Disapponted with Little Green paint longevity.

[88v8]

The cheapo Screwfix "No Nonsense" metal paint that I used on my guttering 6 years ago is lasting really well - it was like smooth Hammerite but thinner. Alas I believe they've now changed it from solvent to water based and its not as good.

Someone on here a while ago who was into classic cars posted up an epoxy metal paint that was supposed to be very good if pricey, if memory serves me right. Who was it, 88v8 perhaps??

Yes.
Epoxy Mastic 121.
Used it on some iron guttering last year and expect never to revisit. Used it on the rusty and little prepared front axle of my former Landy years ago, it never chipped or rusted.
The best, I believe.
Bit gloopy. And being a two-pack has the usual faffulations of mixing and pot life.
http://www.rust.co.uk/products/category/28117/epoxy-mastic-rust-proofing-chassis-paint/

Finish is satiny. Cellulose thinners to clean brushes.

POR15 also has a good rep, but for me it's a second-division option. When it comes to painting, I would never think twice about the cost of materials, relative to my time. I hate dong things twice.

Ivor

 

[a twig]

Rustoleum for me - after being distinctly unimpressed with hammerite in the past, everything I do now uses rustoleum, a lot easier to paint on, a better finish (IMO) and usually cheaper as well!

I've done various parts of various Land Rovers and other metal work with the stuff and all still in great shape many years later.

 

[plasticpigeon]

I have used rustoleum hard hat on rim locks and the finish is very good. It covers much better than smoothrite does.

 

[Me!]

Better, but still a bit gloopy.

Smoothrite can definitely be thinned using Hammerite thinners so that it can be sprayed on. If you find it too gloopy to brush on, then I don't see why you can't add a small amount of the same thinners first to make it flow more.