Feasability of DIY re-slate

[kreyszig]

don't forget that there will be repairs to woodwork that needs doing as you uncover it.

That's a very important point. Pretty well any job that you carry out on a period property will uncover previously unseen problems that add to the complexity, cost and time of the original job.

Couldn't agree more. Part of the joys of older properties I suppose.

 

[Flyfisher]

Membrane - Proctor Roofshield. Good, but beware - it's bright green, don't really want it showing at the gutters.
All-black membrane here
http://www.novia.co.uk/products/bm_bba_breather.html

My understanding is that breathable membranes are not UV stable in terms of years and certainly not over the lifetime of a roof (hopefully!). Therefore I don't think the colour really matters too much because it shouldn't really be exposed anywhere. 'Eaves Protection Strip' should be used into the gutters and the membrane laid on top of this strip but not extending out from underneath the roof tiles/slates. Something like this:
http://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/non-breathable/ruberoid-eaves-protection-strip-16m-x-330mm.html

 

[88v8]

Membrane - Proctor Roofshield. Good, but beware - it's bright green, don't really want it showing at the gutters.
All-black membrane here
http://www.novia.co.uk/products/bm_bba_breather.html

My understanding is that breathable membranes are not UV stable in terms of years and certainly not over the lifetime of a roof (hopefully!). Therefore I don't think the colour really matters too much because it shouldn't really be exposed anywhere. 'Eaves Protection Strip' should be used into the gutters and the membrane laid on top of this strip but not extending out from underneath the roof tiles/slates. Something like this:
http://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/non-breathable/ruberoid-eaves-protection-strip-16m-x-330mm.html

True. Roofshield say up to three months.
Oddly enough their own publicity pic shows a new roof with their (green) membrane covered with a black membrane at the eaves.
I'm using something similar to your Eaves Protection Strip, although in my case it's called a Felt Support Tray and is rigid, which on a curved roof perhaps isn't such a great idea.
http://www.diybuildingproducts.co.uk/felt-support-trays-1-5m.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=CLuMyeGuyb8CFfOhtAodyXwADQ

In fact, now I'm doing the roof myself in the builder's absence, I find the rigid tray is pressing the membrane so tightly against the underside of the bottom batten that there's no way for any water to get out! I'm 'fixing' that by inserting a couple of plastic wedges betwixt tray and batten to create a space for the water to escape.
At the same time I'm removing the leaf debris and dropped nails, screws and cigarette ends that have already accumulated against the batten. It doesn't take much to remind me why I like to do everything myself, unfortunately it all takes too long and accumulating aches and pains also remind me that time is finite.

Ivor

 

[middi]

It looks ugly if you have a continuous piece of lead overlapping the slates. It looks more professional to have a series of lead sections, each one tucked under one slate and then emerging and overlapping the one below.

Although the above is quite true, the main reason to have shorter length of lead ( usually up to 2 meters max. ) is that longer lengths, and due to the high expansion and contraction of lead in exterior situations, will lead to cracked lead in very short periods of time.

MIDDI

 

[DJH]

That's right Middi although 1.5 metres ( about 5 feet ) is the length needed for cover flashings and shouldn't be exceeded.

Doug

 

[Flyfisher]

Any tips on working on a fairly high roof would be well received too!

Assuming you have someone to help, don't bother wasting time rigging up a gin-wheel to hoist up buckets of mortar, just send it up one shovelful at a time . . .

http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=c18_1405818289

 

[Penners]

:shock:

I'm sure those guys are defying some Newtonian Law of physics.