Which wax for Oak doors?

[Tom]

I need to start waxing our room and wardrobe doors but I'm not sure which wax to use. I do know that I'm going to need litres and litres of it, though!! My joiner has recommended Fiddes Supreme http://www.fiddes.co.uk/content/supreme-wax-polish.html applied neat with a cloth and built up, using 2-3 coats. Does anyone have any thoughts (good or bad) on this? Or any other recommendations? I don't know if it makes a difference but I'll be using a clear wax rather than coloured. My joiner has said that if I use a different wax, other than Fiddes, I need to look for a high build wax to fill some of the shrinkage cracks that have appeared. Does this sound correct?

Here's an example of the doors;

Thank you for any help / advice.

Jaqy

 

[biffvernon]

Bees'.

 

[Penners]

I agree with Biff's verbose response.

Beeswax can be applied to give you as much build as you want, and - depending on how much you buff it - as much sheen as you want.

And it smells mmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

 

[Tom]

OK, thanks, but....what's the difference between Bees' and any other, for example Fiddes'? And, does anyone know where the cheapest place is for Beeswax, preferably in large quantities as I need lots!

Thanks
Jaqy

 

[biffvernon]

OK, thanks, but....what's the difference between Bees' and any other

Bees' wax is made by bees. Others probably comes from some dirty old oil well.

Cheapest source might be from a beekeeper. Add a few drops of genuine turpentine if you want it the spread straight from the fridge.

I'd give the door a coat or three of linseed oil first and then use wax.

(Don't try putting oil on after wax.)

 

[Tom]

Hi Biff

Thanks for your reply. I certainly don't want to be using anything from a dirty old oil well, so Beeswax it is!

What are the benefits of applying Linseed Oil first? And, how long do I leave between coats? Do you just brush it on and leave it? How thin or thickly do I apply it? I'd be very grateful for any advice.

Many thanks
Jaqy

 

[Tom]

Biff, since writing the above I've had a quick look on Google and many sites are saying don't use Boiled Linseed Oil but, rather, Unboiled. Would you agree? Also, I've read that Linseed Oil will darken or blacken the Oak...is this true?

Also, does the Linseed Oil need thinning with anything?

I'm sorry for asking so many questions but I'd really appreciate your advice. What I really need is an Idiot's Guide To Properly Finishing Oak Doors

Jaqy

 

[Schoolmarm]

Raw I think, yes it will alter the shade so test a bit first that you can't see in the room.

Heat it to 60 degrees C for the best penetration,(oo-er :shock: )

 

[biffvernon]

Frankly, I don't think it makes a great deal of difference whether you use raw or boiled linseed oil. More important is that it's a good quality. I use the Swedish stuff that Holkhams sell. Boiled is meant to dry quicker but I use the raw and find that that the first coat is touch dry in 24 hours. Paint it on thinly - enough to soak in but not leaving any puddles. The oil makes oak a nice colour, a bit darker but certainly no blackening. Cheap oil that includes proteins may cause darkening as slime moulds like to eat it.
Don't thin it.

Summing up: I use a couple of coats of Holkhams raw linseed oil with a couple of days to dry and then beeswax if I want a luxury finnish.

(Beeswax is a great lubricant for sliding window sashes, saw tables, planers, saws, planes, ice skates, surfboards...)

 

[Tom]

Excellent, Biff, thank you so much. Just ordered 10 litres from Holkams. Now to find a Bee Keeper with lots of wax to sell

Thanks again, Biff

Jaqy

 

[biffvernon]

Actually a tin of Beeswax goes a long way.

Alternatively you could use a liquid form that you just paint on. It's beeswax thinned with an excess of turpentine:

 

[Tom]

Oo, yes, the liquid stuff looks just the job. I'll get that on order tomorrow.

Whilst I've got your attention, would you recommend the same treatment for my oak beams? They're quite wormy. In fact, the ones that had lost their integrity were used to make the frames for the room doors and wardbrobe doors, so you can see them on the picture I attached. Would I still need to apply Linseed Oil or would it not dry because I couldn't get it thin enough? Would I be better just using Liquid Wax and buffing it with a large brush? I have an awful lot to do, so a simple method would be good :roll: Thanks again

Jaqy

 

[skier-hughes]

http://periodproperty.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10515&p=124739&hilit=oil+oak#p124739

To remind you of colour difference

On the old oak beams the colour change was varied between hardly any to dramatic.

 

[Tom]

Thanks, Skier-Hughes. I'd completely forgotton I'd asked this before!!

It's also reminded me that I promised FamilyWiggs a picture of the latches when they were fitted. I've got one on at the moment, so I must go and get a picture and get it posted.

Thanks again

Jaqy

 

[skier-hughes]

I remembered posting pics, made me laugh when I found them and it was for you

 

[biffvernon]

Whatever you do it's always worth starting on a corner where it doesn't matter to see if you like the effect.

The liquid wax stuff will probably not have the colour changing effect that oil can sometimes have on old timber.

 

[Moo]

The liquid wax stuff will probably not have the colour changing effect that oil can sometimes have on old timber.

Biff - could you explain why you recommend the use of oil prior to waxing?

 

[biffvernon]

Dunno really, it just seems to work, at least on new planed smooth oak. Looks nice to my eye. I'd go cautiously on old oak until you're sure the colour is what you want.