Am going to fit a new oak worktop. The wood is very light coloured, as is oak, and I preferably want to keep it like that. Now I have read the recommendations to use Danish oil but not having used it before am unsure if it imparts a yellowish colour. I have seen the coloured oils which I definitely do not want so is the "clear " version suitable. I fully accept there will be some degree of darkening but I want to minimise it.
- Thread starter Bogart
- Start date
Don't use Danish oil. It is really a varnish, given the amount of dissolved solids and the thickness of its build-up on the surface, and it goes quite a nasty stale-urine orange/ yellow colour over time. Personally I'd go for the white-tinted osmo oil, because it is non-yellowing itself, is UV resistant, and the tint helps counteract the long term colour change you can expect from any exposed timber. The key thing with Osmo, and any of the wax-oils, is to apply it as thinly as possible. Do NOT be tempted to build up thick layers: it goes sticky, and you can never polish/ burnish it to a hard finish. It will need re-coating intermittently, and, as with any treatment to any timber, it should always be the same all round (ie to all surfaces and edges) to avoid differential movement between surfaces, thus cupping. Same principle as always washing both sides of a wooden chopping board.
Abi Cott
Member
- Messages
- 561
- Location
- West Yorkshire
I've been quite impressed with these products. I've used the gel a lot on displays at work.
http://www.wocashop.co.uk/Woca-all-products/Woca-for-worktops-furniture
They recommend using the oil to build up a patina in the first year and then switching to the gel which is FAR more user friendly.
I've been using the 'natural' finish on a range of wood worktops (beech, oak, walnut, thermo-ash) mainly because its what we were given as free samples, it does a lovely job of bringing out the natural tones and variations in the wood without too much yellowing. However if I were buying it for myself I would probably choose the white option for the lighter woods.
http://www.wocashop.co.uk/Woca-all-products/Woca-for-worktops-furniture
They recommend using the oil to build up a patina in the first year and then switching to the gel which is FAR more user friendly.
I've been using the 'natural' finish on a range of wood worktops (beech, oak, walnut, thermo-ash) mainly because its what we were given as free samples, it does a lovely job of bringing out the natural tones and variations in the wood without too much yellowing. However if I were buying it for myself I would probably choose the white option for the lighter woods.
Abi Cott
Member
- Messages
- 561
- Location
- West Yorkshire
Disclaimer
I don't work for the company I recommended, but I think they might be the supplier of some of our worktops. Hence the free samples.
I've used a variety of other products over the years including Danish oil, and even boiled linseed oil off the shelf to try and keep the displays looking half way decent. The gel has genuinely impressed me. Easy to use. Non yellowing and the finish lasts a longer time on the display than other products I've tried.
I don't work for the company I recommended, but I think they might be the supplier of some of our worktops. Hence the free samples.
I've used a variety of other products over the years including Danish oil, and even boiled linseed oil off the shelf to try and keep the displays looking half way decent. The gel has genuinely impressed me. Easy to use. Non yellowing and the finish lasts a longer time on the display than other products I've tried.