slightly less white than before the linseed is mixed in but it still sets to brilliant white on the wall.

 

[electricianid]

MD, Speak to Ted Ingilby at Ingilby Mariner, he is very knowledgeable regarding paint and limewash etc. His number is 01787 280864. As far as costs go I just paid 40 quid for a 10 litre tub of pozi-lime in a specially made bespoke colour which I thought was ok considering that it is really 20 litres once diluted 1:1, mind you I've never bought limewash from anywhere else so I have no comparison. Hope this helps.

 

[Ian Bond]

I've seen ready made limewash for sales at higher prices than that.

If you have the inclination (and more importantly the time) you can save ££££££ by purchasing a good lime putty and making your own batches of limewash.

A tub of lime putty can be had for less than the same volume of standard limewash, and used to make a considerable quantity of excellent limewash.

I've decided to make my own from now on, buy the pigments and colour it myself, given the incredible price of coloured limewash.

And because I am tight-fisted, and haven't got one of those drill attachment stirrer thingies, I used a bit of lath. How purist (and probably stupid) is that?!

 

[Gervase]

Making your own works out at about £7 for 50 litres.
£40 for 10 litres :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

 

[Ian Bond]

I must be making my limewash a little richer than yours, Gervase.

I reckoned about 100 litres for £20 (excluding my labour charges for mixing and adding colour).

Still pretty good value, even when using a stick to mix it with.

 

[Lady_Mari]

My walls are ready to be lime washed so being very green & unfamiliar with pigments I thought I would go to my local shop & buy it ready made in a pale cream colour.
The smallest quantity they would do was 10lt & this would cost me £66 inc vat.
Mike Wye's site has 10lt for £9 or 20lt for £15 (same colour). Even adding vat & delivery makes this very reasonable.

Next time I will have a go at making it myself.

 

[MD]

The limewash I have used so far i made myself and it seems okay - and if I can do it anyone can! Mine is a bit thinner than the stuff Gervase makes (I was recommended 1 part lime putty to 2 parts water).

Gervase, I have to make up another batch, so I was thinking of using your 'recipe'. Just two last questions on the linseed oil question:

1) Raw or boiled? Or doesn't it really matter?
2) Do you use it in all coats or just the final one?

 

[MD]

Just thought I'd post an update on how my limewashing is going.

I know its way to late in the year to be limewashing really, but I just wanted to get some on to protect the new plaster.

I have put 3 coats on over lime render, cement and the exposed timber frame. I haven't added any linseed oil to the mix yet, as I thought I'd do another coat in the spring and thought it might be better to let things dry out a bit more first - as you can imagine, it takes a far time at this time of year.

Just one point I'd appeciate opinions on: I have added a red pigment to get a pink limewash. The mixture seems to have gone on the lime/cement fine, but over the oak frame it is still rather patchy. I'm not sure, but it almost looks as if the limewash is soaking into the oak at different rates over different parts of the frame. Some areas have been left quite red, as if it is pure pigment.

I was wondering if this is possible - that the timbers are so absorbent that the pigment has been left behind and I'll just need to keep adding coats until I get a more even finish, or is it simple that I've gone this work too late in the year and its not drying out properly?

 

[skier-hughes]

I#d suspect the oak has different absorbency rates, as here it has been mild, although damp and I doubt that would have much impact.

 

[charlie-ia]

whats the best way to prepare the cement?
ours too has nasty plasticky paint, all curled and flaky. a good scrub with a wire brush might work, but its going to be a huge job, and i hate ladders.
any handy tips? can we safely do it in a mechanical way?

its ruled ashlar. is the limewash likely to fill the lines in? some are pretty faint due to weathering, how do we re-do them?

 

[Gervase]

Green oak will turn bright red if you put lime on it, which might account for the colour. That will fade as the lime carbonates and the tannic acid in the oak oxidises. I remember a client being horrified when I put in some oak lintels and they looked as though they had bands of blood around the edges as the oak reacted with the lime mortar, but within a few weeks the colour had gone and the oak was starting to mellow.

 

[MD]

Not sure if that is the problem in this case, Gervase. The oak is mostly the original 500 year old timber frame, although there have been some repairs. As you would expect, the surface of the studs varies a lot and some are very pitted and cracked and full of worm holes.

I've put 3 coats on which seems fine for the cement and lime render - perhaps it just needs a few more coasts on the oak to get a fairly even finish. Not that i'm expecting to get a brand new plastic-paint type finish, but does need to be evened out a little as it looks a bit odd.

I've had a bit of a mixed reaction from passers-by so far. I think people are used to the timber frame being picked out in the 'black and white' look. some think it looks good and others say, "you are not going to leave it like that are you?".

Oh, as to preparing the cement, apart from giving it a good wash I didn't do anything else. The limewash sems to have stuck to the plasticy paint okay - although maybe it will all peel off in the spring!