Welding cast iron to repair broken door plate? (photo)

[inwood]

I have a door handle with elaborate backing plate (A Kenrick & Sons), picture below. Unfortunately whilst cleaning it my father dropped it and this was closely followed by a ping as the fleur de lys from the top broke off.

As it's cast iron I know it can be difficult to weld. I've had a quote for cast iron weld but at £165+vat! I'm sure there's a cheaper alternative given the area to weld is the same size as my finger nail.

Any ideas?

 

[Tom]

Could you bond it with resin, rather than welding? It might give you a neater repair, too.

Jaqy

 

[Andrew Bodenham]

A welded repair would be the best option. I'd try my local garage, followed by ormanental ironworkers (gates, railings etc.), but I guess it depends what's available in your area.

If you can't get it welded you could try an epoxy resin bodge. Araldite is now available in a version formulated for metal repairs, and might do the trick. (Did you know that the adhesive is named after Araldite, the Greek goddess of bodging?)

Failing that, you could drill an extra fixing hole in the broken piece (and a matching one at the other end) and secure it to the door independently. Paint over the screws, and the crack, and it'll look like it's always been there.

 

[inwood]

Andrew your suggestion of using an epoxy resin has given me a thought. I repaired a toilet screw (long story!) by boring a small hole into the separated parts and then using epxoy resin and a small nail to join the pieces. Its invisible and relatively strong. I might give that a try.

 

[Nemesis]

I think a spot of Araldite would be the best option here also. Put something across the back (small tin strip or similar) for added strength and once on the door you won't notice.

Welding cast iron is not easy, or cheap.

 

[Penners]

I've had a quote for cast iron weld but at £165+vat!

He's taking the p*ss. He's probably very busy already and doesn't really need the work.

I think your welding idea is still probably the ideal repair, so it might be a good plan to shop around a bit. But if it still looks prohibitive, this product might interest you. I've never tried it but it purports to do what you want.

 

[Nemesis]

We clasic car buffs swear by Araldite - I know people who have put rods through the block and put the bit back with Araldite and carried on motoring.

If something can be put behind to 'stitch' as well as on the broken surfaces I think it will do the job.

 

[Penners]

We clasic car buffs swear by Araldite - I know people who have put rods through the block and put the bit back with Araldite and carried on motoring.

Presumably with nice squidgy piston rings that will hop over the glue lines in the cylinder face!

 

[Nemesis]

No, but it's useful at times - core plugs are mended in situ with it. I think it's worth trying on the door plate - welding cast iron can be difficult. If it's non-load bearing it's worth a try.

If you really want it welded, try some of the vintage car places, I'm sure it won't be that sort of cost!

Here's some interesting stuff about cast iron welding:

http://www.castironwelding.co.uk/londonbridge.html


(well it is to me!!)

 

[Nemesis]

Actually, there's other interesting stuff on that site too, although I love Tower Bridge and am delighted that it's being repaired as well. Wish they would paint it in its original colours though. The red white and blue is recentish - Queen's Jubillee I think.

http://www.castironwelding.co.uk/Moseley_Road_Baths.html

http://www.castironwelding.co.uk/casestudies.html

 

[Nemesis]

Yes - 1977. Before that it was chocolate brown.

http://www.towerbridge.org.uk/TowerBridge/English/BridgeHistory/


I have a whole heap of pics of the internal stuff - pity it's not steam operated any longer.

Hydraulics by Armstrongs of Newcastle, original concept Horace Jones. Early steel framing.

 

[piper]

If you don't like the idea of having something stuck together with araldite, and therefore imperfect (as a former classicist I like the Greek goddess idea, Andrew, nice one!), you could consider using the original as a pattern for a new iron casting - might cost you more than the weld, but you'd feel it was more worth it! Somewhere like the Ironbridge Gorge Museum would do it. Or you could stoke up a backyard foundry and do one yourself in lead or aluminium. :wink:

 

[Penners]

Only one small detail - the re-cast version (in iron) would smaller than the original on a scale of 1/8 inch per foot.

Sorry about the old-fogey Imperial measurements, but that's how I remember it from my engineering apprenticeship, shortly after the invention of the wheel.