Woodwork Paint Preparation..

[thecottage]

Ok, a couple of question reainting woodwork internal and external..

1. is there a degree of character/protection with many paint layers that so long as they are soundly atttached it is better to sand down and recoat than strip right back and start again.
2. The timber windows on the back of my house are badly in need of repainting, with many rotted glazing bars and exposed sections of timber where the paint is lifting. Is there anything I can do at this time of year to shelter/protect them from further deterioration or just pray for spring to come round asap.
3. Has anyone used those infra red lamps for stripping paint off detailed window bars and mouldings etc? are they a much better (gentler) way than a hot air blower type? again regarding external paint where it is cracked down to the timber is it a case of strip it all right back to get a level timber base and build up from there. thanks in advance, Ian

 

[biffvernon]

2. I would leave it till spring, trusting that rot slows down in low temperatures. Then repaint with real linseed oil paint. See all the useful information at Holkham Paints and believe it.

 

[Nemesis]

1. is there a degree of character/protection with many paint layers that so long as they are soundly atttached it is better to sand down and recoat than strip right back and start again.

There is a school of thought which says yes. It's sound conservation. However, if the wood is so clogged that moulding details are blurred then at times yes stripping off can be done. But do leave some for future generations to see what has been done over the decades, and keep a record too of discoveries.

Take care with old paint which contains lead.

3. Has anyone used those infra red lamps for stripping paint off detailed window bars and mouldings etc? are they a much better (gentler) way than a hot air blower type? again regarding external paint where it is cracked down to the timber is it a case of strip it all right back to get a level timber base and build up from there. thanks in advance, Ian

No but I'd like to - I know that they are expensive but they are excellent for softening putty so old glass can be re-used.

 

[chuckey]

With old gloss work I always flatten it down with 120/180 grade ali oxide paper. It gets off old dribbles and grain marks and general grot and provides a good key for your undercoat.
Frank

 

[Penners]

But as Nemesis said above, do take care with sanding old gloss paint. It may very well be lead-based. Wear a high quality dust mask, and if you want to prevent dust altogether use well wetted wet-and-dry paper.