- Thread starter Toby Newell
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fernicarry
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Boards looks lovely.
I'm still battling my problem ceiling in the hallway, once that's done I'll get back to finishing the floor. Have ordered some shellac sealer as recommended.
I'm still battling my problem ceiling in the hallway, once that's done I'll get back to finishing the floor. Have ordered some shellac sealer as recommended.
Lacan07
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Thanks, I was aiming for something a bit rustic but as with all things I get carried away. The wood worm certainly gives it some rustic charm.
Toby Newell
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Fantastic job Paul! Looks great! Must have got good advice 
Those photos you DM'd me, the white is still a reaction where it hasn't cured properly, but it doesn't appear crusty and you buried it in multiple top coats so hopefully you got away with it. The white areas don't really detract from the overal effect, if anything they add interest, you got some nice chatoyancy there.
Was great you waited before applying the top coat and hopefully didn't sand the reacted areas. So glad you didn't have to start all over again! Next time maybe try a water stain and shellac and see how that goes.
Those photos you DM'd me, the white is still a reaction where it hasn't cured properly, but it doesn't appear crusty and you buried it in multiple top coats so hopefully you got away with it. The white areas don't really detract from the overal effect, if anything they add interest, you got some nice chatoyancy there.
Was great you waited before applying the top coat and hopefully didn't sand the reacted areas. So glad you didn't have to start all over again! Next time maybe try a water stain and shellac and see how that goes.
Toby Newell
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It appears to be a reaction where the lacquer has lifted and moisture has got underneath, probably solvents from the nitrostain. The solvent 'hid' in the central shake, more solvent gets absorbed around holes and cracks. Doesn't look bad though, if anything adds interest. As long as the adhesion is good it should be fine.
Toby Newell
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Ok, so, the light areas near the knots could be where the sander has smeared their resin nearby and the stain hasn't taken, perfectly normal.
Toby Newell
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Really fantastic work Paul, this is how your learn, often the hard way! Next time don't stain or coat unheated areas when its 12 degrees! So happy it wasn't fatal, just gave you a scare. Lovely work, I couldn't have done much better myself. And you ALWAYS can see sanding marks if you look close enough, nothing wrong with your sanding. You can be happy this result is better than 99% of sanding companies out there.
Toby Newell
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Check out that chatoyancy... you can almost see some quarter grain figure, who said pine is dull?
Toby Newell
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...shellac floor barrier seal hopefully, not sanding sealer, that contains soap and mica and will seriously reduce your adhesion if you are using a water based lacquer on top.
Lacan07
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Thanks. There isn't many obvious sanding mistakes that have come through in the last week or so. I hand finished the final pass. I wondered if the mistakes may have been when I angled the Rotex to take off the higher points quicker but I don't think thats even true. I think next time I'll change up the pads more often, I was being a bit stingy and the sanding process probably took a lot longer than it should.
Lacan07
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Yes, its looks almost 3 dimensional. I was pleased with the way the native and non native pine had a relatively constant tone and colour. I think the Bona Intense really helped with the chatoyancy, it gives a medium colouration.
Lacan07
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I've noticed a few of the Lecol infills have changed the last week, they've gone a kind of off white / light grey but looks fine. I won't be using lecol much more for the rest of the house, just needed it for the bathroom. I have know doubt the floor will keep changing, especially in the summer when it really drys out. I must sort some plantation shutters, there were some good deals on this Easter weekend. I'm aware Nitrostain isn't entirely light fast in direct sunlight.
Toby Newell
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Depends what abrasive you used. Depends if you used the rotex in DA or orbital mode. Also remember the rotex has a 5mm throw. I finish with an ETSEC/3 with a 3mm throw. I also use a thin interface pad. Finally I water wash before the final sand. I can't really see any sanding errors though. You seem to have done a pretty good job.
