Waxing oak beams

[Philip]

I have applied a mixture of pure turpentine and beeswax, in no great scientific proportions, to my beams.(it is hard to measure grated wax against a liquid). It was the consistency of a semi-set jelly, I was able to brush it on, but it was far from "liquid".

At what stage might you expect the fumes to die down, two weeks on and it is still "heady" in the room, you wouldn't want to stay in the room for any length of time.

Have I added too much turpentine? Do all turpentines have a strong odour? The surface is still slightly tacky.

Any advice gratefully received, as there are more beams to do and I dont want to have to sit in the kitchen for Christmas.

 

[Penners]

The usual mix for beeswax/turpentine polish is 50/50 (no need to be too exact). You just grate the beeswax into the turpentine, then leave the mix in a warm place (eg: airing cupboard) for a couple of days for the wax to dissolve. You must use real, pure turpentine - not turps substitute.

If you think you've got too much turpentine in the mix, just leave the pot open to the air for a while, to allow some of it to flash off (thus creating rather expensive vapour!).

Yes, turpentine does have a very strong smell - many people (including me) rather like it!

I must say that I'm a bit surprised that the turps smell is still strong, and the wax still sticky after two weeks. Did you use considerably more turps than wax?

Did you put the polish on to bare wood? If so, then a lot of it may have soaked in, thus prolonging the drying time.

Have a go at buffing a small area, to see whether it will take a shine yet. That might help the drying process (but I'm in guessing territory now).

 

[middi]

Ideally bees wax should be baffed on to beams with a cloth and the wax being just about malleable as to be scooped up by the cloth.
Unfortunately on old oak beams this is not always possible due to old worm holes, splintery or very uneven surfaces. If a lot of turpentine has been added to the wax to facilitate application with a brush, the excess wax should still be removed or " sponged up " with a cloth.

If the " exess" turpentine has penetrate deep into the wood ( as it does), unless there is a very good ventilation/extraction of the "fumes" the smell will linger on for a while (especially in winter !!).

Another point to remember is that tupentine will also dissolve other dissolvable particles which existed on or a bit deeper on the wood surface.

Not to worry, it will be fine ( in the spring :wink: )

 

[biffvernon]

The Liberon tin of beeswax with turpentine is pretty stiff - you certainly could not brush it on. I would guess it is mostly wax with just a very little turpentine to make it soft enough to be rubbed on with a cloth.

 

[Andrew Bodenham]

I have great admiration for those who make their own polishes and waxes. I'm afraid I tend to take the easy option and slap on something out of a tin. Osmo Top-Oil would be my potion of choice - low odour, quick drying, doesn't darken the wood too much

 

[Philip]

Thanks for all the advice. From the general nature of the replies, I reckon I have overdone the turps. The beams are very dry and rough, being in a converted barn, they have not been lovingly cared for in the past. I dont think there would be much chance of rubbing on a fairly solid wax.

I did buff the surface a little last night and the cloth became liberaly covered in wax. The smell is going slowly but it is hardly the weather for flinging the windows open. Maybe Ill wait till Spring to do the rest of the timber.

 

[Penners]

I did buff the surface a little last night and the cloth became liberaly covered in wax.

In which case I agree - I think you've sloshed in too much turps. I'm afraid you'll just have to wait for it to flash off. You may be able to expeditethe process a bit by rubbing over everything with clean, dry cotton cloths.