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Wood Plastering Float
- Thread starter Rick W
- Start date
biffvernon
Member
- Messages
- 4,607
- Location
- Lincolnshire
No varnish - it would soon rub off. Don't add any finish. I made mine from oak 'cos that's what I had. It isn't cross-grained.
Gervase
Member
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- 1,500
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- North London
Cross grained is for rubbing up and closing cracks on plaster; for laying on you use a straight-grain float.
That's the easiest to make - you can get away with pine (the closer grained the better) although beech is flatter. Just use a piece of three-quarter or one-inch board and bung a handle on the back with which you feel comfortable. They wear out pretty quickly, so it's not worth doing fancy joinery unless you've got a good workshop and time on your hands.
Cross-grained floats are tricker because of their tendency to warp. You need to dovetail in a piece of hardwood with the grain runnng the length of the float to keep it straight, and the handle is bonded to that. For that you will need a bit of time, a good router and a good eye.
That's the easiest to make - you can get away with pine (the closer grained the better) although beech is flatter. Just use a piece of three-quarter or one-inch board and bung a handle on the back with which you feel comfortable. They wear out pretty quickly, so it's not worth doing fancy joinery unless you've got a good workshop and time on your hands.
Cross-grained floats are tricker because of their tendency to warp. You need to dovetail in a piece of hardwood with the grain runnng the length of the float to keep it straight, and the handle is bonded to that. For that you will need a bit of time, a good router and a good eye.
biffvernon
Member
- Messages
- 4,607
- Location
- Lincolnshire
I've just bought a plastic one (well it came free with a watering can at a car boot). Havn't tried it out yet. I can see it may have the advantage of being much lighter than a wooden one.