Window sealant - putty or not putty

[kreyszig]

So - I'm in the middle of repainting (from bare wood) my bathroom sash window and in typical snowball fashion I have decided to redo the putty while I'm at it.
I have a can of sikkens rubol primer plus which I am using as a primer on the rest of the timber, but have just re-read the product sheet and it states that it is not recommended for use on Linseed oil putty, which is what I was planning to use.
It asks for "a suitable sealant in accordance with section 4.2 of the Glass and Glazing Federation manual together with BS 8000-7 : 1990 Workmanship on Building Sites and BS 6262 : 1982."

My choices then are to either change primer and use linseed putty or find a suitable sealant as above. Does anyone know of a readily available sealant that meets the above criteria, and would you use it on a period house? I seem to find double glazing sealants when I google the above.

Otherwise, recommendations for a good primer that I can use on linseed oil putty would be well received.

Also if anyone can hold off the impending cold snap, I'd be most grateful

 

[plasticpigeon]

I can't really help but I can think of two avenues that might be worth exploring. Would butyl putty work with the paint? I'm not certain but I think it can be used as a face putty. How about priming the linseed putty with shellac that is a good barrier for most things as it is pretty inert.

 

[kreyszig]

butyl and metal casement putty are on the prohibited list for this primer too unfortunately.
I'll see what I can find out about shellac

edit: the reason the sikkens stuff is not recommended on linseed putty is because it is vapour permeable, and the oils in the putty can escape. So I am tempted to just use what I have since the top coat is not going to be sikkens.
Funnily enough I found zinsser BIN which is shellac based, might give that a go

 

[88v8]

The rebates also need priming before puttying of course.................

Will be 30 days before you can overcoat the linseed putty, so you have plenty of time to sort something.

I just had some metal windows glazed with linseed, will be overoated with AZ Rubbol, or perhaps 2-pack epoxy although the mixing of it is such a faff :?


Ivor

 

[kreyszig]

The "Linseed Oil" putty at b&q (Vallance) reckons it's paintable in 24 hours - any reason I should avoid this?
It contains synthetic rubbers according to the data sheet

 

[88v8]

Normally, putty takes about a month to skin so it can be painted without dragging. If that stuff skins faster, so be it.
I'd hesitate to use anything 'new' like this on a hard-to-get-at window, in case durability has been compromised in the interests of speed.

Ivor

 

[kreyszig]

Thanks Ivor. Thankfully it's all quite easy to get at from the inside, only a small window so I suppose it can be a bit of a test bed.
I don't think not having a bathroom window for another month would go down too well with the boss - this was supposed to be a weekend job!

 

[plasticpigeon]

if it dries in 24hrs i'll eat my hat!

 

[Feltwell]

if it dries in 24hrs i'll eat my hat!

You can have mine as well PP!

I'm usually able to paint over linseed putty - but with linseed paint - after about a week, it's just skinned over enough then to be able to do it without damaging the surface.

Before using linseed paint, I've painted over putty after about a month in colder weather with bog standard Dulux exterior primer with no great problems.

I've given up on external painting now until the spring - linseed paint that I've put on my garage didn't appreciate getting cold whilst it was still wet, it's set OK but a big patch is matt rather than gloss. It needs painting over when there's no frost danger, trouble at the moment is that whenever it's warm enough it's then too likely to rain to risk it. I need 48 hours of no front, no rain weather A job for the Easter weekend if I'm lucky!

 

[kreyszig]

You chaps were correct - on the b&q website the drying time is 24hrs - on the package it's 20 days!