Window Hinges

[Anonymous]

Can anyone point me in the direction of a website for a replacement "hinge" for a modern wood-frame window? The hinge in question is one of these cantilevered fittings that runs in a track in a rebate on the sides of the frame. One of the plastic slides has broken so that side now doesn't work and the window can't shut completely. I've checked the usual diy sites without seeing anything remotely similar. So where do the commercial guys get them? Or am I better going to the original window company and seeing if they will sell one (or convince them to give me one on a good-will windows-should-last-more-than-15-years basis)?

 

[Anonymous]

Try:
ironmongerydirect.com

they have a pretty good range.

 

[Anonymous]

Let that be a warning to the rest of us. Have no truck with any of these newfangled things - especially if they've got plastic in 'em.

 

[Anonymous]

Bod,

Thanks for this. Now that I know it is actually called a "variable geometry friction hinge" it is easier to find!

Moo,

While I agree in principle, these hinges are well thought of by the BRE and the "National Green Specification" - see greenspec.co.uk. This particular hinge has failed on its design spec - but I suspect that this is because it has probably been opened only a handful of times in its 15 years life and a little more use and a dot of oil would have allowed the plastic slide to move and not break. You would like the single-glazed wooden window, the Grade III listed building and the conservation village setting that the window is in, even if you dislike the hinge!

Interesting research paper on this:



Research Paper

 

[Anonymous]

Worms - I was only teasing, really. (But I still don't trust plastic as much as iron and brass)

Thanks for the PDF, though. Really interesting. I've saved copy.

 

[Anonymous]

Can't really see that brassmongery has any competition for the hinges. But fasteners and stays? Here's real ironmongery. Plasticmongery just doesn't ring true.

 

[Anonymous]

That's odd - I'm sitting right beside a window which looks just like that, with exactly those lovely bits of ironmongery... but the view out is not the same at all.

 

[Anonymous]

Yeah, they're dead common. How was Bill?

 

[Anonymous]

Terrific!

A really very nice man indeed.

 

[Anonymous]

Biff, nice photo and window! I'm green with envy!

I've been putting off replacing parts of my casements due to the compexity of the joints. From your photo it looks like you have a mitred (presumably morticed?) joint on the frame and I can't quite make out the joint on the window - is it a straight mortice and tenon? Also looks like the routed edge may have been done after assembly?

The windows that I have that need work are 60 year old "stile and rail" with mortices and wedged tenons. I don't think my routing ability would be up to matching the existing set-up but I might manage your approach. I wouldn't ask you to give away trade secrets but confirmation that I can go with simpler joints would be nice!

 

[Anonymous]

No, Worms, its all moulded plastic.

Oh. allright the frame corners are mortice and tennon. The beading is mitred, and the moulding is done with a roman ogee bit in the router and then the corners straightend with a bit of deft chisleing. I don't use the traditional wedged tennons, which are suitable for softwoods, as the oak is too hard and stiff for a wedge to go anywhere. Modern glues are so much stronger when left out in the rain than animal glue so I don't bother with pegs.

 

[Anonymous]

Many Thanks for the response - in fact you've answered a couple of extra questions in there too! (glue & pegs!)

 

[Anonymous]

I usually use what used to be called Cascamite. Screwfix, helpfully, now call it Resin Wood Glue, having dallied with the name Extramite for a while. White powdered urea formaldehyde, just add water to taste, not the most environmentally benign substance on the planet but it's very strong and rainproof.