windows - repair or replace

[Antwerpman]

I need to renovate/replace the windows on my house as they are partly rotten. Renovation would be possible but they were pretty poorly fitting and I am not sure how effective renovation would be at reducing the drafts, etc. The main problems are 4 large sash windows downstairs which are in arched windows approximately 2.5 metres high by 1.8 metres wide.

Yesterday I took one of them out and although sound except for the cills/bottom of the window, I was surprised by how loosely fitting they all were.

It made me think that perhaps it would be better to remake them to the original design, but incorporating seals to improve their draft proofing and improve the general fit/tolerance between the various parts.

What are peoples opinions, and with regard to remaking them, does anyone have any tips on profiles, tolerances etc which would give the best results?

 

[Penners]

Good conservation practice is always to repair, rather than replace, if this is at all possible. Besides, when you talk about remaking them, I'm not sure whether you mean doing this yourself, or getting new ones made. If it's the latter, I suspect that the cost will be considerable.

 

[Antwerpman]

I was looking at remaking them myself using the old ones as a basis but incorporating any improvements I could find in terms of sealing/draught proofing.

My only concern about refurbishing them is how well I can seal then on a long term basis

 

[Penners]

how well I can seal then on a long term basis

When you say "seal" I presume you mean draughtproof. I'm afraid sash windows are notoriously difficult to completely draughtproof, but I seem to remember a friend once using some long strips of bristle, set into a thin metal bar, that worked quite well. How and where you fix them would depend on the configuration of your window.

 

[Ian Bond]

I had my new sashes draught-proofed.

They used plastic strips with fibre attached to them to seal the gaps. The strips were fixed into rebates in the meeting rails, and the bottom rail of the inner sash, plus the parting beads.

It has stopped the rattles and cut down the draughts.

However, I did not do this to the original sashes as I did not want them altered.

I'd be inclined to repair if possible. My original 1830s softwood window had been badly neglected for decades, but only the cills and lower bits of the sashes had rotted much at all. The glazing bars were reasonably OK, and the upper parts of sash and frame were fine.

 

[Antwerpman]

Ok after a lot of reading on the internet I decided that refurbishment is the best way forward. There are some very interesting USA sites which cover at least the basics of repair and seeing what they were fixing (much worse than mine) and the results they achieved I decided to give it a go.

I have found a lot of places that sell the bristle draft proofing strips and various rubber/plastic profiles, but on some of the sites they mention metal `v` draft proofing strips as the best - I cant seem to find any UK suppliers of this, does anyone have any pointers to suppliers? I feel that this may take up the slack in the windows better than the other types.

If I fail to find this I will probably go for the bristles-my main concern being that the plastic strips will probably increase friction too much and not adapt to imperfections as well as the bristles - does this sound reasonable or can anyone speak from experience about the best solution?

 

[biffvernon]

The gap is critical but brush pile draught excluder can make sashes glide very smoothly.

 

[Antwerpman]

Biff

what sort of gap should there be between the sliding sash and the window frame?

Cheers

Graeme

 

[biffvernon]

Ah, well, er, just enough to let them slide easily but not too much so they let a gale in. Maybe 3mm each side. Takes a bit of trial and error. Shove a bit of brush pile in place without taking the backing strip off first to see if you've got it right. And then dimensions of wood change with the seasons. I'ts a black art.

 

[worms]

Antwerpman, it would be interesting to have a look at the US sites you mention. Can you post the URL(s)?

 

[Antwerpman]

Thanks Biff, the current gaps are larger than 3mm at the moment, more like 5-10, but I am sure I can do something with weather sealing to make them a lot better.

Worms, some of the sites I looked at include:-

http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detailed/12216.shtml

http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/How-To/Windows/
(different page from the above site)

http://www.cardigan-heritage.co.uk/Timbwin03.doc
Not US but interesting read - found the same document published by several local authorities

http://www.lulu.com/JohnLeeke
A book from the US - didnt buy it but saw referrals to it in a couple of sites

http://www.historichomeworks.com/hhw/reports/reports.htm
same book but you can download from this site

http://enonhall.com/v-web/bulletin/bb/index.php
US conservation forum

http://www.silentpaintremover.com/index.htm
Interesting Infra red paint remover, I have the feeling it is of scandinavian origin, maybe from the originators of Holkoms linseed paints

http://www.woodweb.com/KnowledgeBase/KBAMDoorsWindows.html
Woodworkers forum which was generally interesting and had a lot of articles in their `knowledge base`

There were quite a few others but unfortunately I didnt keep the URL`s
I also have a lot of links to weatherseals if anyone is interested, including a very unique US one which also sells a specially adapted router to route out weatherseal grooves at 45 degrees in corners which you can see HERE

 

[Antwerpman]

forgot this site which is from the author of the books linked to above

http://www.historichomeworks.com/hhw/index.htm