LadyArowana
Member
- Messages
- 3,687
Congratulations, it's looking very handsome already, and I'm sure it will be a lot more cosy too.
- Thread starter Zebra
- Start date
Flyfisher
Member
- Messages
- 10,170
- Location
- Norfolk, UK
Zebra said:
Fussiness and time are the advantages that DIYers usually have over contractors (unless you have limitless funds available).
Your house was fortunate to find you.
Zebra
Member
- Messages
- 2,985
- Location
- St Albans, Hertfordshire
Have a puzzle which I would be glad if you would turn your grey matter to!
Where the beam ends originally protruded through the original lime plaster, and now I have applied external wall insulation onto the frame, these beam ends still protrude, though not very far. I could perhaps leave them exposed and cut in the render around them, and seal the joint with frame sealant, though with the risk that if water gets down between the beam and the insulation it will rot the insulation from the inside. Option 2 is render straight over them, though there is the risk that differential expansion will cause the render to crack at this point. Option 3 is to make little lead hats to cover them, tucked in between the beam and the render at the top, but running out over the render underneath, though with the drawback that this won't allow the beam ends to breathe.
Any ideas?!!
Where the beam ends originally protruded through the original lime plaster, and now I have applied external wall insulation onto the frame, these beam ends still protrude, though not very far. I could perhaps leave them exposed and cut in the render around them, and seal the joint with frame sealant, though with the risk that if water gets down between the beam and the insulation it will rot the insulation from the inside. Option 2 is render straight over them, though there is the risk that differential expansion will cause the render to crack at this point. Option 3 is to make little lead hats to cover them, tucked in between the beam and the render at the top, but running out over the render underneath, though with the drawback that this won't allow the beam ends to breathe.
Any ideas?!!
Attachments
billybuntus
Member
- Messages
- 90
Nice job! I'm hoping to do this to our north facing wall in the future (also to help water penetration). Do you bond it straight to the render/stone or frame it out first? Any air gap required?
What sort of cost is it per sq/m?
What sort of cost is it per sq/m?
Zebra
Member
- Messages
- 2,985
- Location
- St Albans, Hertfordshire
Not sure what you mean by helping with water penetration. Surely that is a bad thing and any wallcovering should be designed to prevent it!
The woodfibre insulation is screwed to the wall with special fixings which have a kind of oversized washer, recessed screw and insulating cap. There are different types for masonry and timber.
No air gap is required, it is a breathable system. The boards are tongue-and-groove, and sit in a special aluminium base rail which has a render drip bead on.
You also use a NHL render system with them, with mesh between the first and second coats of render. The top coat can be through-coloured so you don't need to paint afterwards.
The price depends on the thickness. 40mm thick are about £14 per sq m. 60mm thick are about £20 per sq m. That's just for the boards not including the render or the fixings. I did it in two layers, one of 40mm and one of 60mm. Homatherm is a slightly cheaper brand.
Some types are parrafin impregnated. Some are not so must be used with a water resistant layer such as a breathable membrane (ooh, that's just given me an idea for the beam ends.....).
If you're really interested, I did a cost comparison spreadsheet for the different brands available (Steico, Diffutherm, Pavatherm, Gutex, Homatherm) which I could email to you if you wanted to PM me your email address.
There are other types of EWI you could consider. Woodwool boards are an option but are less thermally effective. You could also use Celotex/Kingspan - middi explains how here: http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12173.
The woodfibre insulation is screwed to the wall with special fixings which have a kind of oversized washer, recessed screw and insulating cap. There are different types for masonry and timber.
No air gap is required, it is a breathable system. The boards are tongue-and-groove, and sit in a special aluminium base rail which has a render drip bead on.
You also use a NHL render system with them, with mesh between the first and second coats of render. The top coat can be through-coloured so you don't need to paint afterwards.
The price depends on the thickness. 40mm thick are about £14 per sq m. 60mm thick are about £20 per sq m. That's just for the boards not including the render or the fixings. I did it in two layers, one of 40mm and one of 60mm. Homatherm is a slightly cheaper brand.
Some types are parrafin impregnated. Some are not so must be used with a water resistant layer such as a breathable membrane (ooh, that's just given me an idea for the beam ends.....).
If you're really interested, I did a cost comparison spreadsheet for the different brands available (Steico, Diffutherm, Pavatherm, Gutex, Homatherm) which I could email to you if you wanted to PM me your email address.
There are other types of EWI you could consider. Woodwool boards are an option but are less thermally effective. You could also use Celotex/Kingspan - middi explains how here: http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12173.
plasticpigeon
Member
- Messages
- 2,462
- Location
- Birmingham
Great job, I'm amazed at how much folks on here get done just in their spare time, you must be very dedicated. I am doing most things myself too, but taking longer to do much simpler stuff.
> 40mm thick are about £14 per sq m. 60mm thick are about £20 per sq m.
If you want me to make you some for less, let me know.
I've been considering doing something similar, but applying it wet so it adheres to the wall in one solid piece, and provides a solid base for the final render.
NT
ps I'm tempted to say it looks like you've boarded over all the windows
If you want me to make you some for less, let me know.
I've been considering doing something similar, but applying it wet so it adheres to the wall in one solid piece, and provides a solid base for the final render.
NT
ps I'm tempted to say it looks like you've boarded over all the windows