I own a barn (actually a pig sty!) conversion the beams of which are in a really bad state. They had suffered in the past from woodworm infestation, and are peppered in holes and track marks. They are currently stained light brown, but are in dire need of decoration. I don't think sanding is an option, so I'm left with painting of some sort. Originally, I didn't want to paint them black, but I think it is the only option. The trouble is filling the badly damaged surfaces. Is there a paint that will fill the surfaces? I don't care if the surface texture of the wood is lost, as I'm sure it's only a softwood (the timbers are 3"x6") and not oak.
- Thread starter bucksfizz
- Start date
Nemesis
Member
- Messages
- 9,402
- Location
- Planet Earth
Limewash?
I'm currently limewashing a tie-beam, and here are a couple of sample photos for the 1st coat.
1st coat after 1 day
Upclose minor worm damage
The beam is clad with moulded boards which have minor worm damage, and plastered underneath onto lath.
The limewash has started to fill the worm holes, but as you can see they damage is hardly noticable anyway. If you want to tidy up your beams I would think you'd need to clean them up and use a filler before painting.
earthBorn do casein fillers and natural emulsion paints that may be useful, although I've not tried these myself (yet) just researching for future use.
I'd be inclined to go with Nemesis's advice and just limewash, so you keep the 'patina of age' and character of your beams. Limewash should go into timber OK, providing it's not been given a waterproof coating of varnish or paint. You'll need to remove the varnish/paint or at least sand to give a good key first.
1st coat after 1 day
Upclose minor worm damage
The beam is clad with moulded boards which have minor worm damage, and plastered underneath onto lath.
The limewash has started to fill the worm holes, but as you can see they damage is hardly noticable anyway. If you want to tidy up your beams I would think you'd need to clean them up and use a filler before painting.
earthBorn do casein fillers and natural emulsion paints that may be useful, although I've not tried these myself (yet) just researching for future use.
I'd be inclined to go with Nemesis's advice and just limewash, so you keep the 'patina of age' and character of your beams. Limewash should go into timber OK, providing it's not been given a waterproof coating of varnish or paint. You'll need to remove the varnish/paint or at least sand to give a good key first.
Lady_Mari
Member
- Messages
- 77
- Location
- Up a hill in Suffolk
We used this product once when we needed to fill an area on a beam that had rotted away. Afterwards you couldn't tell the difference from the real wood.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=A336148&ts=28332&id=52768
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=A336148&ts=28332&id=52768
Thanks for all the replies. I had considered cladding the beams, but on the longer runs (e.g. living room) they dip in the middle slightly, meaning that any wood would have to be planed accurately. I like the idea of the filler for the worst parts, as some of the timber is badly eaten away.
Most of the beams are like this:
I don't know anything about lime wash, so I'll have to do some research.
If I were to go for black, what would be the best product?
I don't know anything about lime wash, so I'll have to do some research.
If I were to go for black, what would be the best product?
Most of the beams are like this:
I don't know anything about lime wash, so I'll have to do some research.
If I were to go for black, what would be the best product?
I don't know anything about lime wash, so I'll have to do some research.
If I were to go for black, what would be the best product?
http://bucksfizz.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album01&id=beam2
http://bucksfizz.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album01&id=beam1
(I believe you can get the images to appear here but I can't do it due to myphotoalbum restrictions. Bucksfizz, you should be able to do this if you follow the instructions on the site.)
http://bucksfizz.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album01&id=beam1
(I believe you can get the images to appear here but I can't do it due to myphotoalbum restrictions. Bucksfizz, you should be able to do this if you follow the instructions on the site.)
ian
Member
- Messages
- 73
- Location
- North Essex
Pretty rough :roll:
Blackboard paint, International brand etc, is so matt that the rough surface seems to receed. It's also quite thick to smooth out the surface.
Blackboard paint, International brand etc, is so matt that the rough surface seems to receed. It's also quite thick to smooth out the surface.
skier-hughes
Member
- Messages
- 3,414
- Location
- Staffs, UK
You should see mine if you think that's rough.
Mine are staying as they are, and if those were mine they'd be staying like that and I'd be pleased they looked so good!!!!
Mine are staying as they are, and if those were mine they'd be staying like that and I'd be pleased they looked so good!!!!
Nemesis
Member
- Messages
- 9,402
- Location
- Planet Earth
I'de be very wary of painting them black, It will be impossible to get off rough beams in future, can be dark, and it could look like a pub.
borischarlton
Member
- Messages
- 71
- Location
- Highworth
I am definitley with Mr Hughes, I would be well happy if mine were that good!!
I am in the very slow process of getting the black paint off and it is impossible to get them back to origonal. Its my aim not to do anything to the house that is not reversable. Fashions, tastes and owners change and if I had a pound for every time I curse the previous owner!!
I am in the very slow process of getting the black paint off and it is impossible to get them back to origonal. Its my aim not to do anything to the house that is not reversable. Fashions, tastes and owners change and if I had a pound for every time I curse the previous owner!!
Again, thank you all so much for your comments. I was very wary of painting the beams black, and all the advice seems to be: DON'T! What really struck home was the comment from Nemesis that they'll look like a pub...
I shall endeavour to make good the really rough parts, and not do anything irreversible.
I shall endeavour to make good the really rough parts, and not do anything irreversible.
What to do with beams seems to be a common question and I'm wondering the same.
My beams are generally in a good condition though two have been involved in a small fire and have been burnt. They are currently covered in matt black paint which hides the burnt beams but does make the room look dark. Unfortunately the beams are a long way apart (700mm to 780mm) which gives a rather flexible floor upstairs. As we are going to rebuild the walls that support them (modern badly constructed block) the plan was to add in some additional beams to match those currently in place. The question is how to finish them all off.
Option 1: Remove the black from the current beams, sand the burnt ones back to bare wood and then finish the old and new beams with wax or similar. This will be a lot of work, I don't like the idea of sanding the burnt beams and the new beams will never match the old beams.
Option 2: Leave the old beams and paint the new beams black. Easy solution, but will leave the room looking dark.
Option 3: Paint the old and the new beams white. Lime wash is an option but it won't cover the black well so I was thinking of white egg shell or similar.
What do people think?
My beams are generally in a good condition though two have been involved in a small fire and have been burnt. They are currently covered in matt black paint which hides the burnt beams but does make the room look dark. Unfortunately the beams are a long way apart (700mm to 780mm) which gives a rather flexible floor upstairs. As we are going to rebuild the walls that support them (modern badly constructed block) the plan was to add in some additional beams to match those currently in place. The question is how to finish them all off.
Option 1: Remove the black from the current beams, sand the burnt ones back to bare wood and then finish the old and new beams with wax or similar. This will be a lot of work, I don't like the idea of sanding the burnt beams and the new beams will never match the old beams.
Option 2: Leave the old beams and paint the new beams black. Easy solution, but will leave the room looking dark.
Option 3: Paint the old and the new beams white. Lime wash is an option but it won't cover the black well so I was thinking of white egg shell or similar.
What do people think?
Nemesis
Member
- Messages
- 9,402
- Location
- Planet Earth
Option three!
alice
Member
- Messages
- 247
- Location
- 1 foot in Texas, 1 foot in Suffolk
I agree with option three. Paint them all white.
It'll make the room seem much taller and airier and the new beams will blend in better with the old. Another consideration is that you don't know how far the charing has discolored the burnt wood and you could be sanding quite a bit off to get past it.
alice
It'll make the room seem much taller and airier and the new beams will blend in better with the old. Another consideration is that you don't know how far the charing has discolored the burnt wood and you could be sanding quite a bit off to get past it.
alice