Advice needed regarding how to cut engineering bricks.

[plasticpigeon]

Hello Stuart, I had been thinking about gauge rods but the foundations are very uneven, but of course fixing pieces of wood would get around that. Do you fix them into the bottom course or into the foundation concrte please (I am guessing the bottom course)?

 

[stuart45]

Once you have got some foundation courses up the 2x1 battens can be fixed to the brickwork at various points round the wall. As long as the tops of the battens are all dead level the brickwork will always be level all the way round as long as you keep it spot on to the gauge rod.

 

[stuart45]

One thing I forgot to mention was about getting the bricks level in between. Normally when using the level for building a corner etc you place the level at the front edge of the bricks as this is the impotant bit to be right. When bricks are mishaped putting the level through the centres means the edges may be out.
On curved work the level will only be on the outside edges in a few places at the ends so although you are keeping the work roughly level, it does sometimes show up when it's finished and you look along the bed joints. This is especially true when more rustic bricks, although even with more uniforn bricks you can see it.
A few years ago I got one of the chippies to knock me up a curved straight edge which went from the bricks set at the datum pegs, so I could use it to keep the face of the bricks spot on for level. It did make quite a difference to the finished job.

 

[plasticpigeon]

Thanks for the advice. I minght try and knock a curved straight edge up. The bricks are a bit rustic so will hopefully hide and irregularities.

 

[Toby Newell]

You do know you now owe all of us some future pictures of all your hard work.

No pressure.

 

[plasticpigeon]

At a morning a week I haven't got far yet! One and a half courses. I definitely need to make a curved straight edge. So far I think it could be neater, but all I have laid so far will be underground, but I am hoping to improve my technique with experience, and the more rustic bricks I'm using for the visible part will hopefully be a little more tolerant to amateur bricklaying. I shall post photos when decent progress has been made!

 

[Toby Newell]

I wasn't rushing you! Just saying.

I am pretty certain it will look great. Making a curved straight edge sounds tricky.

As much as it is slightly semantically incongruous.

You need a friend with a plasma cutter and a very good pair of sunglasses.

 

[stuart45]

Curved work should never be rushed. The trammel should keep it plumb. The hard bit is getting the courses level. Using the level does not pick up on the front edges of the bricks, so although it is roughly level the courses can look a bit out. Anything that has a straight bottom edge and can be bent to the shape of the curve and fixed can be used. Set a brick with the gauge rod at each datum point and then check the front edges of the brickwork with it, rather than going across with the level.

 

[plasticpigeon]

This was a question I was asking myself. How far apart shoudl I put the datum bricks? I found 2 ft about right but wondered if I should try and make the distance bigger as it will make laying faster. To save time I am thinking of jointing as I go along, but I realise this may make the mortar a bit patchy. It is a good idea or would pointing after it is built be preferable? Many thanks.

 

[stuart45]

I usually set the datum pegs about 3ft apart on a curve of that size. You could rake out the joints and point them up at the end of the job which would keep a uniform colour.

 

[plasticpigeon]

Ok thanks, I think I will do that as this wall's only purpose is to look nice!!!!

 

[plasticpigeon]

Hello, it's been ages since my last post about this, and progress has been very slow due to bad weather at the beginning of the year, then very hot weather which is not ideal for building, and I only work for 4 hours on a Sunday morning, but the wall is about half built now so i thought I would post a photo of progress as suggested earlier on in this post! The bottom 2 courses are cheap engineering bricks and will be underground. The foundations below that are about concrete 20cm deep and 30cm wide. there are deliberate gaps in the vertical joints for drainage and the small gaps in the bed joints are for a gauge rod that I have made up. I should have done it earler in the build but I was lazy. Thanks to everyone, especially Stuart, for the advice. Here is the wall so far.

 

[stuart45]

That looks like a really neat and professional job. Especially as a lot of pro bricklayers struggle with curved work.

 

[skier-hughes]

Brilliant work, well done, you should be well proud.