While clearing through the jungle of back garden I found what I think is the original cast iron roof lights from the rear of our house, one window still remains in the roof but we've found two patched up windows in the loft space, we were going to reinstate them when we're re-roofing the house next month and I'm wondering how difficult it would be to reinstate the original roof windows that we found in the garden. If it would be possible who or what would be the best way of getting them reglazed and the cast iron well cleaned up? I imagine they've sat in the overgrowth for well over 50 years.
- Thread starter LeeL82
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plasticpigeon
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I would say that the cast iron lights would need to be shot blasted and the best finish might be powder coat or enamel. Lots of places do this for refurbishing of alloy wheels or garden furniture, look up powder coating companies in your area. They may be full of holes once blasted, but if not that would be a fantastic addition to your property, and reinstating them as the roofing is being done is the ideal time.
plasticpigeon said:
Thanks, Plastic pigeon, I did think of the shot blasters, and perhaps if there are little holes created this is something a local blacksmith could repair? I'd be keen to reuse, it always feels dirty replacing things in an old house with non-original items!
I refurbed our wrought iron windows manually to remove countless layers paint and some underlying rust - Bahco cabinet scraper, wire brush by hand and various attachments on the drill to remove old paint and rust, followed by various grades of sand paper. Obviously be very careful with paint removal, as it will likely lead based so a proper breathing mask (not Asian tourist style) is essential.
Depending on the window, I then either used a red oxide primer to inhibit rust followed by Sikkens Satura paint mixed to colour for external windows, and the internal ones (which once were the outer wall of cottage) I simply oiled and waxed.
A local glazing co should be able to refit glass, I'm assuming these are leaded lights? It can be done yourself, but getting the glass cut to specific sizes can be a pain. But fitting each piece will get you good at the putty work!
Depending on the window, I then either used a red oxide primer to inhibit rust followed by Sikkens Satura paint mixed to colour for external windows, and the internal ones (which once were the outer wall of cottage) I simply oiled and waxed.
A local glazing co should be able to refit glass, I'm assuming these are leaded lights? It can be done yourself, but getting the glass cut to specific sizes can be a pain. But fitting each piece will get you good at the putty work!
malcolm
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Some links to what I did with my Crittall windows for inspiration: Before: http://www.the-salutation.co.uk/blog/crittal-windows/ Restoration: http://www.the-salutation.co.uk/blog/crittall-frame-restoration/ I don't seem to have an after photo. There is a photo in http://www.the-salutation.co.uk/blog/preparing-the-facade-for-paint/
Sandblasting is really cheap and a must to assess the condition and prepare for repairs (remove the glass and any brass fittings first). If the frames need to be repaired wrought iron can be welded and built back up to shape just like modern steel. If they are cast you can treat them like steel when repairing the edges if you go slow and stop when you get tinkling noises, but if you need to make joints then brazing is needed to avoid cracks. Galvanising might be an option - the modern Crittall windows are galvanised. I used 95% zinc oil rig paint on mine (with linseed on top of course.
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Well worth retaining them. My metal roof light was replaced with a Velux which doesn't fit and is not double glazed enough to stop it heating the inside past 40 degrees in the summer making the attic uninhabitable until I get around to some solutions that would also have worked for the original window.
Sandblasting is really cheap and a must to assess the condition and prepare for repairs (remove the glass and any brass fittings first). If the frames need to be repaired wrought iron can be welded and built back up to shape just like modern steel. If they are cast you can treat them like steel when repairing the edges if you go slow and stop when you get tinkling noises, but if you need to make joints then brazing is needed to avoid cracks. Galvanising might be an option - the modern Crittall windows are galvanised. I used 95% zinc oil rig paint on mine (with linseed on top of course.
)Well worth retaining them. My metal roof light was replaced with a Velux which doesn't fit and is not double glazed enough to stop it heating the inside past 40 degrees in the summer making the attic uninhabitable until I get around to some solutions that would also have worked for the original window.
Flyfisher
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malcolm said:
Definitely - assuming you're planning to fit them anyway.
We had three large metal 'conservation' rooflights custom made for our kitchen extension and cost just crept into five figures, which might give you some indication of the value of your find! :shock:
PS: I'd also consider the sandblasting route and would seek somewhere local who could also advise on their condition first. This is a good reason for including an approximate location in your profile as other members may be able to make suggestions local to you. Sadly, though I could recommend someone in Norfolk it will be of little help for Fife!
plasticpigeon
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That's an exciting find.
Kearn said:
There's only one still in situ and that's on the stairs, its covered over at the minute as it leaks due to some really bad workmanship around the flashings. So when both are these are back in place ill have three across the top (the two new ones will flood what were small back bedrooms and are now used as a large walk-in wardrobes
then there is a further two downstairs over the toilet and the rear utility, these have also been blocked up so hopefully when I continue cutting away at the hedges this weekend I might come across them! haha, fingers crossed.
There's no mech there to be copied, unfortunately.
Both windows are away to a company called Blast Clean Scotland to be cleaned up to see if they can be repaired and put back into the roof if they can't be repaired ill find a different use, I saw one website yesterday mentioning converting to mirrors.
fernicarry
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Looks virtually identical to the one I took out of our bathroom. Have to admit went the velux route to replace it. The original one was actually longer than the coombed part of the outside wall/ceiling so it extended into a sort of pocket in the ceiling which I didn't fancy replicating. The original plaster had been wrecked by someone over-paneling in tongue and groove so had to re-sheet the whole room.
Mine has a rack and pinion pulley thingy for opening and closing. Can dig it out from the back of the garage if you want pics. Weighs a boodly ton, don't think I'd attempt to hang it on the wall!
-AL
Mine has a rack and pinion pulley thingy for opening and closing. Can dig it out from the back of the garage if you want pics. Weighs a boodly ton, don't think I'd attempt to hang it on the wall!
-AL
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The difficulty with ye olde roof lights was keeping the putty in good heart. The sun destroys paint and linseed putty, leaks and rust follow. Then the rusted metal expands and cracks the glass.
Nowadays we can have recourse to various forms of notputty, which are likely to be more durable as they do not dry out.
Some are difficult to tool to a decent surface. This one is the best I have found
https://www.kawo.de/product_details/elastokitt
which is sold here
https://histoglass.co.uk/
It's not cheap, but for an application such as this I think it's worth pushing the boat out a little. After all, it's not a job you want to do twice.
On a similar everlast theme, I'd paint it with this epoxy two-pack, in white for minimum heat gain
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/em-121-epoxy-rust-proofing-chassis-paint-7
If your sandblasters do not apply a promer, I'd start with Jenolite to kill the rust that the sand does not reach. Then a zinc-rich primer, then the epoxy.
Ivor
Nowadays we can have recourse to various forms of notputty, which are likely to be more durable as they do not dry out.
Some are difficult to tool to a decent surface. This one is the best I have found
https://www.kawo.de/product_details/elastokitt
which is sold here
https://histoglass.co.uk/
It's not cheap, but for an application such as this I think it's worth pushing the boat out a little. After all, it's not a job you want to do twice.
On a similar everlast theme, I'd paint it with this epoxy two-pack, in white for minimum heat gain
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/em-121-epoxy-rust-proofing-chassis-paint-7
If your sandblasters do not apply a promer, I'd start with Jenolite to kill the rust that the sand does not reach. Then a zinc-rich primer, then the epoxy.
Ivor