Bathroom Floorboards: gaps & caulking?

[jungle_jim01]

Hi, just a quick question put out there....

I've sanded a floor in what will be the bathroom. We're going to keep the original boards and varnish. I'm trying to find something to use to fill the thin gaps between the boards (approx 2mm). I read about using sisal twine, then pouring on some watered down pva. I've tried a small section, it's filled the gap but results don't look that impressive, so just wondering if anyone has any advice or tips...or any alternatives or easier options?

Thanks

 

[Lime]

Using pva will cause you to damage the boards next time they have to come up.
Polyfilla?
It has the qualities you need, perhaps needs sealing and colouring after drying, but sealing the wood will seal the pollyfilla too.
You could try dry colour powder in the mix prior to adding water.

 

[Lime]

However, no matter what you use (except floorboard wood), the gaps between the floorboards will always look like gaps.
IME the best way to remove the gaps is to re-lay the floor.

 

[jungle_jim01]

Yeah it's not worth relaying the floor for us. i just want to put something in that will make a good seal when varnished and will look ok. I was wondering if there was any type of flexible filler that would work?

 

[Lime]

Well, you have little to lose if you fill the gap with a silicone sealant, wait for it to harden, then use a sharp knife to cut it off flush.
Re-sand the floor a little then seal.

 

[biffvernon]

If you do nothing for a few decades you find that the gaps have become naturally filled. Hair, fluff from belly-buttons, mud, etc. It's the period property way.

 

[tobydog]

I vaguely remember Mrs. Beeny suggesting once that you mix the dirty saw dust collected from the sander (probably too late now) with wood glue to make a paste and use that as a filler. Not done it myself as we are following the biffvernon guide to period property DIY and hygene!!

 

[Moo]

But I can remember several people pointing out that any filling is quite likely to end up coming detached from the boards and falling out.
If it's an empty room, surely it'd be much simpler (and, in the end, quicker) to lift the boards and re-lay them. If it's going to be a bathroom, the end gap could be filled in with a new board that would be hidden under the bath.
But I'd still be worried about a boarded floor in a bathroom.

 

[Feltwell]

Big disclaimer - not used them, don't know 'owt 'bout them. etc etc - but worth a look?

http://oldpinecompany.co.uk/acatalog/About_Old_Pine_Slivers.html

 

[Lime]

If you do nothing for a few decades you find that the gaps have become naturally filled. Hair, fluff from belly-buttons, mud, etc. It's the period property way.

Wot! No hairgrips?

 

[Lime]

I vaguely remember Mrs. Beeny suggesting once that you mix the dirty saw dust collected from the sander (probably too late now) with wood glue to make a paste and use that as a filler. Not done it myself as we are following the biffvernon guide to period property DIY and hygene!!

I tried this.
It doesn't work.
The hardened wood dust turns much darker in colour.

 

[AMc]

If the gaps are truly only a couple of mill then I would look at a caulk/sealant. I bought some dark brown frame sealant to deal with some gaps on our stairs when I sanded them but chickened out in the end and left it.
Alternatively something with a bit of compression that can be squeezed into the gap and cut level - cork flooring perhaps?

 

[jungle_jim01]

I've seen a couple of comments online about using sawdust with linseed oil to fill gaps prior to varnishing. As its t&g flooring i'm thinking i might give a light sand, brush the dust into the gaps and the linseed oil the floor. Hopefully this will bind the dust slightly and also help to protect the floorboards. I'm thinking of applying a few coats of yacht varnish so this should seal the floor and level any remaining gaps....any thoughts?

 

[Feltwell]

I have to say, I think brown caulk looks awful - having used some myself to seal round a modern window here.

Has anyone tried those "sliver" things I mentioned above? I'd be interested to find out how they ended up looking.

I for one avoid lifting floorboards unless I absolutely have to - where they are held down by original cut clasp nails I find it very difficult to lift them without damaging some.

 

[jungle_jim01]

The slivers look good but i reckon the gaps are a bit tight for that in this room. Might use it the attic at some point though.

 

[Louis Henry]

I've used slivers of wood and papier mache but nothing really works as the floorboards get so much wider in summer and narrower in winter when the heating's on. I used to lose my toothbrush down the cracks between our 14 inch wide square edge floorboards.

 

[biffvernon]

I've seen a couple of comments online about using sawdust with linseed oil to fill gaps prior to varnishing. As its t&g flooring i'm thinking i might give a light sand, brush the dust into the gaps and the linseed oil the floor. Hopefully this will bind the dust slightly and also help to protect the floorboards.

That is what I call a Good Plan. It's a sort of speeded up version of my earlier suggestion.

(Hair-grips optional.)

 

[jungle_jim01]

thanks for all the advice i'll let you know how it works out

 

[Moo]

I take back my reservations about your boarded bathroom. When I wrote the message I didn't realise that they were T&G (which would be a real pain to take up!)

xx M

 

[MattW]

Has anyone tried those "sliver" things I mentioned above? I'd be interested to find out how they ended up looking.

Yes, I've used them where I had 2-4mm gaps. They are very effective and easy to use but needless to say they don't match the colour,of the boards they sit between (pine varies in colour a lot naturally, oxidisation over years then has impact etc). Personally I don't mind they are obvious - its all part of the history of the house that the floor was repaired.

I'm not at home right now but could take a picture if helpful on how it looks 18 months on.