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FamilyWiggs
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Have a look at Holkham linseed oil paints. I've used Old English white (or something similar - can't quite remember the name and I'm some distance from the tin just now).
They're lovely paints and just the thing for wooden windows.
They're lovely paints and just the thing for wooden windows.
biffvernon
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I think it's called just 'Old White'. It has a trace of iron oxide added to the titanium dioxide pigment to subdue the otherwise Bright White.
Don't use anything other than real linseed oil paint. That made by Alback of Sweden and supplied by Holkhams is the best I know of. It has a high vapour permeability so will allow the timber to remain dry. Do not be put off by the apparent cost. It goes about twice as far and lasts more than twice as long as most of the rest.
Don't use anything other than real linseed oil paint. That made by Alback of Sweden and supplied by Holkhams is the best I know of. It has a high vapour permeability so will allow the timber to remain dry. Do not be put off by the apparent cost. It goes about twice as far and lasts more than twice as long as most of the rest.
JoceAndChris
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Can I just clarify that this paint needs to go on top of bare wood, right? So the typical exterior wood primer and undercoat is not used?
I'll be doing my windows at some point, I'd like to use linseed oil paint but am under the impression I'd need to strip off all previous finishes.
I'll be doing my windows at some point, I'd like to use linseed oil paint but am under the impression I'd need to strip off all previous finishes.
JoceAndChris
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Oh, OK - I just found the answer to this in "The Old House Handbook":
"Good-quality lead paints based on traditional lead carbonate are still in production; they are arguably the most durable finish available for external joinery. Because of their toxicity, however, they are permitted for use only on certain listed buildings.
Modern paints based on linseed oil are the next best thing... These are eco-frindly and can be blended for a greater colour palette. They are best applied to either sound lead paint or bare wood surfaces in order to gain the full benefit of the paint. These paints vary, but it is commmon practice to use raw linseed oil as a primer. This can either be applied hot, by warming it on the stove prior to application, or applied cold and then heated up with a hot air gun in situ.
Linseed oil paints should be applied in very thin layers, otherwise they simply form a skin on the surface and remain soft beneath. Allow each layer to dry thoroughly, and lightly sand between coats. Three thin layers will usually suffice. Linseed oil paints take longer to dry than most of today's "plastic" paints and should not be applied in cold, damp weather."
So, unless you have all new windows put in I just can't see how you'd make linseed oil paint work. You'd need to strip all external joinery, and paint the lot to get a match. That is a massive, and in some properties, nigh-on impossible job. Even just to paint all the external joinery in one summer would be pretty hard to achieve.That means you'd be carrying pots of paint over from one summer to the next - fine if you just buy "Old White", but what if you've blended your own colour of sagey green? How could you get a true match each time?
"Good-quality lead paints based on traditional lead carbonate are still in production; they are arguably the most durable finish available for external joinery. Because of their toxicity, however, they are permitted for use only on certain listed buildings.
Modern paints based on linseed oil are the next best thing... These are eco-frindly and can be blended for a greater colour palette. They are best applied to either sound lead paint or bare wood surfaces in order to gain the full benefit of the paint. These paints vary, but it is commmon practice to use raw linseed oil as a primer. This can either be applied hot, by warming it on the stove prior to application, or applied cold and then heated up with a hot air gun in situ.
Linseed oil paints should be applied in very thin layers, otherwise they simply form a skin on the surface and remain soft beneath. Allow each layer to dry thoroughly, and lightly sand between coats. Three thin layers will usually suffice. Linseed oil paints take longer to dry than most of today's "plastic" paints and should not be applied in cold, damp weather."
So, unless you have all new windows put in I just can't see how you'd make linseed oil paint work. You'd need to strip all external joinery, and paint the lot to get a match. That is a massive, and in some properties, nigh-on impossible job. Even just to paint all the external joinery in one summer would be pretty hard to achieve.That means you'd be carrying pots of paint over from one summer to the next - fine if you just buy "Old White", but what if you've blended your own colour of sagey green? How could you get a true match each time?
FamilyWiggs
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Joce - yep; no point putting linseed paints on top of a plastic paint. A pain for you, but I know how much you enjoy stripping wood!
The only preparation I did for my new wooden windows was a couple of coats of linseed oil first (again the Holkham stuff) and then thin coats of paint.
With regards colour matching, I think you'll find the colour fades a little from one year to the next anyway, so unless you paint everything in one go there will always be some variation. Theres not a lot of repainting to do year on year; my understanding of the maintenance schedule (still only on year 2!) is:
Year 1 Oil and paint windows;
Year 2 Enjoy
Year 3 Enjoy
Year 4 Enjoy
Year 5 Enjoy
Year 6 Enjoy
Year 7 Enjoy
Year 8 Oil windows
Year 9 Enjoy
Year 10 Enjoy
Year 11 Enjoy
Year 12 Enjoy
Year 13 Enjoy
Year 14 Enjoy
Year 15 Lightly sand, oil and paint windows
Repeat.
This is the kind of schedule I can manage!
The only preparation I did for my new wooden windows was a couple of coats of linseed oil first (again the Holkham stuff) and then thin coats of paint.
With regards colour matching, I think you'll find the colour fades a little from one year to the next anyway, so unless you paint everything in one go there will always be some variation. Theres not a lot of repainting to do year on year; my understanding of the maintenance schedule (still only on year 2!) is:
Year 1 Oil and paint windows;
Year 2 Enjoy
Year 3 Enjoy
Year 4 Enjoy
Year 5 Enjoy
Year 6 Enjoy
Year 7 Enjoy
Year 8 Oil windows
Year 9 Enjoy
Year 10 Enjoy
Year 11 Enjoy
Year 12 Enjoy
Year 13 Enjoy
Year 14 Enjoy
Year 15 Lightly sand, oil and paint windows
Repeat.
This is the kind of schedule I can manage!
JoceAndChris
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Oh, God. Maybe you should be PM. You're putting a very positive spin on that!
FamilyWiggs
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JoceAndChris said:
A very sore topic in Wiggs Towers. This was supposed to be "my" election.....
