KREIDEZEIT stand oil paint

[Pennyviz]

Thanks feltwell

 

[RBailey]

How many coats of Bedec MSP are people using?

Other paints I've been doing two primer and two top coat but Bedec says only two coats.
I am doing some south facing windows (in white) and I want to be sure they last!

Thanks,
Richard B.

 

[Feltwell]

Enough to cover and no more, I hadn't really worried about the durability in relation to number of coats.

Generally I'm doing 1 thinned primer coat and then 2 top coat on wood that is either new or bare in places from rubbing down. I do use 1 colour, a darker one, where I find 3 top coats are needed to totally obscure the paler colour beneath.

 

[Feltwell]

Double post

 

[Pennyviz]

And Bedec still aren't mixing ......

 

[RBailey]

Enough to cover and no more, I hadn't really worried about the durability in relation to number of coats.

Generally I'm doing 1 thinned primer coat and then 2 top coat on wood that is either new or bare in places from rubbing down. I do use 1 colour, a darker one, where I find 3 top coats are needed to totally obscure the paler colour beneath.

Thanks, just saved me a coat of paint.

 

[Zebra]

I'm doing three, but it's looking OK after two, so depending on how exposed it is, I might get away with two in places.

 

[Zebra]

I am doing some south facing windows (in white) and I want to be sure they last!

Ah, that's what I'm going to be doing. We should keep in touch and compare notes!

 

[Feltwell]

Found a new supplier for MSP yesterday - allfinishes.co.uk, cheaper than most but crucially free carriage for orders over £30, that made all the difference, 1 x 2.5l tin is over £30. Ordered yesterday, arrived today, well packaged as well.

Toolstation now stock MSP but only in a very limited range of colours, black, white or 2 shades of grey. Not 50. We'll have none of that round here :shock: :wink:

 

[Zebra]

Hmmm. So I did a test windowcill in Bedec MSP a month ago, to see how it would hold up compared to the Linseed Oil Paint. It is south facing, in a sheltered location, in full sun, in the South East of England, in summer.......but it's cracked already. Only a hairline in one place, where it always used to crack, I guess there's a fault in the timber there. Have I done something wrong in my preparation?

 

[Me!]

Hmmm. So I did a test windowcill in Bedec MSP a month ago, to see how it would hold up compared to the Linseed Oil Paint. It is south facing, in a sheltered location, in full sun, in the South East of England, in summer.......but it's cracked already. Only a hairline in one place, where it always used to crack, I guess there's a fault in the timber there. Have I done something wrong in my preparation?

Part of the reason why I asked Flyfisher to do a three way test between linseed, MSP and Jotun Demidekk is that he has three new windows to try the paints on. I have some south facing windows that were previously painted with first Holkham linseed, then a few years later with Linseed paint company paint, then a few years later again and after I'd given up on linseed I sanded them back to bare wood as best I could and then painted them with Jotun demidekk. The trouble I have now is that any cracks in the wood of the sills, even hairline ones, seem to have linseed paint still in them and cause all future coats of water based Jotun to crack along the same line. Jotun do warn that painting over old linseed paint can cause problems.

Does this sound like the problem you are seeing?

 

[Feltwell]

I'd say it must be movement in the underlying timber - MSP is definitely more flexible than most but it has it's limits. Can you put some pictures up Zebra?

 

[Zebra]

any cracks in the wood of the sills, even hairline ones, seem to have linseed paint still in them and cause all future coats of water based Jotun to crack along the same line. Jotun do warn that painting over old linseed paint can cause problems.
Does this sound like the problem you are seeing?

Yes, this sounds very much like the issue. Interesting. Is the underlying linseed remnant in the crack not stable, then?

 

[Feltwell]

How odd, not where you'd expect to see a problem. If it's to do with the grain in the timber underneath and that crack is two sections pulling apart, then drilling from the front and inserting beech dowel with PVA to stitch across the crack at 90 degrees would stabilise it. You can get 1m long uncut dowels on Amazon - you want the fluted ones, not smooth:-

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Beech-Wood...1&keywords=beech+dowel&qid=1596286646&sr=8-12

MSP should stick to weathered linseed paint, but it could be worth giving Bedec a call for advice.

 

[Zebra]

Resurrecting an old discussion here, because I'm stripping and repainting windows. I did a test sill in Bedec MSP two years ago, in order to decide whether to redo the lot, and it's kind of cracked, is this normal for MSP in 2 years? Sunny, sheltered and south facing.

 

[noj]

MSP reveals itself to be porous if you haven't used a suitable primer over any ferrous fixings - rust stains appear...

 

[housewinnie]

Check out Ingilby paints. There linseed oil paint is very good.

 

[Zebra]

Answered my own question...again. I made a mistake on that cill, forgot I had MSP'd it, and linseed oil painted it over the top without rubbing down, just a splish splosh job. So that one crazing is not a fair judge of either system.
Honestly, I forget what I've done and find a note ages later telling me what I did, and think "Did I?"

 

[Toby Newell]

MSP is probably some sort of acrylic emulsion with VOC soluble anti skin, levelling and film forming components.

You really cannot overcoat an area that has previously been oiled and expect good adhesion. If using a linseed oil based paint you would need to sand after scraping and scrape out any cracks.

I would think a heavily linseed oil based paint would only adhere to itself, or another well cleaned and keyed oil based paint.

You really cannot mix the two, I mean maybe, if you let the linseed oil paint fully cure, for 20 or 30 years. Often linseed oil paints never fully cure.

In general, nothing goes on top of oil except oil, or wax, or in some cases (if very cured) nathpa based or two part / moisture cured aliphatic solvent polyurethane, but oil can go on top of other finishes, sometimes.