Decorating

[matthewjohnlowe]

Hi, I've got a period property (c400 years old), lots of oak beams. Full renovation in progress. Wondered if anyone had tips for decorating? Specifcally painting around the beams (which I've spent a lot of time restoring)? How would you protect them? What sort of paint would you use? Example wall below.

 

[Cubist]

None of the frame timbers should be painted either indoors or out.Doing so introduces a direct threat to the frames timbers and can destroy them. Treat all the exposed timber with an anti-woodworm treatment and when that's dry either leave them alone in their natural state or apply a thin coat of linseed or similar oil - but this will darken and redden the timber slightly.

If the frame is painted outdoors you should aim to remove it at the first opportunity.

 

[Cubist]

Just realised I may have done you a disservice by assuming you meant to pain the timbers rather than the infill panels. The latter bring their own challenges and chief among these is the result of the almost continuous movement of the timbers. This induces cracks and fissures at the junction of the plaster and timbers that must be properly repaired as, in some instances, these can penetrate to the full depth of the infill panel to allow rainwater penetration. Rainwater can also 'track' along the beams and posts to appear some considerable distance from the external point of origin and worse still can accumulate in and around the joints of the timbers to potentially induce rot. Next year I would urge you to examine the exterior to verify the condition of all the seams between the panels and the frame and make any repairs necessary to the caulking and to check the condition and tight fit of all the wooden pegs.

For now though you would be wise, after making good any defects in the plaster, to wash the old, I'm assuming emulsion paint, down with a Sugar Soap solution to remove any surface grime and transfer-oils and lightly abraid the surface with a fine sandpaper to provide a key and remove any unwanted irregularities. Any breathable emulsion type paint can then be used to cover the panels. Masking the timbers will be almost pointless for a variety of reasons so you will need to hone your 'cutting in' skills to get a clean line at the juncture of the timbers and the panels. Don't be too worried about getting a little of the new paint on the timber though, this too is inevitable, and sometimes necessary to cover the errors of your predecessors.

 

[Kearn]

That really depends on what the panel make up is and whether (if modern) it’s causing issues.

Lime should only be line wash or a distemper. Rose of Jericho or Ingilby for genuine breathable products not full of plastic binders.

Most paints nowadays will state they are breathable and give SD values. There’s no legislation on this, and they’re no good for natural lime.

If they’re gypsum and you’re leaving them that way, it doesn’t matter. A clay paint such as Earthborn will give a flatter finish that personally I think suits an old home better.

I can’t agree with Cubist on the timber treatment though - there’s zero need for chemicals. They’re toxic and nasty, and don’t penetrate timber to kill anything. If you had a woodworm/DWB issue then it’s due to timber being too moist. Solve that and the issue goes.

In terms of painting, as said above get yourself good natural bristle brushes, especially a cutting in (slanted one) and you’ll work around the timbers no problem. It is a slow process though… keep a clean twitching brush with water in case you need to remove spillage from timber and some baby wipes, to use after kitchen roll to absorb and drips.

 

[CliffordPope]

, and don’t penetrate timber to kill anything. If you had a woodworm/DWB issue then it’s due to timber being too moist.

I don't think the point is to penetrate. You treat any areas that already show evidence of current infestation so as to kill or deter anything that emerges or that is passing and spots a handy hole? If there is no current infestation then there is arguably no point in treating. Woodworm seem to be social creatures and like to cluster in numbers.

 

[matthewjohnlowe]

Thanks for the speedy advice. Yes it was the infills I was asking about. Wife (wise woman) had already decided on Earthborn paints so glad it's been recommended. Wasn't sure about whether to try and tape up around the timbers and thought it would be a nightmare to try so appreciate the alternative suggestions.

 

[Kearn]

I don't think the point is to penetrate. You treat any areas that already show evidence of current infestation so as to kill or deter anything that emerges or that is passing and spots a handy hole? If there is no current infestation then there is arguably no point in treating. Woodworm seem to be social creatures and like to cluster in numbers.

