Laying Floorboards

[Carrie]

We're laying new boards in a rectangular room. Is there a rule about whether they're laid lengthways or widthways or is it a matter of personal choice?

 

[Cloudscape]

They are usually laid in the opposite direction to the floor joists. :wink:

But if these are being laid on something else, like a solid floor, it might be an idea to work out which direction would mean the fewest cuts, or the least wastage?

Which direction do other floorboards run, in neighbouring rooms, or rooms above/below?

 

[biffvernon]

Flat side uppermost.

 

[Penners]

Flat side uppermost.

:lol:

 

[Penners]

As has already been mentioned, I presume you're laying the boards on top of an already flat surface (older boards, concrete, etc).

If so, then you can indeed lay them whichever way you want.

The direction in which you lay them will have some effect on the visual perception of the room. If you lay them parallel with the long walls of the room, it will look longer. But if you want to make it look wider, lay them parallel with the shorter walls.

But if they're going to be covered up with carpet, I should lay them whichever way is easier and/or more efficient with materials.

 

[middi]

Following traditional applications and instincts floorboards should really be fitted so that they follow the direction of the longest part of the room.

It is logical that beams and/or supports were traditionally fitted across the shortest span of the inner walls therefore any floorboards would have to be fitted in the opposite direction.

Even if you have cement/solid, any floorboards should be fitted as traditionally intended. It will gige any room a sense of depth.

A perfect example of this application is in the average narrow(ish) long(ish) entrance hall. It would look out of character to have floorboards fitted in the direction of the shorter distance, with a bit of weathering and discolouring it may look like a zebra crossing.

You may , of course, fit floorboards the way you like them.

 

[Carrie]

The floor is cement, as are all nearby floors. In the room above, the go lengthways (though it is two rooms with a wall down the middle so they are fairly square rooms. Thanks for your thoughts. The boards are coming in the next week or so to season so will play about with them then. Thanks. Carrie

 

[biffvernon]

Do tell us how you are going to fix them, please. Nailing to concrete is such trucky business.

 

[Carrie]

I'm going to fix them "flat side upmost" of course biffvernon

 

[Lime]

Surely flat side down if you are going to stick them to the concrete?

 

[biffvernon]

OK, I deserved that, but it was a serious question.

 

[GeoffP]

I’d also like to know the best way to fix your boards as this is a future project of mine. Will you be nailing directly on to the concrete or nailing battens down first? How will you stop any damp rising? Are you putting in any under-floor heating? How do you avoid having a step up?
Any advice from the experts would be welcome.

Thanks

Geoff

 

[Moo]

Our little (modern) kitchen extension had (and, of course, still has) a concrete floor. We battened it and then nailed floorboards down. Twelve years on and so far no problems.

 

[Penners]

Moo - did you fix your battens to the floor? If so, how did you do it?

 

[Carrie]

There's a layer of bitumen on top of the cement. We're going to glue the boards. Please don't tell me if that's the wrong thing to do because I'd rather not know :roll:

 

[Andrew Bodenham]

I’d also like to know the best way to fix your boards as this is a future project of mine. Will you be nailing directly on to the concrete or nailing battens down first? How will you stop any damp rising? Are you putting in any under-floor heating? How do you avoid having a step up?
Any advice from the experts would be welcome.

The problem of fixing floorboards onto a concrete floor without excessive height gain is a tricky one. If your floor is very flat then gluing is probably a good option, using one of the specialist floor laying glues, but only of you can be sure that the concrete floor is dry and will stay dry.

My concrete was very definitely not flat. I worked around this by levelling locally with leveling compound, then laying 12mm ply over a 3mm neoprene/PVC underlay and screwing it down. The oak boards (10mm t&g overlay flooring) were then glued and pinned to the ply. Total height loss only 22mm. Only problem is that you're a bit limited in choice with thin overlay boards, but the same technique would work with full thickness boards if you can stand the extra thickness.

 

[Moo]

Moo - did you fix your battens to the floor? If so, how did you do it?

Not sure - our builder did it. Would you like me to ask him?

 

[Penners]

Don't go to any trouble, please, but if you should be speaking to him...

 

[Moo]

John reckons that the battens were rawlplugged and screwed into the concrete. We've had a really good look at the boards (bog-standard t&g) and we can't see any sign of fixings, so presumable they were invisibly nailed to the battens.





A couple of years ago it began to look very sad indeed; we're still debating whether to cover it all with something posh or just sand it back and re-seal.

 

[GeoffP]

Many thanks Andrew. The concrete in my room is fairly flat so there would be no problem with gluing. My only concern is that I will get the “solid” feel like these imitation plastic floorboards that are laid directly on to the concrete as in part of my local pub. Entirely different “feeling” and "sound"to boards laid on battens. Also I can’t guarantee that it’s damp proof so it looks like I might have to take up about 45 sq yards of concrete when the time comes.

Ah well, I'll put it off as long as possible. untill the wife gets on to me.

Geoff