Is it possible to determine the age of a front door by the hinge!

[Toby Newell]

Well, the volute is very nice, but they often choose the sexiest figuring for the monkey tail and / or the first part of the handrail nearest to the newel.

 

[Toby Newell]

Ah okay, thank you. Restorable? (I know it would be by you, I'm asking if us amateurs could...).

Of course, relatively easy, you will have to carefully sand through the bleaching to get an even colour, it will rebleach again in about 10 to 15 years.

 

[ThornhillMike]

Well, the volute is very nice, but they often choose the sexiest figuring for the monkey tail and / or the first part of the handrail nearest to the newel.

Yes, the remainder of the rail is straightforward, but appears the same wood right up to the top floor.

 

[ThornhillMike]

Of course, relatively easy, you will have to carefully sand through the bleaching to get an even colour, it will rebleach again in about 10 to 15 years.

Great, thanks Toby. Off to your website I go...

 

[Toby Newell]

Typically you would strip with DCM stripper and no 5 or no 6 wire wool and a cabinet scraper, then wash and sand with a fine paper, say P120, to remove the bleaching, then finish with P240. Shellacking is probably easier than lacquering. Just apply 5 or 6 coats, then cut back with a fine sponge and wax.

 

[Toby Newell]

If you want a higher sheen then keep coating with more shellac.

 

[ThornhillMike]

If you want a higher sheen then keep coating with more shellac.

Thanks Toby. Last question; am I taking back to bare wood or just trying to take a layer or two of whatever it's been treated with off?

 

[Toby Newell]

Thanks Toby. Last question; am I taking back to bare wood or just trying to take a layer or two of whatever it's been treated with off?

Up to you. Looks like wax on bare wood, which was never a traditional finish. If you like the partially bleached, 'flat' look, then leave alone. Even applying a wax remover or new coat of wax could make some of banister go darker. If you want a darker, even, richer finish then you need to strip. There is no 'right' answer. It's the same process for a patinated antique.

Wax was very expensive and gives a muted, pasty and weak finish directly applied to wood, so this was never done. Your handrail would of been French polished using dozens of coats of shellac. A very thin layer of wax may have been used to protect the polished surface.

I have left handrails rather than strip them to preserve the bleaching. Up to you.

 

[Toby Newell]

You could strip with boiling hot soapy water or wax remover and 00 wire wool but this is still likely to go patchy. You might want to use maximum no 2 or no 3 grade wire wool when stripping to minimise marks. I would do any sanding by hand.

 

[ThornhillMike]

You could strip with boiling hot soapy water or wax remover and 00 wire wool but this is still likely to go patchy. You might want to use maximum no 2 or no 3 grade wire wool when stripping to minimise marks. I would do any sanding by hand.

Thanks; appreciate the advice.

 

[ThornhillMike]

Well, the volute is very nice, but they often choose the sexiest figuring for the monkey tail and / or the first part of the handrail nearest to the newel.

I took a piece of sandpaper to the next flight rail and (eventually) came up with this. Still walnut? There are layers of finish on it.
Going to be an epic job stripping four flights!

 

[Toby Newell]

I took a piece of sandpaper to the next flight rail and (eventually) came up with this. Still walnut? There are layers of finish on it.
Going to be an epic job stripping four flights!View attachment 13548

I mean, it could be an amazing bit of teak I suppose but I see no darker figuring, you managed to choose a boring bit devoid of figuring, so well done, seems too dark and too cold for mahogany, just keep stripping more, luckily looks like there is nothing on it apart from wax.

 

[Toby Newell]

Can we move this to a handrail thread? Electronic archeologists will be confused at the lack of hinges.

 

[Toby Newell]

There might be white in the grain, which would be prior sign of French polishing. Still looks like a very classy, tight grained wood though, keep going.

 

[ThornhillMike]

Can we move this to a handrail thread? Electronic archeologists will be confused at the lack of hinges.

I'm skilled at many things (honest) but have no idea how I move this to a new thread? Or do I just start again on a new thread?
PS. suitably chastised on the selection of handrail

 

[Toby Newell]

I think only Malcolm or twig can twiddle with the posts.

Keep us updated, that last photo could be mahogany, but the monkeytail looks like walnut, whatever it is it's going to look very nice.

 

[ThornhillMike]

I think only Malcolm or twig can twiddle with the posts.

Keep us updated, that last photo could be mahogany, but the monkeytail looks like walnut, whatever it is it's going to look very nice.

Thanks Toby. The handrail is one of those 'incidental' jobs that you tackle whilst avoiding the total re-wire, total re-plumb, external rendering, internal plastering, floor repairing/sanding/finishing, window refurbishment etc etc.
The handrail, whilst sectioned all the way up the three stories, does look consistent (albeit manky). I'll try a section on the floor above and we can compare all three exhibits.
Hopefully @malcolm and/or @a twig will elucidate on thread transfer...

 

[Toby Newell]

Thanks Toby. The handrail is one of those 'incidental' jobs that you tackle whilst avoiding the total re-wire, total re-plumb, external rendering, internal plastering, floor repairing/sanding/finishing, window refurbishment etc etc.
The handrail, whilst sectioned all the way up the three stories, does look consistent (albeit manky). I'll try a section on the floor above and we can compare all three exhibits.
Hopefully @malcolm and/or @a twig will elucidate on thread transfer...

It's a nice procrastination to have, handrails are always fun to do if they are made of a pretty wood, I mean, apart from the underneath...