Disapponted with Little Green paint longevity.

[plasticpigeon]

I have used oil based little green paint on my externa; woodwork, as I think their choice of colours is the best. Their paint is also very nice to use and has a very nice finish. However i have painted 2 sash windows with little green lead white paint, which is an off white colour, both of which are on the north facing side of the house. On both windows the paint has started lo lift and flake from the putty line on the bottom rail of both sashes in both windows, after less than a year. I painted slightly over the glass by a mm or 2 as one is supposed to and I have been very careful with application, and rubbing down and cleaning between coats. I can only assume that this paint is not very good for outdoors. I painted a small casement with dulux oil undercoat last year and didn't get around to the top coat. On that window the paint is sound on the putty line. I realise now that dulux can match any colour and I have tried their service for an interior colour and the match was near perfect, so unless anyone has any better ideas, I think I will match the little green colours I have in dulux exterior weathershield as it seems more durable.

P. S. I don't want to use Linseed pain as i am painting the windows in situ and can't cope with the long drying times.

 

[paulb33]

In terms of longevity, traditional (time-tested) paints will likely be best.

If you choose to go the modern paint route, then I suspect Dulux have industry-leading paint technology. Whereas, I suspect that Little Green, FnB, etc. excel at modern marketing.

 

[jocelyn plummer]

There was another posting here a while ago about exterior Little Greene Paint coming off.

I have resorted to Permoglaze for exterior finishes, and, at a push, would use F&B oil based if still available.

It's worth waiting for linseed paint to dry as it is excellent for new timber and long lasting .

 

[88v8]

I still reckon Sikkens AZ Rubbol
http://sikkens.trade-decorating.co.uk/products/sikkens_rubbol_az_plus.jsp

Not at all Period, but very durable.

In the past I've had paint colour-matched using a Dulux machine, by using white AZ as a base. It may not give an exact match, depending as some bases are not white. But I'd rather have a not quite colour match than be repainting...

Ivor

 

[plasticpigeon]

I see Sikkens is stocked at Dulux trade decorating centres, so I shall ask about it when I next go there. Ivor was that the brand you used for the green on your previous property?

 

[Penners]

I suspect that Little Green, FnB, etc. excel at modern marketing.

I agree... wholeheartedly.

 

[paulb33]

Before my conversion to linseed oil paint (Histocolour is good), I used Solignum Architectural. HIGHLY recommended. Albeit obscenely expensive and tough to paint with.

http://www.solignum.co.uk

Described as a wood stain, its a high performance external paint.

Our gate looks fresh as the day it was painted 7 years ago. Zero degradation. Nil. Nada. Especially impressive with black paint.

 

[88v8]

I see Sikkens is stocked at Dulux trade decorating centres, so I shall ask about it when I next go there. Ivor was that the brand you used for the green on your previous property?

I used Magnet lead in the 1980s, some of which I never overpainted in 30 years.
And Sikkens in the 1990s onwards.

Ivor

 

[88v8]

Before my conversion to linseed oil paint (Histocolour is good), I used Solignum Architectural. HIGHLY recommended. Albeit obscenely expensive and tough to paint with.
Our gate looks fresh as the day it was painted 7 years ago. Zero degradation. Nil. Nada. Especially impressive with black paint.

Was that the solvent or the water-base? and was it on new wood, or over old paint?

You mean 'reassuringly expensive'

Ivor

 

[paulb33]

Before my conversion to linseed oil paint (Histocolour is good), I used Solignum Architectural. HIGHLY recommended. Albeit obscenely expensive and tough to paint with.
Our gate looks fresh as the day it was painted 7 years ago. Zero degradation. Nil. Nada. Especially impressive with black paint.

Was that the solvent or the water-base? and was it on new wood, or over old paint?

You mean 'reassuringly expensive'

Ivor

Oil-based on new wood. No undercoat. The finish is so flat it looks like a stain. But, it's definitely a paint. Not sure they do many colours though.

 

[Penners]

Our gate looks fresh as the day it was painted 7 years ago.

It certainly does! That's remarkable after 7 years, particularly given the winters that we've had in recent years. I've never tried Solignum paint, but I shall certainly be doing so.

 

[paulb33]

Before my conversion to linseed oil paint (Histocolour is good), I used Solignum Architectural. HIGHLY recommended. Albeit obscenely expensive and tough to paint with.
Our gate looks fresh as the day it was painted 7 years ago. Zero degradation. Nil. Nada. Especially impressive with black paint.

Was that the solvent or the water-base? and was it on new wood, or over old paint?

You mean 'reassuringly expensive'

Ivor

Oil-based on new wood. No undercoat. And, only two coats. The finish is so flat it looks like a stain. But, it's definitely a paint. What I love, is that it dries so thin as to retain the character of the wood. No thick build up.

Not sure they do many colours though.

 

[Penners]

Paul - did you use the same Solignum paint on the metalwork on top of the gate? Has it been as effective as on the wood?

 

[paulb33]

Paul - did you use the same Solignum paint on the metalwork on top of the gate? Has it been as effective as on the wood?

NO! The metalwork is a different story. A right royal PAIN. Constantly re-coating it. I went to the trouble of stripping it all back with wire brushes last year. To no avail, its STILL peeling off.

Despite my aversion to it, Hammerite has proven to be the best paint. Trouble is, it goes on too thick and masks detail.

 

[Penners]

Hammerite has proven to be the best paint. Trouble is, it goes on too thick and masks detail.

Have you tried Smoothrite (may just be called Hammerite Smooth these days)? I've found it just as effective but a bit less thick.

 

[paulb33]

Hammerite has proven to be the best paint. Trouble is, it goes on too thick and masks detail.

Have you tried Smoothrite (may just be called Hammerite Smooth these days)? I've found it just as effective but a bit less thick.

Thats what I used this year, Prof. Penners.

 

[Penners]

And still not satisfactory?

 

[paulb33]

Better, but still a bit gloopy. I preferred the International red that I used on the lettering. But, it wasn't as bright/vivid as the Hammerite.

 

[Feltwell]

The cheapo Screwfix "No Nonsense" metal paint that I used on my guttering 6 years ago is lasting really well - it was like smooth Hammerite but thinner. Alas I believe they've now changed it from solvent to water based and its not as good.

Someone on here a while ago who was into classic cars posted up an epoxy metal paint that was supposed to be very good if pricey, if memory serves me right. Who was it, 88v8 perhaps??

 

[zaceverett]

Ive used a product called por15 on my classic car and cant recommend enough. Obviously for metal not wood. Does require a bit of faffing. Wire brush down. Marine clean to get rid of residue. Metal ready sprayed on to prep then two three coats or por15. Not uv stable so should be coated in enamel or paint of your choice.

Once on it aint coming off. Wear gloves when painting it doesnt come off.