Toby Newell
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Bona intense is simply a pigmented water based primer, actually will dull the chatoyancy a bit! Shellac would of increased it. Chatoyancy increases the finer you sand, it means you did a good job sanding.
Toby Newell
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The grey is simply whatever reaction you got, as long as it doesn't delaminate you are fine, aesthetically it just looks interesting, possibly even aged more. No stain is lightfast. I always thought nitrostain had poor lightfastness but I only really ever used it as a contract polisher. Water dyes have better lightfastness as do the lightfast spirit stains I use in my shellac tints, but any warm stain will go cooler after a few years. Shutters are a good idea if you want to prolong the colour. Lecol is great, again, next time make sure area is heated and apply a thin coat of shellac after the stain, it should help. Floors shouldn't change so much after you have finished! I guess it's fun to see what happens.
Lacan07
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Ok, I'll do some testing with the shellec and the Jenkins nitrostain before I do the bedroom.
Toby Newell
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You will need one of these...
I use a no 16 or no 18 for floors, but you might be better off starting with a no 14. There must be a parallel universe somewhere, these keep getting cheaper, whilst their squirrel counterparts continue to rise.
Toby Newell
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^^^ set it by dipping in shellac, turning it upside down and letting it dry, you can cover the hair with clingfilm or a sandwhich bag. Don't be surprised if some of the quill bindings ping off, unless the head gets loose you can leave or staple through the quill. Been meaning to rebind my brushes for years... only have one with a wobbly head. After use remove excess shellac, if coloured wash with meths, then point to form a tulip and carefully wrap in plastic, I use small commercial catering bags, then keep in a sandwhich box. This should keep it soft for a few weeks. If hard then just soften in meths for a few hours. Remember to point before putting away and don't bend or head will dry bent. Also don't leave in shellac all day or overnight or it will get bent.
Will take a few weeks of work to really soften up. I 'train' brushes for a few months doing rough sealing before they get to see any colour work. Then you have a year or three of purple patch before it starts to wear too much. I have had some colour brushes for over 20 years. Technically it's a polishing mop, colour brushes are usually squirrel, but a nicely worn zorino can pass as a poor mans squirrel. Yours should last a lifetime. You will lose hairs at the start, then it will be great, then as it wears, more hairs, it's just a fact. Amazing brushes though, a little no 14 mop with a tiny 1 inch head will be able to coat double or triple the length of board than a regular 2 or 3 inch paintbrush per fill, because of the surface area. The more you use it the nicer tulip you will get. It should compress to a razor thin edge when wet and you can get pretty accurate at cutting in. I rarely use masking tape. If you have never used a larger watercolour wash brush or similar you should be surprised at how nice it is to use, it's specifically designed to be used with shellacs and solvent lacquers, the only other use is in gilding. So never use it for oil varnishes or water based finishes! Those will ruin it.
Will take a few weeks of work to really soften up. I 'train' brushes for a few months doing rough sealing before they get to see any colour work. Then you have a year or three of purple patch before it starts to wear too much. I have had some colour brushes for over 20 years. Technically it's a polishing mop, colour brushes are usually squirrel, but a nicely worn zorino can pass as a poor mans squirrel. Yours should last a lifetime. You will lose hairs at the start, then it will be great, then as it wears, more hairs, it's just a fact. Amazing brushes though, a little no 14 mop with a tiny 1 inch head will be able to coat double or triple the length of board than a regular 2 or 3 inch paintbrush per fill, because of the surface area. The more you use it the nicer tulip you will get. It should compress to a razor thin edge when wet and you can get pretty accurate at cutting in. I rarely use masking tape. If you have never used a larger watercolour wash brush or similar you should be surprised at how nice it is to use, it's specifically designed to be used with shellacs and solvent lacquers, the only other use is in gilding. So never use it for oil varnishes or water based finishes! Those will ruin it.
Lacan07
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Thanks, seems there's quite a bit to learn. Never used one of these, I'll see if there are nay videos on YTube