Internal limewashing advice needed

[Tom]

Wow, that does look good! Trouble is, this is now turning into one of those 'round and round and round' times, as I shift my decision from one product to another :roll:

What's the consistency of distemper and how many coats need applying? Are there any advantages / disadvantages over limewashing?

 

[JoceAndChris]

Crucial reading - even if you choose another brand over RofJ, or make your own:

"RJF3 TRADITIONAL PAINTS - LIMEWASH & DISTEMPER


Limewash and Distemper have a beauty unmatched by modern paints. They possess a softness of texture and purity of colour lacking from their modern equivalents. They are based on natural binders and fillers and earth and mineral powder pigments and are characterised by a lack of uniformity with subtle variations of colour and tone.

Limewash and Distemper are vapour permeable and allow the building to 'breathe' and are therefore suitable for use in traditional buildings. They are particularly appropriate on porous building materials - lime plasters and renders, limestone, soft brick, cobs and daubs. Contrary to popular belief, when properly applied to appropriate surfaces, they do not dry with a powdery finish and do not readily brush off on clothes.

These paints are made with natural sustainable ingredients and are environmentally friendly products and contain no VOCs or petrochemical based ingredients.

Limewashes may be used internally and externally. When used externally, casein or tallow is added to improve 'water-shedding' properties. Casein, a milk protein and natural glue, improves adhesion and Casein Limewash is often used internally on less porous hydraulic lime plasters and masonry. It is also less likely to rub off than Pure Limewash. Limewashes can only be applied to previously painted surfaces if the existing paint is limewash. They cannot be applied to previously distemper or emulsion painted surfaces.

Distempers are matt finish water-based paints for internal use only. Three types are available - Soft Distemper, Casein Distemper, and Oil-bound Distemper. Soft Distemper, the most permeable of the three, is normally used on ceilings and moulded plasterwork. It is used on walls, but generally in 'low-usage' areas. It can be readily washed off with a wet sponge. Casein Distemper and Oil-bound Distemper are normally used on walls as they are more hard-wearing and more difficult to wash off. Oil-bound Distemper, the least permeable of the three, should not be applied to new lime plaster as there is a potential reaction between the linseed oil and the alkali lime. Oil-bound Distemper is the least uniform with the most colour and tone variation. Distempers are normally applied to porous building surfaces but will also adhere to modern gypsum plaster and previously emulsion painted surfaces.

Limewash, due to the thin consistency, can be 'messy' to apply and protections must be provided. Goggles and overalls must be worn and limewashing ceilings is particularly hazardous - and for this reason a distemper is often chosen for the decoration of ceilings. Indeed, many prefer to use distemper in preference to limewash for internal decoration of walls and ceilings.

Limewash and Distemper are available in all the traditional colour and tones. Pigments can be supplied separately for those wishing to mix their own colours.

All colours are also available in a simple non-vinyl permeable emulsion for rooms where distemper is not suitable. Non-permeable vinyl and exterior grade emulsions are also available. These modern products retain much of the variety of colour and tone as the same powder pigments are used in all paints.

Full product specifications are detailed in our Product Data Sheets, and a brief comparison in Paint Type Summary. Available colours can be seen on Colour Charts and hand-painted charts can be requested from Rose of Jericho"

 

[JoceAndChris]

Having read through that sheet, I'm going to use soft distemper on the dining room ceiling and the walls above the plate rack. I'll use the FnB distempers though, not RofJ - as I'm using an FnB wallpaper there and need a match to Book Room Red.

When I come to the passageway, which gets brushed up against, I'll use casein distemper.

 

[skier-hughes]

I've not used limewash. Casein distemper is thicker than cheap trade emulsion.
Water it down for first coat, as the water is taken out of it into the plaster.
Second coat pretty much covered everything.
Third coat was plenty.

We were painting white gypsum and old and new lime plaster, so basically everything we painted was white, off white or grey white.
I can see if you were painting over a deep purple you might need a fouth coat.

You get some splashes from it, but it is quite an easy paint to use and I didn't mask off, using a big brush for the middle small brush for the edges and an artists brush for corners and delicate bits. I bought good quality brushes, so no bristles came out.

 

[JoceAndChris]

Not roller compliant then? I don't fancy painting the dinign room ceiling with a brush.

 

[skier-hughes]

they don't recommend a roller, but I found brushing it on very easy. I won't have a problem doing our non beamed ceilings with it.

 

[robgil]

I have been told by my local lime supplier that you cannot paint over distemper with anything other than more distemper. This might be something worth considering.

edit - Skier , did you use anything on the timbers in your bed room or is that how they are normally? mine are quite dark like that in some rooms and i am putting it down to many years of soot build up.

 

[skier-hughes]

yes, distemper means more distemper, I don't see that as a problem.
Those are 500 years old in the bedroom and quite aged. We have used holkhams linseed oil on all the wood, both bedroom adn kitchen. They were dark to start with and got a bit darker.

 

[robgil]

They look great Skier , are the infills daub or plaster? I am working in my living room at the moment which is similar to your bedroom.

 

[skier-hughes]

Lath and plaster, or for the new ensuite plasterboard and gypsum.
Here is a mix of old, new and repaired lath and plaster panels

 

[skier-hughes]

before being plastered

 

[robgil]

Thank you Skier , ms robgil seems to be under the impression that a finished panel should be all flat and tidy like your new ones and i am trying to convince her otherwise. She might relax a little when she sees one all painted up nice and clean.