Front path, coal hole cover and yorkstone (with pics)

[markt]

Hi

Having removed some nasty tiles on our front path, we’ve discovered some york stone slabs and a coal hole

Unfortunately neither is in particularly good nick after being covered in concrete/mortar for so many years.

The coal hole cover has a few holes in it and is rather rusty underneath. I think it’s quite unlikely that I’ll be able to remove it to clean/repair. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to proceed? I’d really like to keep it if possible, but don’t want it to rust further and have someone put their foot through it.

Both the cover and the paving slabs are covered in cement from the tiles that were there. I’m wondering what is the best way to tackle it without damaging the stone and cast iron. Some sort of acid perhaps?

Finally, there’s some dusty red paint on the slab closest to the steps. It’s quite odd stuff. I have some Klingstrip (which I’ve not yet tried). Anything else anyone can suggest? The house is in the middle of a Victorian terrace, so getting a jet wash on it isn’t really an option.

Thanks

Mark


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[Penners]

You can obviously get to the coal-hole cover from beneath. is there any possibility that you can persuade it to lift by gently thumping it upwards?

I suspect that its refusal to budge is more likely to be the result of rust between lid and rim than the mortar. So before you try pushing it upwards, I should give it a really good soak with WD40 around the edge. Soak that joint two or three times over the space of a day or two. Once you have it lifted, perhaps you could get a local blacksmith to weld in a disc of iron or steel on the underside, to reinforce it. Make sure that you choose experienced cast iron welders - it's a specialist job.

I wonder whether the red paint is good old Cardinal Red. This is mentioned on Strippers of Sudbury's "I want to remove" list.

http://www.stripperspaintremovers.com/I_want_to_remove.htm#5

 

[markt]

Thanks Penners.

Any suggestions on how to clean the cover and stone?

 

[Feltwell]

What a great find! That coal hole cover, whilst lovely, is very dangerous - don't leave it like that, put something over it now - even just a bit of ply. That cover looks very thin - if it breaks and you go through it, the broken edges will be very sharp indeed and could do you a serious injury. Cast iron is very brittle and will break without any warning - not like a mild steel manhole cover that will bend a bit first!

Penners comments sound very sensible - if you can get someone to reinforce it then great, but cast iron is a complete sod to weld - I suspect you'll need a specialist, they do exist.

http://www.castironwelding.co.uk/

Alternatively, Longbottoms may do a suitable replacement - or may even be able to cast a new one, using the old one as a pattern - not sure how practical that will be, call them, they're a friendly bunch.

http://www.longbottomfoundry.co.uk/

Getting the cement out of the cover is just a case of very carefully chipping it out with a small cold chisel, taking care not to hit the cast iron with too much force. As for your Yorkstone - tricky, as I suspect acid may damage the stone. I'd get as much off as possible with gentle mechanical means (cold chisel, maybe a gentle go with a wire brush, no power tools!) - then if you're still not happy try a tiny bit of brick acid in an inconspicuous spot.

 

[Moo]

I'd be inclined to concentrate on the manhole cover and forget about the slabs for a while. It could well be that, exposed to the elements and foot traffic, most of the cement will, in time, flake or wear off without any direct intervention from you.
The red paint shouldn't be a problem. We got it off our (indoor) slabs with leftovers of the poultice system* we'd used on our paint-clogged cornice.



I think it was called Peelaway - not from Strippers, but the same sort of idea as the stuff they sell.

 

[markt]

Thanks.

That looks like most of my weekend is planned now

Might have a look round to see if I can find a replacement cover in case this one can't be rescued.

 

[Penners]

As for your Yorkstone - tricky, as I suspect acid may damage the stone.

Yes, I agree. Acid + alkali = fizz, crumble....

As Feltwell said, you could get a new one made, but you could also spend an enjoyable day tramping around architectural reclamation yards. I'd be surprised if you can't find a replacement (although the pattern will probably be different).

 

[Feltwell]

I really would take immediate measures to stop anyone standing on that though! Might sound alarmist, but having gone through a rusted manhole cover myself - which looked in a much better state than your coalhole cover - I wouldn't want to stand on that. Even with my sylph-like figure..... :lol:

I was lucky, it was only a 12" fall and I just cut my ankle.

 

[philpjuk100]

Could you push it out with a length of timber and a car jack? and maybe a circle of thickish timber to spread the load.

 

[FamilyWiggs]

What does it say around the outside? Looks like the name of a foundry and address? I think I can see "High Street" at the bottom of the pic. That might help you find a replacement if none of the above excellent advice is not successful.

I agree though - cover it asap, before there's an accident.

 

[FamilyWiggs]

Incidentally - how were they opened originally? Surely there was a way for the coalman to open them from outside?

 

[Gareth Hughes]

What does it say around the outside? Looks like the name of a foundry and address? I think I can see "High Street" at the bottom of the pic. That might help you find a replacement if none of the above excellent advise is not successful.

I agree though - cover it asap, before there's an accident.

It appears to be Wiliam Pryor and Co, Kingsland High Street

A William Pryor cover is among these, but with a different address:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/janepbr/sets/72157607753988900/

 

[Schoolmarm]

Aren't they beautiful.

 

[Flyfisher]

Could you push it out with a length of timber and a car jack? and maybe a circle of thickish timber to spread the load.

I like that idea, coupled, perhaps, with some gentle tapping with a hammer around the circumference of the cover to loosen the grip of the rust - with the emphasis on gentle so as not to crack the brittle cast iron.

 

[Moo]

Before you take any action that might damage it, it might be an idea to take an impression of it - I'm sure there are quick-release materials available.

 

[LadyArowana]

Before you take any action that might damage it, it might be an idea to take an impression of it - I'm sure there are quick-release materials available.

What a good idea, even a sheet of paper and a soft pencil would probably capture an acceptable rubbing that showed the details.

 

[markt]

Thanks all for the advice.

The cover came out very easily in the end. Just a bit of WD40 overnight and a light tap with a block of wood saw to that.

Next thing is to try and get it restored/repaired/reinforced.

 

[Moo]

The cover came out very easily in the end. Just a bit of WD40 overnight and a light tap with a block of wood saw to that.

Where would we all be without Penners' sage advice?

 

[Feltwell]

Next thing is to try and get it restored/repaired/reinforced.

I'm surprised it came out so easily! That was a result.

I've been trying to think of the best way of repairing it. The main problem is that corrosion has made the cover very thin, and actually punctured it in places. To try to reinforce that by welding sections on would I think be very hard indeed.

Now this is most definitely not my area of expertise!!! But, since when did ignorance stop anyone giving advice on the internet??? Have you thought of metal spraying?

Metal spraying is an industrial process usually used for restoring worn machine parts - metal is sprayed on much like paint, building up in layers, and then the worn surface is machined back to it's original profile. You ****might**** be able to do that to the inside of your cover - building up it's thickness and therefore strength. It can definitely be done with cast iron, but your cover would need to have abrasive blasting of some kind to the inside first to clean it up - which carries a risk of punching more holes in it if it is that corroded. How they would plug even the existing holes to spray onto I don't know - but it might be worth asking.

You can add up to 6mm of thickness per sprayed layer, and it is a process used for salvaging castings.

http://www.ibsblowers.com/services-metal-spraying.asp

http://www.cariboochrome.com/spray_welding.html

 

[MattW]

This might seem an odd suggestion, and some what out of keeping with PP, but... have you thought about GRP (Glass Reinforced Plastic or fibreglass) on the inside of the lid - I would imagine the resin would bond very tightly to the iron once cleaned up, rust removed and dry. It would strengthen the lid hugely - dirt on the top surface would soon hide it in the holes.