Hi, can anyone provide some advice?
We want to lay some pamment tiles in a small clay lamp outbuilding in Norfolk. Unfortunately it had already suffered a 1980s refurb with a screed floor and hard render internally and externally. Obviously not good but we've removed the render from the plinth inside (now bare) and outside (coal tar underneath) and will get round to removing the internal render down to the lime plaster/clay render underneath and rectifying and at some point the external render. Roof and draingage is now sound.
In terms of a floor, we want to put down the pamments onto the screed as a temporary measure so its more usable and looks better. In due course, but it may be some time, we would probably remove the screed (tiles on earth or perhaps limecrete screed even with UFH) and put in heating and shower room so its an annexe.
Therefore we want to be able to lift the tiles in due course and probably remove the screed (as in the adjoined carthouse which has pamments directly on the soil obviously without any problem as thats how it should be). I know I should ideally take the screed up but it does not appear to be doing much/any harm now the plinth is back to normal and the drainage around building externally looks ok.
I was thinking of a lime mortar bedding for the tiles ignoring the breathbility of the screed but bearing in mind sometime in the near future we want to lift without destroying. There is obviously a fair bit of dispute over traditional lime and hydraulic lime. Perhaps the wrong question but would this help to be hydraulic mortar, being a floor so drying time and carbonation time is an issue? How hard is hydraulic mortar and can tiles be lifted intact later? Is a standard mix 1:3 with sharp sand ok and how sloppy/dry would you lay? If a 1:3, do you take into account the sharp sand always supplied wet? If this mortar is wrong, what would you suggest?
Any advice gratefully received!
We want to lay some pamment tiles in a small clay lamp outbuilding in Norfolk. Unfortunately it had already suffered a 1980s refurb with a screed floor and hard render internally and externally. Obviously not good but we've removed the render from the plinth inside (now bare) and outside (coal tar underneath) and will get round to removing the internal render down to the lime plaster/clay render underneath and rectifying and at some point the external render. Roof and draingage is now sound.
In terms of a floor, we want to put down the pamments onto the screed as a temporary measure so its more usable and looks better. In due course, but it may be some time, we would probably remove the screed (tiles on earth or perhaps limecrete screed even with UFH) and put in heating and shower room so its an annexe.
Therefore we want to be able to lift the tiles in due course and probably remove the screed (as in the adjoined carthouse which has pamments directly on the soil obviously without any problem as thats how it should be). I know I should ideally take the screed up but it does not appear to be doing much/any harm now the plinth is back to normal and the drainage around building externally looks ok.
I was thinking of a lime mortar bedding for the tiles ignoring the breathbility of the screed but bearing in mind sometime in the near future we want to lift without destroying. There is obviously a fair bit of dispute over traditional lime and hydraulic lime. Perhaps the wrong question but would this help to be hydraulic mortar, being a floor so drying time and carbonation time is an issue? How hard is hydraulic mortar and can tiles be lifted intact later? Is a standard mix 1:3 with sharp sand ok and how sloppy/dry would you lay? If a 1:3, do you take into account the sharp sand always supplied wet? If this mortar is wrong, what would you suggest?
Any advice gratefully received!