What to paint outside with

[Liz Fry]

I have an interesting scenario whereby half of my house is three hundred years old and built of stone......and the other half which is only 30 years old build of "modern" materials. I am in the process of scraping off flaking paint from both sides and now I`m stumped what to do with

a) the missing paint patches on the old side.........how do I level up the patches
b) what do I use to paint with.............. I had wanted to use the Jasmine White Dulux Weathershield however after spending months removing the cement render from the inside of the cottage and thereby sorting many of the damp problems out...... I am reluctant to put the Dulux on the old side........ but then that would mean a different paint and differences in the shades of paint.............. I don`t really want a line down the middle of the cottage. Would limewash be suitable for the whole house or will I get problems with the cement render on the new half if I use limewash on it............?

Can anyone help?????

 

[Liz Fry]

See attached for pictures of the inside of the old house.

 

[middi]

If you have cement based render which you do not wish to remove you can apply modern type paints with no ill effect, the older section of the building , if not " hard" rendered, should only be repointed ( repaired ?) with lime mortar and lime washed. You can certainly use limewash on the modern part of the building from a purely aesthetic point of view therefore keeping to a single colour scheme.

 

[Moo]

And that marks the end of this particular thread.

When Middi speaks, the rest of us can do little more than listen with respect.

 

[Nemesis]

Of course, limewash might not stick to the cement.

 

[middi]

External limewash is a short lived covering to start with, it will need to be re-applied yearly in order to maintain it's "crisp" look, if applied to smooth inpervious substrata's it will obviously " wash off" faster.

 

[andrew gayton]

Middi - My house was limewashed 5 years ago and still looks as crisp and bluey white as the day it was applied. The walling is brick and flint - you can't get more impermeable than flint.

 

[Nemesis]

It's trial and error on cement:

Can I limewash onto a cement based render or coating?
Limewash works best on backgrounds with a moderate to high level of suction, i.e. other lime mortars or coatings, sandstones and softer fired bricks. However limewashes with additives are available from specialist suppliers which will provide an improved bond with more difficult or low suction backgrounds. Specialist advice should always be sought with regards to their correct specification.

http://www.scotlime.org/faq.asp

 

[middi]

Middi - My house was limewashed 5 years ago and still looks as crisp and bluey white as the day it was applied. The walling is brick and flint - you can't get more impermeable than flint.

I am sure, Andrew, that very few owners limewash their houses every year ( if any at all), every 5 years would be recoccomended though, so get your brushes ready :wink:

 

[Gervase]

Add a bit of linseed oil or tallow to the wash and it will last longer and stick better to non-porous substrates. One of our chimney stacks is cement-rendered blockwork (Ssh, don't tell anyone!) and the limewash has stayed on, intact, for three years now, while the other chimney - built from dressed slate - is beginning to look a little tatty.
One thing that will knacker limewash is lichen or algae on the substrate. I find it useful to give everything one weak coat and then wait a week or so - all the lichen and algae will be plainly visible so you can set to with Dettol or similar and a wire brush and get rid of it. If you don't, it will grow through your lovingly-applied multiple coats of limewash in a matter of months