But if it doesn’t penetrate, as people assume it does, it’s pointless - those emerging, are offski anyway…

the chemicals are pointless, and horribly toxic to add to your living environment.

 

[Kearn]

Thanks for the speedy advice. Yes it was the infills I was asking about. Wife (wise woman) had already decided on Earthborn paints so glad it's been recommended. Wasn't sure about whether to try and tape up around the timbers and thought it would be a nightmare to try so appreciate the alternative suggestions.

They look potentially like lime panels? Earthborn isn’t a truly appropriate finish, and contains plastic binders, again if it’s an internal wall rather than external gable, then that’s less important.

On walls that are appropriate, I’ve used Earthborn and like the coverage and finish. First coats diluted with water can help, as it’s a pretty thick consistency and can be difficult to work with on a thirsty surface!

 

[Lacan07]

Thanks for the speedy advice. Yes it was the infills I was asking about. Wife (wise woman) had already decided on Earthborn paints so glad it's been recommended. Wasn't sure about whether to try and tape up around the timbers and thought it would be a nightmare to try so appreciate the alternative suggestions.

I'm a big fan of taping when painting and renewing mortar joints. When done well it can really give the impression of a professional finish but it has its limitations I suspect in very old houses.

It would be tempting to try and tape those timbers but when you pull the tape will the lines be too straight I wonder? Maybe if you use multiple strips to create the turns and angles....? Its a bit difficult without seeing it in the flesh.

 

[matthewjohnlowe]

They look potentially like lime panels? Earthborn isn’t a truly appropriate finish, and contains plastic binders, again if it’s an internal wall rather than external gable, then that’s less important.

On walls that are appropriate, I’ve used Earthborn and like the coverage and finish. First coats diluted with water can help, as it’s a pretty thick consistency and can be difficult to work with on a thirsty surface!

Would you recommend a different paint for externally facing walls? When we purchased the property it had a lot of water ingress due to roofing issues (now fixed), and I re-plastered large sections with lime mix

 

[Eric56]

Am currently painting similar here.
What helped me and built confidence massively is cutting in with a sash brush. Almost a bubble shaped point. Makes it a LOT easier I found.
No need to tape just a slow and steady hand. Wrap brush and roller in foil between sessions.
I dust then wipe down with damp cloth and washing up liquid.
And then a light sand using random orbital sander connected into my Henry vac. Sorts out all the dents and scratches. Sometimes go again after first coat. Much happier with finish. It is a big job and I praise anyone who attempts it. A day of careful painting around beams is hard work.
Bluetooth speaker and podcasts and regular breaks for tea and biscuits helps me!

 

[Eric56]

I love how this forum encourages people to solve their property issues.
I always thought that good decorating was beyond me. When i had tried before i would get paint all over myself or step in it. I was told that I was "rubbish" and I started to believe it.
But the more hours you spend the better you get. Muscle memory develops. I last decorated in 2009. I was aiming for *
"a room a week" but have now decided "a room in a month" is a lot easier.
As above sash brush was my first good discovery. And this time using the random orbital sander is the other.
Dont be put off we can all do this with the right tools and time and practice!

 

[Cubist]

I learned, perhaps not quickly enough, that no matter how hard I tried and how meticulously I applied the masking tape I would always, always - either fail to cover some of the timber or alternatively I would cover some of the plaster and its original paint. Having grown rapidly bored with my efforts to correct these mistakes I invested in a good sash brush and adopted a much less diffident approach when using it.

Ensuring the brush was properly loaded and applying long confident strokes produced much less effort needed in re-work - technique is everything! And, as Eric says, it can be a therapeutic practice too.

 

[fernicarry]

What helped me and built confidence massively is cutting in with a sash brush. Almost a bubble shaped point. Makes it a LOT easier I found.

+1 for sash brushes especially for moulded areas on joinery (hence the name...). They come in various sizes and you'll need a very small one to get right into those internal corners. Acute corners are one of the few places I use masking tape but only for a short section where even a small brush would be too big. Get the brush close to where you want it and then wiggle it into position, you'll have more control that way.

For longer runs of straight edges use a decent cutting in brush like this. Once you get the hang of loading it up and as @Cubist says use bold strokes you will produce nice smooth straight edges without needing tape. I find relying on tape is usually disappointing. There's always somewhere where its not quite adhered and paint creeps down behind it, or it rips off the finish when you take it off, even the low tack stuff. Best to reserve it for the areas where you just can't manage without it and take extra care over applying it.

And don't get too worked up about it. You'll stop seeing the small mistakes after a while and I guarantee no one else will even notice in the first place.

 

[mardinor]

Top tips:
- use a synthetic brush for water-baed paints, NOT natural bristle (they're for oil only)
- a big brush is much easier for cutting in, counterintuitively, as it holds more paint hence longer continuous strokes. I'd go for a 1.5 or 2" angled flat.
- if you must use masking tape, only use Frog tape - the gel adhesive swells with paint and stops bleeding. Trials on youtube show it really works.

 

[frustin]

Can I jump in on this thread. I have timber framed Georgian house. i'm looking to redecorate the bedrooms i.e. paint the walls. The paint that's already on there, can i just paint over it? it looks like the stuff on there is some sort of matt water based paint. I realise that i can buy a claypaint for breathability but if it's not going straight over the water based and not on the plaster, is there any point?

 

[fernicarry]

only use Frog tape

The green frog tape gets too much of a grip for me. Maybe because I tend to leave it on for days or weeks due to slow rate of progress. If you take it off after a few hours then it might be ok.

The yellow stuff is much better behaved but obviously has a bit less grab. For really low tack I use washi-tec tape.

Whatever you use, if you use it, be very careful removing it. Peel the tape off very slowly doubled back on itself rather than just yanking it straight away from the wall.

 

[Lacan07]

The problem with using tape for edging is the manufacturers don't want you to let the paint dry before you pull it which restricts you to single coats. The trick decorators use is to double coat as close as possible to the tape line first before painting your final edge Line with a loaded brush. This usually hides any differences.

 

[Kearn]

Would you recommend a different paint for externally facing walls? When we purchased the property it had a lot of water ingress due to roofing issues (now fixed), and I re-plastered large sections with lime mix

If you’re after a relatively pale palette and fancy it, make your own limewash. Cheap as chips - tubs of putty, then 1 part to 3 water, the colour will depend on the putty unless you add in natural pigments. You can’t add too much pigment though as with no binder, limewash won’t take it. So the counts will be pale and muted. I’d doing it, mix the pigment thoroughly with a small amount of water to fully dissolve before adding in and try to make the full amount you need in one go, to minimise variations. Unless you don’t mind them.

I could never bring myself to post for limewash, there’s some still in colouring in, but you’re paying for a product and expensive shipping, that’s 75% water.

The more flexible option is a distemper, casein bound rather than soft if you’re a normal household with people living in it! The binder can carry far more colour. Check Ingilby and Rise of Jericho - both very educated and will talk you through whatever you need on the phone. You need to buy a colour chart, but it is hand painted with actual product.

 

[CliffordPope]

Top tips:

- a big brush is much easier for cutting in, counterintuitively, as it holds more paint hence longer continuous strokes. I'd go for a 1.5 or 2" angled flat.

I agree absolutely. Confidence and a big loaded brush are the way, not faffing around with a tiny pointed brush. The technique, I have found, is to create a kind of mini tidal-wave and to flow it in as the brush passes very close. At a sharp corner you stop and reverse in, sort of scrunching the bristles a bit so you concentrate the wave into a point. Keep a cloth damp with whatever solvent the paint uses handy, and a dry one, and mop any faults quickly before the painf has time to stain unwanted bits.

My father's method on windows was the worst. He overlapped the paint onto the glass, then when it was dry scraped it off with an old razor blade. All our windows had permanent scratch marks as a result.